MEP802A water in crankcase

[kb3bf]

First I want to thank you for your valuable help and offering your knowledge on these generators, especially since you are taking away precious time from your family when doing so.

I understand the GI reason for cannibalizing parts when in the field, especially during combat.

The switch with the broken shaft is S6. I will try to replace S6 first and then S1 with the improved versions.
Unfortunately there are none on ebay at the moment. I am going back searching SS for past switch source info.

V5, the Varistor for the DC System, is at the bottom of the Resistor Bank, the itty-bitty red dot mounted on the ceramic white posts. (The original posts were snapped off).
I wonder what is used (V5) in the newer gen sets. Can anybody provide pictures, especially if there are product markings?
I am searching the web for +,- 75V MOV, possibly one capable of absorbing more energy than V5. If I can't find such a Varistor, I will replace it with a pair of 75V Si Avalanche diodes stacked back to back. There should be little difference loading wise to the circuit.

I was thinking of a new thread title called "Electronic Parts Replacements Info for the MEP-802A".
Now if I can find the instructions for setting up a new thread.

Any comments, especially if this info may be redundant and already exists elsewhere?

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy kb3bf,
I started a new thread Electronic Parts Replacement Info for the MEP-802A

Continue your quest there.

 

[kb3bf]

Many Thanks!!!
I will start posting as I collect data on the missing parts, like the Varistors, Freq. Trip Switch, Switches, diodes, Fuses, Circuit breaker etc
I hope many other will join in.
kb3bf

 

[Guyfang]

[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Try this part number, (V420LB0B) for V5, this thing can not be expensive. The army used the same V5 from day one until today, so no difference there.
[/FONT]
The blue stand off's, that the CR1 and V5 are soldered to, are very weak. If they are broken off, get new ones, or substitute something you feel is better. And use a HOT soldering iron, with lots of paste. DO NOT hold the soldering iron to the post very long. Or you will be replacing them again. The picture of the V5, looks like a cold solder to me. Need to check that out.

I understand the GI reason for cannibalizing parts when in the field, especially during combat.

I was speaking of everyday experience. Even in Garrison, the army treats deadlines like the plague. Down range it is even worse.