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Mep 803 exhaust pipe/extension

fpchief

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I want to vent my exhaust out and away from the little shelter i will be building over it. It will not be fully enclosed however i would still not want the hot gas going directly into the cover. Is there a known source of supply for the correct pipe?
Kip

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Light in the Dark

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You can use regular black iron pipe for this (its an NPT fitting). I forget if its 1" or 1.25" off the top of my head, but you just need a BI coupler and whatever length you want to extend the stack by.
 

Light in the Dark

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Is it a good idea or bad idea to insulate pipe as well?
I would say it depends on clearances (like a wood stove chimney). You will definitely need to fab up a pass through box (or find something for a pellet stove and adapt it) so you are far enough away from combustible materials. YMMV
 

fpchief

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This run will be only a couple of feet. Building the shelter down close to the top of the generator. Will make it fairly nice and conducive to my house...same shingles on it...etc. now i am thinking about moving it, taking blocks out and building a wood platform under it like another member did.

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eatont9999

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I plan on running mine straight up, horizontal, pass through shop wall, and up again. I will put a rain cap on the end. My goal is to avoid putting a hole in roof so I don't have to worry about water leaks. I want the output exhaust up and away from the shop wall so soot does not deposit all over the outside wall. I'm also going to put a union joint about a foot off the generator in case I need to service the unit, I don't have to disassemble the whole pipe run. If condensate is a concern for you, add a T at a 90 bend and cap the bottom after a short length of pipe. Water will collect there and evaporate next time the pipe heats up. I don't see condensate as an issue for me. If it were a gas engine, I would expect more condensate.
 

Dwnorton1

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A drip leg and union like you are describing is a great idea. I have read threads about using a flexible exhaust section just so you don't pass vibration into full exhaust stack.
 

rosco

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I would sure use regular exhaust pipe for your extension. Schedule 40 water pipe is real heavy, especially when you start adding fittings like a union. Your Genney may be much smoother then my trusty MEP003, but it still shakes some, especially on start up or shut down. I used the 2 hole flanges often seen on Hot Rods, for disconnects. Sorry I can't find my pictures due to recently jumbled system here, but I've posted pictures of it before.
 

eatont9999

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Dwnorton1, you have a really good idea there. I would hate for the exhaust flange to crack due to the weight of the pipe and the engine vibrations. A situation that is ripe for something failing somewhere over time.

As for regular exhaust tubing, I would need to compare the cost against iron pipe. I like the idea of a lighter weight run, though.
 

boatman69

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Cape Coral, Fl
I went with inch and a quarter 304 stainless. 3 inch nipple two couplings and a threaded cap. Merit brass on Amazon dirt cheap. Walker inch and 3/4 rain cap also Amazon cheap. I leave the exhaust completely capped off until it's time to run then unscrew the cap and screw on the rain cap that's attached to a coupling. The couplings are perfectly round and smooth almost looked machined but they are not.
 

eatont9999

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DFW, Texas
I went with inch and a quarter 304 stainless. 3 inch nipple two couplings and a threaded cap. Merit brass on Amazon dirt cheap. Walker inch and 3/4 rain cap also Amazon cheap. I leave the exhaust completely capped off until it's time to run then unscrew the cap and screw on the rain cap that's attached to a coupling. The couplings are perfectly round and smooth almost looked machined but they are not.

Pics and part numbers if you have them, please.
 

fpchief

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Location
South Alabama
Here is the not quite finished exhaust. At least it will get out from under the shelter a little bit.


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