Aftermarket wheels and tire sizes

[Jabba]

What have been successful aftermarket wheels that have been applied? And can you grow the tires without a lift? Not alot... I'm thinking 40"s if they will go.

I have a '94 M998 two man, with only 4,000 miles. Planning to convert to 4 man, and have the exterior covered in Line-X or Rhino.

Thoughts?

Jabba

 

[simp5782]

Use the search feature.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?161580-M998-Wheel-Alternative&highlight=tires

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...et-wheels-to-run-larger-tires&highlight=tires

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?144904-What-is-max-tire-size-stock&highlight=tires

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...ffroad-quite-tires-for-humvee&highlight=tires

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?167506-Tire-debate&highlight=tires


And I got tired of copying and pasting.

 

[Jabba]

Sorry. "Here let me search that up for you..." Like "here, let me google that for you."

What I take from that is 38"s' probably OK. Nothing taller without a lift. And it doesn't seem as though anyone REALLY knows much about aftermarket, civilian wheels other than H2 wheels fit, but change the offset. There is zero info it seems of wheel offset when shopping for aftermarket wheels.

:/

Jabba

 

[dilvoy]

Cepek Makes wheels that are rated for the Humvee/Hummer. As far as I know, they are the only one other than what AMG put out and maybe some rare wheels made by Hutchinson for testing. If you want to go cheap and use Hummer H2 wheels, you have to modify them and they are not rated for a Hummer H1 or Humvee so you don't really have the right thing. If you find something that works and the offset is correct and it is rated for the load, please post it in this thread so the info is available.

 

[ari]

Cepek Makes wheels that are rated for the Humvee/Hummer. As far as I know, they are the only one other than what AMG put out and maybe some rare wheels made by Hutchinson for testing. If you want to go cheap and use Hummer H2 wheels, you have to modify them and they are not rated for a Hummer H1 or Humvee so you don't really have the right thing. If you find something that works and the offset is correct and it is rated for the load, please post it in this thread so the info is available.

putting h2 wheels on a humvee would be the ultimate bastardisation and most messed up thing one can do to a humvee.

 

[Bravojmc]

putting h2 wheels on a humvee would be the ultimate bastardisation and most messed up thing one can do to a humvee.

lol it's like putting fake wheels on your real Humvee!!! Hehehe

 

[tobyS]

Since I use HMMWV wheels on my Dexter trailer axles and I also use Ford van 8 lugs, I would assume both Dexter or Ford would attach. That seems like the ultimate bastardisation. I just threw it out there

Would there be any reason to dual it up, like all around? With the huge backspace of the HMMWV wheel, a budd might fit.

 

[simp5782]

Sorry. "Here let me search that up for you..." Like "here, let me google that for you."

What I take from that is 38"s' probably OK. Nothing taller without a lift. And it doesn't seem as though anyone REALLY knows much about aftermarket, civilian wheels other than H2 wheels fit, but change the offset. There is zero info it seems of wheel offset when shopping for aftermarket wheels.

:/

Jabba

Most questions have been answered here before somewhere since everyone in the US has a HMMWV is seems. My understanding is that they have a 7" backspacing. Most of the HMMWV wheels will fit on the rear of a Ford or older chevy. HOWEVER they wont fit on the front without adapters. Why people were recentering the HMMWV wheels years ago for rock crawlers. Maybe they still do. The backspacing was an issue I became aware of back in 2009 trying to make them work on other things. TrailworthyFab in Kansas was recentering them then.

 

[buhdontcare]

Forgive my lack of understanding....but what separates the 8 bolt vs 12 bolt vs 24 bolt wheels w/ regard to their performance?

 

[98G]

Forgive my lack of understanding....but what separates the 8 bolt vs 12 bolt vs 24 bolt wheels w/ regard to their performance?

This refers to the number of bolts holding the two wheel halves together. Most of what you see at auction is 12 bolt wheels, with the occasional 24bolt.

More bolts = more even load= less prone to failure.

You see the same thing in the bigger truck world if you compare 5ton combat rims to lmtv rims.

 

[Action]

Forgive my lack of understanding....but what separates the 8 bolt vs 12 bolt vs 24 bolt wheels w/ regard to their performance?

The 8-bolt rims are for bias ply tires only. The 12 and 24 are for radial tires. The 24 have a higher load rating than the 12. The paired 24 are higher than the evenly spaced 24.

 

[86humv]

If you change to a non standard offset with bigger tires....your going to have hub problems later.

 

[dilvoy]

Not everyone is looking for long life and reliability Greg. Live fast!

 

[Jabba]

For clarification... I am NOT going to put H2 wheels on my H1.

I am interested in getting some sort of different wheel, to make tires cheaper. I do drive my H1 on the road a fair bit, and I am having a really hard time with tire balance. I have removed the run flats, bought new double bead locks from trailworthyfab.com, bought all new O-Rings with spares... and have been using balance beads. The first time I had my front left wheel apart to patch a hole... I added the beads and when I put it back together things were 400% better. Then the patch failed... and I had to do it all again, and when reassembled (last night) the thing is shaking like a dog ****ting a peach pit again.

I don't understand the fear of an aftermarkt wheel that was designed for a truck that is 50% heavier and a lot faster. Why would that wheel fail on a H1? It doesn't make sense to me. Now I understand the backspace issue, and less backspace changes the wheel geometry and puts more stress on the H1 hubs themselves. I definitely want to minimize that. I thought it would be nice to go to a 40" tire to help with RPM's at highway speeds... but it sounds like I'd have to add lift to do that.. and I am not interested in that... so I'll stick with 37's or close to that.

As I shop aftermarket wheels... they don't tell you the back-space. I was considering an aftermarket set of wheels designed for an H2... if I can find some that are very simple... and black. If I was comfortable with the backspace... just to get access to a wider choice and cheaper tires.

And yeah... I know surplus take-off are cheap. That's probably where I'll end up... buying a bunch of those... but the balance issues are kicking my ass.

Jabba

 

[Action]

If you have 12-bolt wheels without the 13th hole, you should have special washers to center the rim halves together.

 

[gringeltaube]

............That's probably where I'll end up... buying a bunch of those... but the balance issues are kicking my ass. ...

That should not happen, really... Try balancing these, statically? Here...

I have worked long enough on these HMMWV wheels; re-centered several sets already, both 12 & 24-bolts; changed from BFG to GY and vice versa; converted the original run flat donuts to beadlock bands... never really had any issues with balancing.

As an example, just recently built these (pictured below)...
Only one out of 4 needed less than 3 oz of lead. The other three, zero (!)

 

[HETvet]

H1 Alpha rims are 17"s and retain CTIS.

A 12 valve cummins and 6 speed Allison swap is hands down easier to do that the D-Max swap, and will offer lower highway speed RPM.

You can stuff 40"s at stock ride height. But a speed bump and and anything more that lane change steering inputs will cause rubbing/hood/tire damage. A 2" suspension lift will allow for 40"s to be used reliably. Add in a 2-3" body lift, and 42"s can be run reliably.

Caution: due to the T-case being full time 4x4, the added drive line stress of larger tires and/or more power will over heat the T-case fluid. It's recommended to install a T-case fluid cooler.

 

[86humv]

H1 Alpha rims are 17"s and retain CTIS.

A 12 valve cummins and 6 speed Allison swap is hands down easier to do that the D-Max swap, and will offer lower highway speed RPM.

You can stuff 40"s at stock ride height. But a speed bump and and anything more that lane change steering inputs will cause rubbing/hood/tire damage. A 2" suspension lift will allow for 40"s to be used reliably. Add in a 2-3" body lift, and 42"s can be run reliably.

Caution: due to the T-case being full time 4x4, the added drive line stress of larger tires and/or more power will over heat the T-case fluid. It's recommended to install a T-case fluid cooler.

Hmmwv's and H1's already have a cooler built in.

 

[Sintorion]

Cepek or Hutchinson are the only wheels you will find with the correct offset of +50mm. Anything else will stick out and rub. These are also forged which give you the load capacity you need for a 1 1/4 ton truck. There is a company that makes a blank wheel with the correct offset, but it is cast. That means it has a lower load capacity and you would have to get the lug holes and center hole machined.

 

[HETvet]

I didn't know that. The one I have in the shop now; 92 H1/FMV, had the duramax (LBZ) and Allison trans conversion done before it came in. Though the conversion was done by what looks like a monkey, I don't know if it has the original T-case. But it does not have a T-case cooler. I still think it would be a good idea to install a cooler with more cooling capacity with the addition of larger tires and/or more torque. This also goes for the rest of the cooling system. The E-fans and direct flow kit from predator INC should be more than enough.