FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[Skidpad]

Peakbagger, it ought to be easy to find it from that diagram. Now the question is about this 'inlet piping' and flushing it. Also, was the recommendation for the normal marvel mystery oil or the air tool version since this is for air lines?

FLU Farm, the lack of noticeable dampening on this thing makes me think I'm going to take a swing at the shocks first. From what I can tell, that ought to be manageable, much more so that doing the springs too. Euro-Truck has the Sachs shocks at what appears to be an acceptable price.

So, on to the results of the blood, sweat, and tears from today's work and troubleshooting:

1. I discovered why the buzzer and horn don't work, fuse is shot, of course that may mean that a new fuse will just short out too... any good sources you guys recommend for these GBC fuses?
2. I actually pulled the grease fitting apart on the loader while trying to do maintenance, so, do any of you kind folks know what size this 90 is? (many thanks for your patience as I am learning this new set of heavy machinery skills on the fly)

3. Most troubling part of the whole day - while I was digging a test pit for perk testing the hoe just lost all hydraulics, like instantly. I come to discover that the PTO had disengaged itself. It has a bit of a grinding sound when engaging although the clutch is fully depressed, but for it to completely disengage seems a bit worrisome. I was able to quickly re-engage it in order to restore hydraulic pressure and then I stowed the hoe and drove back uphill.
4. Chasing the air leak, chapter 2. I was able to back off the previously mentioned nut and install some Teflon tape to stop the leak at the bottom of the tee. Now, the nut below it is leaking air from the back. Is there a complete diagram of the air system from A-Z that details where everything is and what it does? I feel like this is going to be a fun week chasing the lea until air only discharges when over pressure. It is worth noting that although I have this leak, I continue to maintain primary air pressure @ the factory prescribed 106 psi and the brake air pressure will respond well over 30-40 psi when the pedal is depressed. What exactly is this valve below my leak? I'm starting to think I need to clean and purge the whole air system with all this talk about buildup, etc... Does air have anything to do with the PTO staying engaged? I wouldn't think so but...



4. I adjusted the parking brake and it will now hold against the hill but I can't help feeling that I'm pulling it out a couple of inches too much. I may see about pulling it out to see how long it measures vs how long it is supposed to be. Picture documentation of that procedure will be provided for reference and locations.

So, observations before serious diagnosis begins.
A. When the SEE was parked nose uphill, the boom would not raise but once I drove back onto level ground it would raise
B. Same orientation, nose uphill, the boom did not have enough guts to come back with enough force to engage the boom lock so I had to drive back uphill with the boom swaying precariously in the upright position. (This combined with the previously mentioned swaying of the ride made for a white knuckle bit of excitement). Again, once on level ground at the top of the hill, the boom had no issue coming back and going over center and I was able to store the boom in the travel lock position.

Any ideas guys? I really need to get these issues worked out before I jump into the quick attach because I have got lots of work to do to get this land ready by next spring. Building a house has it's own series of headaches and I need this little beast working to help me conquer them.

Thanks, I'm whipped today...

 

[Bikers33]

2. I actually pulled the grease fitting apart on the loader while trying to do maintenance, so, do any of you kind folks know what size this 90 is?

Standard 3/8 thread 90 degree grease fitting.

 

[Bikers33]

Peakbagger, it ought to be easy to find it from that diagram. Now the question is about this 'inlet piping' and flushing it. Also, was the recommendation for the normal marvel mystery oil or the air tool version since this is for air lines?

FLU Farm, the lack of noticeable dampening on this thing makes me think I'm going to take a swing at the shocks first. From what I can tell, that ought to be manageable, much more so that doing the springs too. Euro-Truck has the Sachs shocks at what appears to be an acceptable price.

So, on to the results of the blood, sweat, and tears from today's work and troubleshooting:

1. I discovered why the buzzer and horn don't work, fuse is shot, of course that may mean that a new fuse will just short out too... any good sources you guys recommend for these GBC fuses?
2. I actually pulled the grease fitting apart on the loader while trying to do maintenance, so, do any of you kind folks know what size this 90 is? (many thanks for your patience as I am learning this new set of heavy machinery skills on the fly)
View attachment 645643
3. Most troubling part of the whole day - while I was digging a test pit for perk testing the hoe just lost all hydraulics, like instantly. I come to discover that the PTO had disengaged itself. It has a bit of a grinding sound when engaging although the clutch is fully depressed, but for it to completely disengage seems a bit worrisome. I was able to quickly re-engage it in order to restore hydraulic pressure and then I stowed the hoe and drove back uphill.
4. Chasing the air leak, chapter 2. I was able to back off the previously mentioned nut and install some Teflon tape to stop the leak at the bottom of the tee. Now, the nut below it is leaking air from the back. Is there a complete diagram of the air system from A-Z that details where everything is and what it does? I feel like this is going to be a fun week chasing the lea until air only discharges when over pressure. It is worth noting that although I have this leak, I continue to maintain primary air pressure @ the factory prescribed 106 psi and the brake air pressure will respond well over 30-40 psi when the pedal is depressed. What exactly is this valve below my leak? I'm starting to think I need to clean and purge the whole air system with all this talk about buildup, etc... Does air have anything to do with the PTO staying engaged? I wouldn't think so but...

View attachment 645642

4. I adjusted the parking brake and it will now hold against the hill but I can't help feeling that I'm pulling it out a couple of inches too much. I may see about pulling it out to see how long it measures vs how long it is supposed to be. Picture documentation of that procedure will be provided for reference and locations.

So, observations before serious diagnosis begins.
A. When the SEE was parked nose uphill, the boom would not raise but once I drove back onto level ground it would raise
B. Same orientation, nose uphill, the boom did not have enough guts to come back with enough force to engage the boom lock so I had to drive back uphill with the boom swaying precariously in the upright position. (This combined with the previously mentioned swaying of the ride made for a white knuckle bit of excitement). Again, once on level ground at the top of the hill, the boom had no issue coming back and going over center and I was able to store the boom in the travel lock position.

Any ideas guys? I really need to get these issues worked out before I jump into the quick attach because I have got lots of work to do to get this land ready by next spring. Building a house has it's own series of headaches and I need this little beast working to help me conquer them.

Thanks, I'm whipped today...

And don't apply more than 5psi air pressure to the axles, you'll blow the seals on your portals and then you're in a heap of s##t.

 

[peakbagger]

I used the air tool oil. But as I stated, I cannot get the air line off so not sure how well its flushed.

My PTO lever likes to pop out on occasion. I have a piece of firewood that I push up against it when engaged so it doesn't pop out.

I have mixed luck getting the boom lock engaged, sometimes I get it first time other times I just cant get it to go and then use the stabilizer to pop it in place (rotate boom all the way left then raise the stabilizer to force the boom back to engage the boom lock). .

 

[peakbagger]

On completely different note, Anyone locate a source for a SEE muffler?. I have crack in the vertical piping heading up to the spark suppressor but getting at it may require trashing the muffler.

Worse case is maybe this is an excuse to buy a Tig Rig and fab one up

 

[Skidpad]

Peakbagger, thanks for the good information, I was worried that it popping out of gear was some kind of 'oh $**t!' moment and that I was about to have catastrophic tranny failure or something. The good news is that the cooling fans worked great throughout the afternoon.

In regards to keeping the psi @ 5 for braking, it's more like it momentarily jumps to 30-ish and then comes right back down to around 5. Is there a valve that regulates the amount of air going to the air over hydraulic system? I'm going to keep chasing the air leak and may break down and take a few of the components off to try and really clean everything out. I've gotten some of the mystery air tool oil so we'll see how this goes.

Thanks!

 

[BigBison]

I come to discover that the PTO had disengaged itself. It has a bit of a grinding sound when engaging although the clutch is fully depressed, but for it to completely disengage seems a bit worrisome.

I can't help you with the disengaging, but I did read a trick somewhere (maybe this thread) on engaging the PTO without grinding. First, back the motor down to idle. Second, with transfer case in neutral, put the shifter in first gear, then engage PTO, then put the gear selector back in N. I haven't experienced PTO-engagement-grinding since I started doing it this way.

 

[Bikers33]

GP will note whether the seatbelt is functional, during their inspection report, but fail to note most issues any of us have with these "truck/equipment machines". Once again, you guys have inspired me to add another page to my "to do" list

opcorn:

 

[The FLU farm]

And now for something completely different (I'll try to answer you questions this evening, Skidpad).

Good news everyone! Or at least for those of us craving a wall chart.
General Hood is currently home-bound with what he claims are really nice, laminated, poster size schematics for the SEE.
Some may have a bit of drool on them (he says they really are nice), but being laminated that's no biggie.

 

[Bikers33]

And now for something completely different (I'll try to answer you questions this evening, Skidpad).

Good news everyone! Or at least for those of us craving a wall chart.
General Hood is currently home-bound with what he claims are really nice, laminated, poster size schematics for the SEE.
Some may have a bit of drool on them (he says they really are nice), but being laminated that's no biggie.

Hook me up!!!!

 

[The FLU farm]

Hook me up!!!!

I'll let Mr. Hood sort that part out.
But, we should also be grateful that Scott (of EI fame) spotted this lot and made its existence known.
Guess I need to order something to show my gratitude.

 

[BigBison]

If I can get my hands on the SEE wiring diagram (want one), I'd just need one for the HMMH. Was there a separate chart for each FLU, or do the ones General Hood scored swing both ways, like the TM's?

 

[General Hood]

On completely different note, Anyone locate a source for a SEE muffler?. I have crack in the vertical piping heading up to the spark suppressor but getting at it may require trashing the muffler.

Worse case is maybe this is an excuse to buy a Tig Rig and fab one up

I asked the GP on site rep about all the crushed mufflers on the SEEs. Seems Uncle Sam used a large fork loader to pick these out of the woods, and anything vulnerable, such as muffler or air tank paid the price. Wish I knew a source, I need one as well

 

[General Hood]

And now for something completely different (I'll try to answer you questions this evening, Skidpad).

Good news everyone! Or at least for those of us craving a wall chart.
General Hood is currently home-bound with what he claims are really nice, laminated, poster size schematics for the SEE.
Some may have a bit of drool on them (he says they really are nice), but being laminated that's no biggie.

Here's the Mrs holding a copy. They are 27X30 Gov issue. I marked up the photograph, like a cancelled check

 

[BigBison]

I asked the GP on site rep about all the crushed mufflers on the SEEs. Seems Uncle Sam used a large fork loader to pick these out of the woods, and anything vulnerable, such as muffler or air tank paid the price. Wish I knew a source, I need one as well

All this is good to know. I was up at my property the other day, popped my '70 BMW 2800CS open and found plenty of field-mouse damage -- made me think of rat-infested Unimogs! I'll be using the HMMH to build a quonset hut large enough to fit my vehicles to get them out of the weather, and inside an area I can control for rodents. Prolly get a few barn cats, leave the windows rolled down on the stored vehicles... I've never had a rodent-damaged vehicle before, but it would seem I have more than one now!

It's the badgers on my land who need to be somehow convinced to move on. The one-foot-diameter holes on my land tell a tale of big badgers. My malamute went after one the other day, stuck her snout down the hole after it... the badger "butted" her snout up against the rock it dug the hole under, she pulled out, ripping a big chunk of skin off the top of her snout in the process. Poor doggie! A skunk taught her to leave them alone last year, but apparently all porcupines and badgers must be destroyed on sight, regardless of how many times she loses!

Should I get another dog, or another shotgun?

Anyway, I'll be using the forklift on the HMMH to move my BMW, but not until I've crawled under it and figured out how to make that lift without damaging the car! Worth $7.5K in parts now, despite not running for 18 years.

 

[The FLU farm]

On completely different note, Anyone locate a source for a SEE muffler?. I have crack in the vertical piping heading up to the spark suppressor but getting at it may require trashing the muffler.

Worse case is maybe this is an excuse to buy a Tig Rig and fab one up

Not to deprive you from buying a TIG, but why not look at one of the larger exhaust companies' web site and pick something suitable? I'd guess it's a pretty basic muffler. Or, get a band clamp and cover the crack - one of the nice wide ones, like they use on trucks.

Along the same lines (aiming at Skidpad here), since we're not fine tuning the SEE for the best possible lap times on the track, I think almost any shock that fits would work fine. Since I haven't measured them I don't know what to look for yet, but as long as the ID of the eyes is the same size or larger (easy to sleeve them) and the compressed length isn't any longer than stock, a basic semi trailer shock should work.
Of course, now I can't remember if they also serve to limit axle droop, and if that's the case they can't be much longer than stock.
Either way, Monroe and others should have the measurements on the web, so that's where I'd start my shock hunt.

Oh, and Skidpad, if you find suitable shocks before I do, and they work, I'll copy your part numbers. **** of a deal, huh?

 

[BigBison]

Should I get another dog, or another shotgun?

Or maybe a flexible exhaust hose for the Mogs. The old salts hereabouts, tell me they run exhaust host from the tailpipe of their tractors, into the holes of the badgers they want to convince to relocate. With a big diesel motor rumbling on the top of their den, plus a hose running into it, apparently the badgers think "there goes the neighborhood," so yet another use for a FLU!

I've never dealt with badgers before, so it came as a surprise to me that the big 'uns can actually f*** up my malamute!

 

[Skidpad]

Euro-Truck in GA shows the muffler on their website. I talked to Shaun down there today about something else but he seems very informed about the SEE tractor. I bet that Scott @ EI has them or can get them too. Then again, as long as you know the relative performance necessary out of the muffler I have to agree that there's probably a lot that could work. It's interesting to find this out about the pipes. When I was under it this weekend I wondered how that had gotten crimped but it's not so bad that it's impacting performance that I can tell.

FLU Farm, I'll definitely share the results of all this suspension nonsense. I'll even post my laps times around Mid-Ohio...

 

[Bikers33]

Euro-Truck in GA shows the muffler on their website. I talked to Shaun down there today about something else but he seems very informed about the SEE tractor. I bet that Scott @ EI has them or can get them too. Then again, as long as you know the relative performance necessary out of the muffler I have to agree that there's probably a lot that could work. It's interesting to find this out about the pipes. When I was under it this weekend I wondered how that had gotten crimped but it's not so bad that it's impacting performance that I can tell.



FLU Farm, I'll definitely share the results of all this suspension nonsense. I'll even post my laps times around Mid-Ohio...

What are ya building a RACE-FLU? Cheap-ass tractor muffler from tractor supply is all that's needed.... unless lap times are important.

 

[The FLU farm]

What are ya building a RACE-FLU? Cheap-ass tractor muffler from tractor supply is all that's needed.... unless lap times are important.

With all the other noises a SEE produces, I'm not even sure they need a muffler.
If my exhaust gets creamed, it'll likely become a side exhaust, with or without a muffler. More convenient hookup for critter holes, too.