Forty Below Zero Deuce

[SasquatchSanta]

Following are some pictures of one of my latest projects

After doing some research on the standard military arctic engine heater I came to a personal conclusion that the military unit is a little too complex for my liking. I like simplicity and sometimes, <personal> there are other, non-military options that are simpler.

I bought the unsulated battery box pictured below from Don Bagwell at Spruce Military Surplus. I removed the angle iron mounting brackets on the bottom and placed a piece of used sheet metal in the botom so the M35 batteries and heater blankets would have a level foundtion. The original box has insulation in the bottom and has raised ribs to hold the bottom insulation on place. The manufacturer of the heater pads recommends the pads lay on a flat steel surface therefore the bottom insulation had to go.

My Buddy John Bizal at Midwest Military wised me up as to how he had modified the boxes by installing the brackets, latches etc., from the standard M35 battery tub. John's motive for the modification was to keep mud out of the standard box. My motive is cold weather. The pictures tell the rest of the story. The end result is a secure, insulated battery box with two 60 watt heaters that the batteries sit on. Plug in the heater pads for a couple of hours before start-up and you've got warm batteries.

This is the fourth phase of that I'm calling Project Forty Below.

The first three phases involved getting rid of the standard water pump fan and replacing it with an electric fan. Without a way to control the fan, engine temps had a hard time getting above 125 degrees on cold days. See: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index....opic&t=5873&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=20.
Second, came a freeze plug block heater then a float battery charger.

When the new LDS-1A engine is installed it will be equipped with electric heater pads on the oil pan and a second freeze plug block heater. I've been hauling around a 3,500 watt generator for the past year so if need be, if no plug-in is available, I'm self sufficient.

I hope to also install a pre-lube system with the new engine. If anyone has a solution please PM me.

 

[cranetruck]

......... I've been hauling around a 3,500 watt generator for the past year so if need be, if no plug-in is available, I'm self sufficient.

I hope to also install a pre-lube system with the new engine. If anyone has a solution please PM me.

This kind of project is right up my alley.

Dosen't the "arctic" battery compartment have provision for coolant hook-up?
Is the genset to start at 40 below or do you keep it indoors?

I have familirized myself with the fuel burning heater for the past couple of weeks and think it's the greatest for heating the engine and personnel compartment. The plumbing may be cumbersome, but not really that complex.
I'm doing it for the 8x8, so there is more space availble, I grant you that (see image).

My hand operated pre-lube system works too, but needs more testing.

 

[Rattlehead]

Bjorn, yes the powerplant heater kit's battery box has a plate that sits under the batteries and coolant circulates through it. The coolant heater goes in the standard battery location on a deuce, coolant exits from it and into the engine, then returns from the engine and goes through the insulated battery box under the passenger seat, then back to the heater. The exhaust from the heater goes to a metal box that encloses the front oil pan sump. Very good use of the BTU's; heating coolant, oil, and the batteries to get the voltage up.

I have this kit, MOSTLY installed now, but need either a new coolant heater or one for parts.

 

[Rattlehead]

That picture of the heater installed vertically is interesting. I guess they don't have to be installed horizontally?

 

[cranetruck]

The fuel control valve has an equalizer tube on it so that it can be installed either vertically or horizontally. Don't know which mounting does not need this equalizer tube, don't believe the pictures I have seen show it at all in either position (1969 TMs)....maybe an afterthought....

What part(s) do you need, I started with 4 units and have one running well now (shown in the above image), so there are parts for 3 units generally speaking.

This truck came from factory with mounting provisions for both the personnel and the coolant/oil pan heater, so it's just a matter of finding the parts, nothing has to be moved to make space for them.

 

[SasquatchSanta]

I should have mentioned in my origional post that aside from complexity concerns I also couldn't find a military heater kit.

Bjorn Sez:

[/quote]Dosen't the "arctic" battery compartment have provision for coolant hook-up?
Is the genset to start at 40 below or do you keep it indoors?

I believe the battery box I used was intended to be mounted under the passenger seat in a 5-ton. The original cable ports were in the bottom and there was no sign of a heating device. Yes ... the 3500 watt generator that is now bolted to the cargo bed area is for those times when the truck is outside, away from an elecrtical plug in --- like in the woods or after spending a few days in an airport parking lot.

My big concern now is finding a pre-lube system in a kit form. I'd like to go with an electrical system so the turbo will have juice while it's winding down.

 

[cranetruck]

.....I'd like to go with an electrical system so the turbo will have juice while it's winding down.

If you let the engine idle for a few minutes, that problem should be solved. Turbo shouldn't be spinning very fast then and the lube requirements should not be high (somebody correct me on this and/or provide numbers that would show a need for lubing when shut down from idle).

 

[ygmir]

That is a good project, one I've thought of, but, not gotten to.
I bought 3 NOS arctic cargo covers, the canvas with zip windows, etc, hood and grill blankets, fuel fired heaters for engine, cab, and troop areas, and exhaust system for the latter, hard top with insulation and extra insulation from a Gamma Goat kit, fording kits, etc.
I didn't think of the battery compartment, though...........
Now, I just need to get time to install all these wonderful things. I'll probably get to it in the summer......hahahaha........

 

[CCATLETT1984]

at far as shutting off a turbo'd engine, just be sure the EGT's are not high, not sure on the range for a deuce, but 300~400 F should be fine. thats mainly so you dont cook the oil inside the turbo when its shutdown.

 

[SasquatchSanta]

I knew that you should wait until the EGT cools down before shutting down but I've always assumed that even after running at idle for two or three minutes with cool EGTs the turbo continues to spin for three or four minutes after shutdown.

 

[cranetruck]

From idle, my turbo seems to come to a stop in perhaps 10 to 15 seconds, from the sound of it anyway....("D" turbo)

 

[SasquatchSanta]

Bjorn --- That's good to know.

I had never checked it. My assumptions have probably led me astray on the spin down time.

 

[JDToumanian]

From idle, my turbo seems to come to a stop in perhaps 10 to 15 seconds, from the sound of it anyway....

Mine too. If I don't get out of the truck quickly it will already be stopped. It's a c-turbo.

 

[Monty]

That is a good project, one I've thought of, but, not gotten to.
I bought 3 NOS arctic cargo covers, the canvas with zip windows, etc, hood and grill blankets, fuel fired heaters for engine, cab, and troop areas, and exhaust system for the latter, hard top with insulation and extra insulation from a Gamma Goat kit, fording kits, etc.
I didn't think of the battery compartment, though...........
Now, I just need to get time to install all these wonderful things. I'll probably get to it in the summer......hahahaha........

If your looking to sell one let me know, I've been all over and have'nt located one yet

Chad

 

[jeli]

Since we are both in Minnesota we might be able to tackle the preluber. I work for a pump company. We make two different pumps that will pump hot oil, 280 and 375 degrees depending on the model. They are used with AC powered C-faced motors. I do have access to a couple different 12 VDC motors but no 24 VDC. I don't have the time or space to tinker with a project like this but might be able to help with the components.

 

[SasquatchSanta]

I don't have the time of facilities to tinker either.

I think Lee Houde is or will be working on a pre-lube system.

Given what Lee and his family has recently gone through with the passing of his wife he has no doubt had other priorities.

Before installing my new LDS engine I'm going to plumb the oil pan for the pre-lube system's oil pickup so the system can be easily installed later. Hopefully sooner than later.

 

[maddawg308]

This is the fourth phase of that I'm calling Project Forty Below.

So, is it safe to say that you want to be in the running to compete in the Ice Road Truckers show next season?

 

[SasquatchSanta]

RE: Re: Forty Below Zero Deuce

maddawg308 sez:

So, is it safe to say that you want to be in the running to compete in the Ice Road Truckers show next season?

No --- I seriously doubt that but I have driven on the ice up here. In fact, until just recently an ice road to Lac Lacroix came through Crane Lake. In winters when we do't have a lot of snow, which insulates and therefore keeps the ice from thickening, driving on the ice isn't a problem. Just watch out for the pressure ridges and don't drive too fast. Oh Yeah --- if you're squimish keep the windows rolled down

 

[cranetruck]

........The original box has insulation in the bottom and has raised ribs to hold the bottom insulation on place. The manufacturer of the heater pads recommends the pads lay on a flat steel surface therefore the bottom insulation had to.......

Hi Ernie, do you have any further info on the type of insulation used? It's virtually impossible to find an arctic kit for the 8x8, so I'm using odd parts to make up for missing pieces.
I have some yellowish liner from an M923 battery box, but I think it's more for absorbing electrolyte spills.....

 

[sprucemt]

RE: Re: Forty Below Zero Deuce

The box that Ernie bought from me, normally mounts under the passenger seat. It should have a water heated, flat plate heater sitting on the bottom. That is what the extra holes are for. The flat plate heater is about 3/4" thick from what I remember and close to the same size as the bottom of the box. When I got these boxes, I had the chance to get 20 or so flat plate heaters but blew it off at the time. My mistake.