Flat tire

[Mike82ndABN]

Pinhole leak in the sidewall, likely from a thorn. Looks like I am going to be buying a new tire. I don't want to kill myself so I thought I would ask for help. I have read that I need to remove the valve core to make sure I have ambient air pressure, remove the 12 bolts, separate the two parts of the wheel, remove the tire, get the runflat insert out (this should be fun), put the insert into the new tire (more fun), then put it all together again.

The putting it back together process is what I need help with, do i use grease packs in there (i read that they are in there to reduce friction if you drive on the runflat), do I have to replace the o-ring and which one (red or black). And I read about 3 washers that get used as spacers on the bolts, and what about something to seal the bead? Torque values and double torque sequence seems straight forward. And what about balancing?

Once it is all together am I risking my life if I don't have a cage to air it up.

I'm in Tampa if anyone knows a good shop out here.

 

[DatGuyC]

I didnt use grease in mine when I reassembled them. It's only if you plan on driving the 30 miles at 30mph on the runflat, I'm not in a warzone, I'll just stop and replace with the spare. Oring depends on the style of 12 bolt wheel you have, the later style has an extra hole in the stud area for centering the wheel.

 

[wilmart01]

I'll replace the o-ring Saturday, i have small leak between the 2 piece wheel, I didn't know was that complicate.
i will take the truck to a big rig tire shop, we see what's happen.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Pinhole leak in the sidewall, likely from a thorn. Looks like I am going to be buying a new tire. I don't want to kill myself so I thought I would ask for help. I have read that I need to remove the valve core to make sure I have ambient air pressure, remove the 12 bolts, separate the two parts of the wheel, remove the tire, get the runflat insert out (this should be fun), put the insert into the new tire (more fun), then put it all together again.

The putting it back together process is what I need help with, do i use grease packs in there (i read that they are in there to reduce friction if you drive on the runflat), do I have to replace the o-ring and which one (red or black). And I read about 3 washers that get used as spacers on the bolts, and what about something to seal the bead? Torque values and double torque sequence seems straight forward. And what about balancing?

Once it is all together am I risking my life if I don't have a cage to air it up.

I'm in Tampa if anyone knows a good shop out here.

thats assuming you get the bead seated....I take mine down to a local shop and have them seat the bead and balance them for $20 a tire....also have them dunk the tire and look for leaks, this is how you will quickly tell if you tire is good and you installed the o-ring correctly.
Are you replacing the tire? If so...cut the side wall out of the tire with a sawzall, remove the sidewall and just lift out the runflat...this way you only have to install them....and have fun with that...lol

 

[Special T]

A spray bottle with hot very soapy water will tell you where any leaks are.

I have used a tube patch for small punctures in the sidewall from stuff like thorns and such on my wheeler. A tire dealer wont do it for you because of liability, but if your running the run flats I think the liability is minimal. Your milage may vary.

 

[darr3239]

One way to get a runflat out:

https://youtu.be/kmp9AQMuqZQ

 

[DatGuyC]

I used a 3" ratchet strap to compress the rubber run-flat after I removed the wheel halves. Wasn't really too bad honestly. After compression I used a pry bar to gently work it out of the tire.

 

[Mike82ndABN]

do you guys always replace the oring? i found a shop that will do the work, they service the county's hmmwvs but i dont think they have the oring sitting around.

 

[simp5782]

What size stud do you have? 3/4 or 5/8? A 15/16 socket will fit the 5/8 stud nuts.

 

[Special T]

If the o ring isnt too deformed youll be ok. If it is then you either need a new one or spend some time filling voids with rtv.

What I want to know is why would you hire some one to do a bolt together wheel? You likely have all the tools you need to DYI. A split rim sure but bolt together.

 

[Mike82ndABN]

When I take the old one apart tomorrow I may give reassembly a shot.

 

[Special T]

I would add that they arnt that espensive so you should have one or 2 it your supplies anyway.

 

[Mike82ndABN]

ok so i drank an energy drink earlier and was not able to contain myself, i just went outside and removed the wheel, separated the rim, and took a sawzall to the tire to get the runflat out.

I cut most of the way around the sidewall, much easier than cutting the bead area, then opened it like the lid on a garbage can and pulled the insert out.

I think the o-ring looks ok, its red and i am pretty sure this truck saw regular maintenance, it belonged to the S2.

19mm spark plug socket was deep enough and fit the 3/4in nuts perfectly.

 

[wilmart01]

Why do we have to remove the hole wheel of the truck just to replace the o-ring?
I'm thinking to starting get some tools and do my self.

 

[Mike82ndABN]

So are you guys using a bead sealer of some kind when you air these up or just soapy water?

 

[Special T]

Ive used everything from slightly watered down dish soap to murphies tire soap. I think it doesnt matter much on bolt together wheels myself.
Guys that use hummer wheels for wheeling will often use a sawzall to cut the run flat rib out of the runflat and reinstall. You still get the dual beadlock but you can air down more and they balance better.. better yet is some turned down sewer pipe cut in 2 pieces.

 

[Mike82ndABN]

I drove out and picked up a couple tires today, I figure having a spare around will be nice. Was able to get the runflat back in by using one ratchet strap (big 3 inch wide 5000lb) to squeeze it from an O shape into an oval. Then wedge as much of the oval into the tire as I could and then ran another ratchet strap around the outside of the tire and the top of the runflat that was still poking out. With some jumping and some prybar action, it fit right in.

I cleaned the bead areas on the tire and the rim, then cleaned the oring, bolted it all back up with a double torque sequence, sprayed with soapy water to check for leaks and all is well.

I didn't have to do anything to seat the bead, i guess the runflat is designed to give the bead enough support for the rim to seat against it.I didn't use bead sealer and I did use a tiny bit of tacky red lucas grease on the oring because it was dry after I cleaned it, hopefully it doesn't eat the rubber.

What are you guys torqueing those 12 bolts to? I went to 100, then 120.

Freaking scary airing them back up. Waiting for a boom.

 

[darr3239]

Sounds like you did it right Mike82ndABN per this: http://www.flashoffroad.com/Maintenance/wheels_tires/tirechange.htm

 

[donquijote]

Does anyone use the PVC inserts without the runflats? Or without runflats or beadlock insert all together if not lowering the tire pressure?

 

[Special T]

Ive never run with pvc but know people that do. They balance better and are easier to take in and out. I have run them with nothing in them. Its just like a standard 16.5tubeless wheel at that point.