FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[The FLU farm]

The machine was stuck in gear because the transmission got so hot that one of the syncromesh friction welded itself together. Also, almost all the bearings have been fried.

Ouch, that sucks. I suppose you'll be looking for a tranny, or an entire FLU.
On the positive side, you probably won't have to worry about how to put the original trans back together.

 

[Foxyjosh]

Ouch, that sucks. I suppose you'll be looking for a tranny, or an entire FLU.
On the positive side, you probably won't have to worry about how to put the original trans back together.

I'm sure I can get some parts. I've worked on this thing too hard to give up now.

 

[alpine44]

Well, I'm digging more into the transmission.

What was a promising outlook has quickly turned into a FUBAR diagnosis. The machine was stuck in gear because the transmission got so hot that one of the syncromesh friction welded itself together. Also, almost all the bearings have been fried.
Here is both sides of the syncro View attachment 700701View attachment 700702

On a side note, I had a loco motive into buying a used set of air horns for the mog. There should be enough air in the tank to power them.
View attachment 700703

PM sent about sources for trannys and/or parts.

With these big air horns you will have the choice of either using the air in the tank for braking or for blowing the obstacle off the road.

 

[Speedwoble]

Well, I'm digging more into the transmission.

What was a promising outlook has quickly turned into a FUBAR diagnosis. The machine was stuck in gear because the transmission got so hot that one of the syncromesh friction welded itself together. Also, almost all the bearings have been fried.

I have a 200 mile used trans that I bought from Expedition Imports before I started parting out my FLU. Will sell for much less than I paid. Does no good sitting in my garage.

 

[lurkMcGurk]

That's as lame as it gets, And a kick in the pants for your efforts. ****

 

[anthkey]

FLU farm, thanks for those photos and ideas! As far as the air hose goes, I already made up a gladhand quick connect but for the life of me I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong because only one of my gladhands is getting any pressure and that's only when the trailer emergency button is depressed. So, I'll throw my ignorance out there. What am I doing wrong? I connected the gladhand to the rear outlet both to the left and right of the electrical trailer connection. Other than holding the button down to get emergency air, what else is necessary that I haven't done? One buddy who's a heavy equipment operator said I needed to have the parking brake off but I haven't tried that yet. I'm new to all this truck technology and farm implementia. I can weld and fabricate, I can drive and I can dig, but I'm learning the rest of this stuff on the fly.I'll post photos as the progress goes on everything. Tomorrow night is figuring out more minor electrical gremlins and why the coolant temp gauge is dead.By the way, the real Midwest looks awfully nice!

I have been reading up on the air to trailers, to get an understanding on it all...
I know I responding to an old post.. but I found this...

I don't understand the lever at the steering wheel...???

no worries only in the back yard....
waiting on EUC for my M932

 

[The FLU farm]

I don't understand the lever at the steering wheel...???

You may be over-thinking it on that lever. It's just there as a way to supply air to the trailer brakes without having to use the SEE's brake pedal (and brakes).

For example, I often pull the lever a bit in the Pete, instead of setting the brakes, if I need to keep it in place while I check something real quick.
That way not much air is dumped, although it's not really an issue as the Pete has a far more meaningful compressor.
Anyway, that's all there's to it; it's a valve for the trailer brakes (well, technically for the gladhands that would connect to the trailer brakes).

 

[anthkey]

You may be over-thinking it on that lever. It's just there as a way to supply air to the trailer brakes without having to use the SEE's brake pedal (and brakes).

For example, I often pull the lever a bit in the Pete, instead of setting the brakes, if I need to keep it in place while I check something real quick.
That way not much air is dumped, although it's not really an issue as the Pete has a far more meaningful compressor.
Anyway, that's all there's to it; it's a valve for the trailer brakes (well, technically for the gladhands that would connect to the trailer brakes).

THANKS..... got it now.....

 

[General Hood]

Opened the Consumer Reports magazine and saw this. Too bad the rodent deterrent electrical tape wasn't used by Mercedes back in the 80s. I might have saved countless hours re-wiring my SEE

 

[farmertan]

Finally got the mog fixed up enough for its first project (170ft trench for 100amp service to new barn) ran it with no problems til dark then turned on the rear flood lights only to have them burn out within 10min of each other. Picked these up at the Kenworth dealer and don't think I'll have a light problem from now on. I hope doc can replace retina's




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[The FLU farm]

Opened the Consumer Reports magazine and saw this. Too bad the rodent deterrent electrical tape wasn't used by Mercedes back in the 80s. I might have saved countless hours re-wiring my SEE

You didn't know? There's gorilla tape, duck tape, rat tape, all kinds of deterrent tape.

 

[The FLU farm]

Picked these up at the Kenworth dealer and don't think I'll have a light problem from now on.

Yep, LEDs are our friend. I've replaced both front and rear work lights with cheapy (8 bucks) ones from Amazon. One 12-24 Volt set died, but that was on the SEE that often pegs the Volt meter. Now I'm buying the ones good for up to 48 Volts.
Either way, compared to the factory incandescents...well, there is no comparison.

 

[farmertan]

Also found another use for the mog one of my boys got a 4 point (i told him 6 or bigger) still in velvet with his crossbow on the youth hunt weekend. He claimed it looked like a 6 but got a little excited. Dropped it in its tracks.

 

[Another Ahab]

You didn't know? There's gorilla tape, duck tape, rat tape, all kinds of deterrent tape.

 

[rtrask]

rtrask's question list.

I am planning to get some work done on the SEE this weekend. I have some questions I am hoping that you all might have some answers that so far I have not been able to find in the manuals. I decided to break up the questions to individual posts so that they don't get jumbled up. So Question #1

I think that this throttle linkage should not be bent like this. The parts manual is not clear, but I am pretty sure from the picture it should not be. This is on the right side. 224-24P-1 0039-01 kind of shows it.




Is there any reason not to straighten it?

 

[rtrask]

rtrask's question list.

Next question:

There is a mysterious plastic hose that is not connected to anything I can tell, any ideas what it is for.




The other end of the mystery hose. It runs behind the power steering fluid reservoir. It is not the overflow from the radiator as suggested, too small. I think it was something to do with air but they use that plastic crap in a lot of places

 

[Couchoffroad]

Yes, it's definitely bent.

 

[rtrask]

rtrask's questions

Next Question

The radiator shows some damage on the front of it. I don't think it leaks, but the fan belt was off of it when I got it an the water pump was not pumping as a result. The plastic reservoir on the top was empty. I have not run it much for that reason. The old fan belt was still there, and I put it on upside down to get enough tension as a temporary measure till I could get it replaced. The water in the top reservoir turned green after a bit, so I think the water pump is OK. the temperature gauge does not work yet. I am planning on straightening the fins on the front, reinstalling everything, getting the temperature to register and calling it good. I have considered taking the radiator to a shop to have it checked out, but it seems like chasing shadows. Do any of you have any advice other than hook it up and run it a long time with the new fan belts to diagnose any potential issues?

 

[Couchoffroad]

Looks like the coolant resivoir overflow line

 

[Couchoffroad]

I will probably break when bent back , but will be necessary. You'll need to verify why it bent in the first place before it possibly happens agin after the repairs