Need Help SW Missouri - Glowplugs

[cclary25]

Purchased a 1987 HMMWV at the beginning of the year after saving up for years to finally purchased one. Unfortunately, I didn't get to see it before buying it since it was states away but called and spoke to the guy and was really friendly and guaranteed me everything worked perfectly. Well, it arrived and was dead on the trailer and couldn't hold a charge to start so had to purchase new batteries. Then took me forever to get it to start and when finally turned on half the lights on the outside didn't work and then the green fluid leaked all over passenger floor. So called the guy and he said sorry he never drove at night or looked at the lights nor had he ever messed with the heater. Also, stated he always left it on the charger. So then kept having a difficult time starting it and the previous owner said yeah it just needed the glow plugs changed out no big deal. Well, then I went and read on here how to change the glow plus and ordered the tool recommended and got under the hood and was only able to remove one which oddly was already unplugged and all the rest had marks all over them and were swollen beyond belief. Thus it was clearly obvious someone had already attempted this and was only able to remove the one and just left it unplugged and didn't change the rest. I called the guy back again telling him how this was the worse purchase of my life and there was nothing positive about this and he then told me that he just left it in his garage and never drove it. So then I asked how was this in excellent condition with no major problems when in reality he had no idea since he never drove it or just completely screwed me over. Anyhow, I also put a battery cutoff along with two new batteries and the power still drains even with the battery off and haven't even gotten to the heater core just put a bypass in for now. So the glowplugs since I could get them brought it to a local diesel shop in town and they spent 6 weeks with my vehicle to then tell me they couldn't get them either and charged me 5 hours of shop time for pretty much nothing and that if wanted them to fix it they would have to remove the heads since they will break on them and they are scared will not be able to get all the pieces. On top of all this these past two months our daughter fell really sick and had to rush her to Kansas City where she has been put under and had 5 procedures now over the past two months and will then need two more over the next 6 weeks. So, in other words, we are completely broke and stuck with my life's savings that will hardly start and cant even drive anywhere in the fear it won't start back up.

Since this is first diesel I have ever owned plus I don't have much experience with cars, in general, I don't trust myself removing the glow plugs when I know they're going to break. I have read all the instructions for when they do break but it's something I really don't feel comfortable doing. So I was wondering if anyone is in the SW Missouri area and has experience with this would be willing to pay for you to come help. I do have the Kascar removal tool along with a compressor and air tools. It's just with our daughter going through all these surgeries I am just really tight on money and can't afford to pay a shop the thousands they want to remove the heads and just rebuild it so my only option is to hopefully find someone nearby that can pay to help me change these out. Also, like I have mentioned only one came out easily all the rest are really swollen and even with the tool are probably going to break, so I know it's going to be a pain in the but.

Thank You,

 

[Action]

These become VERY expensive if you don't learn to work on them yourself.

 

[98G]

PM sent with some recommendations.

 

[dhaumann69166]

If you aren’t in a big hurry to get it done I would recommend doing it yourself. It may seem like a daunting task but tearing the heads off a 6.2 is simple. The main reason it costs so much is time spent. Someone with no experience should be able to tear down and go back together in less than a day. Gonna need a torque wrench when you go back together and tighten the head bolts in the right sequence. I would volunteer to come help but I live in Nebraska. Hope everything gets better with your daughter. Good luck.
Also I know someone on here is doing a full 6.2 rebuild right now so might check out their thread.

 

[cclary25]

I really think I may go ahead and give that a try and take the heads off myself. What is needed if I remove the heads? Should I just go ahead and buy a master rebuild kit? I really don't think removing the heads would be all that difficult just not sure what parts would need to replace if do pull off the heads?

Thank You,

 

[dhaumann69166]

http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/gs-260-1315 here is a full gasket set for a 6.2L. You will have a bunch of left over gaskets but never hurts to have them around especially for the price.
As for tools I don’t know any of the sizes without checking but I would recommend a line wrench for injector lines to keep from rounding them off. Torque wrench for head, intake and exhaust bolts. Basic socket set with extension. Catch pan to drain antifreeze into. Painters tape to label wires and hoses. Bags for bolts (also label them). Make sure to start spraying some PB Blaster or similar product on the exhaust bolts any day now. That isn’t a complete list but just some suggestions. Great thing about the 6.2 it’s a simple and basic motor and great to learn on. Start at the top and work your way down. A little Google time and you can find step by step instructions. Pretty sure the TM’s on this site have the torque specs. If you have any questions just ask.

 

[cclary25]

Alright, so I found the injector tool the 5060 Detroit Diesel Injector Socket now the only other tool will need for this project is a torque wrench. For this project what size torque wrench would you recommend 1/4, 3/8, or 1/2. I do have the harbor freight digital torque adapter that can put on any socket but not sure if trust HF torque items for engine work like this. Also, any recommendations on a recommended torque wrench, wouldn't mind getting a decent one and keeping it well maintained or would you recommend just using the cheap HF. Also, in the past I have tried using click torque wrenches and never can tell when they are at the correct torque, I don't know if it was since I was using a HF one but never seems to know when it clicked. So sort of paranoid on using a click wrench and not hearing it and over tightening which is something I am really bad at.

Thinking of maybe this 3/8" CDI Torque wrench that is 10-100 ft-lbs
https://www.amazon.com/CDI-1002MFRM...020600&sr=1-1&keywords=CDI+torque+wrench&th=1

Thank You

 

[Action]

Replace the head bolts.

 

[cclary25]

Also, is there anything else that would be worth changing out while removing the heads that won't be too expensive. Just figure since going through all the effort to remove the heads there are probably some other parts mines well replace as well. Also, are there any books on the diesel 6.2 engine that go into how to rebuild and everything that could buy as a guide to help get familiar with all the parts and everything.

Thank You,

 

[dhaumann69166]

You don’t necessarily need the line wrench. They just make it so you don’t round the corners. To figure out size take a regular wrench and check it. I would go with a half inch torque wrench but that’s just my preference. Just check your torque specs to make sure that none of the bolts need over 100 ft lbs. I doubt any need that much but I don’t know. If you never torque anything over 100 ft lbs 3/8 is fine.
Here is a cheap line wrench set http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-pc-flare-nut-wrench-set-sae/p-005W032606411000P?rrec=true
You can feel the click easily on the torque wrenchs. It’s pretty much impossible to miss. I have a hard time trusting digital stuff but that’s just me.

 

[papakb]

You might want to download a copy of TM 9-2815-237-34 and have it handy when your working on the engine. This is the manual that covers the 6.2 and 6.5 liter engines.

 

[eric67camino]

Sounds like you've getting plenty of good advice. I've not worked on 6.2s or hmmwvs, so I don't have anything I can add in that regard, but I will encourage you in trying it yourself. Best way to learn.

I can recommend taking your time. Keep your workspace, tools, parts, etc. clean and organized. Pictures and labels are also handy.

Any decent brand of torque wrench should suffice. If the clicker style make you uncomfortable, use a beam type. I have and use both styles myself.

Also, if you need a hand, give me a hollar. I'm just across the border. It's getting into busy season right now, but I can probably find some time if you need.

 

[Wire Fox]

I personally use the Harbor Freight torque wrenches. I'm not working on extremely precise instruments, so I feel comfortable that my torque wrenches might be +- 10 ft/lbs. Saves a ton of money to buy those instead of very high quality units. I've taken the top end of my engine apart twice now.

Definitely need a full 6.2/6.5L gasket set on hand. I can't directly give you an eBay link per the rules, but search there for this NSN: 2815-01-540-5593. That will give you all the gaskets you need for the HMMWV engine AND a set of 8 new glow plugs that are the proper 24V for about the same price as just a set of glow plugs. I bought 2 of this kit when the seller first had listed them for only $35 each, but it's still a terrific, beautiful value at $60 + S&H.

I might also recommend you replace some of the rubber hose while you're there. There is one short ~4 in hose from the intake manifold to the CDR valve, and another hose from the CDR to the oil fill tube. Mine was soft and bulging, so it was just convenient to replace them while I had the intake out of the way. You can inspect these and handle the hoses prior to disassembling to see if you would want to replace them.

Take your time while disassembling, making sure to clean/scrape off the old gasket material without gouging the engine surfaces. It will likely take a long time to do it right, but the end result is very worth it to ensure that your engine isn't leaking when you put it all back together with new gaskets. Oh, and like others have said, do spray down exhaust bolts and drain cocks and anything that you'll be taking apart that has any kind of corrosion to it with penetrating oil now, that way it's had time to soak in before you're ready to start turning wrenches.

 

[papakb]

cclary25,

If this is a new vehicle to you beyond the repair of the glow plugs problem here's a list of projects to consider.

1) change all fluids, engine, trans, steering, brake
2) change all belts and hoses
3) check all CV boots for splits and cracks
4) lubricate all zerk fittings
5) clean and tighten all battery and ground connections
6) build or buy the supplemental grounding harness and install it ASAP
7) flush and refill the coolant system
pick up an inexpensive voltmeter, you'll be amazed how handy it will be.
9) download all the manuals that are applicable for your vehicle, they're all available online
10) get a good creeper and spend some time rolling around under your truck checking for loose bolts, leaks, rust, and stuff that just doesn't look right.
11) remove all of the covers on your lights and check them for rust and corrosion

Keep in mind that even though this is basically a GM powered vehicle most Chevy dealers will run for cover if they see you drive in. As for the body and frame, a repair shop with old farts in it will probably help you out but 99% of newer shops will give you the old "nuke salute" and send you on your way. Most of them aren't willing to work on anything they can't look up online. The more you learn about your truck the better off you'll be when it gives you headaches 100 miles from home. Build up a basic toolbox and keep it in the truck.

But most of all, don't give up on it, your going to have a ton of fun intimidating Prius drivers!

 

[cclary25]

One other comment , I did buy the grounding harness and installed it already as well as replaced the batteries and installed the battery cutoff switch. However, even with the battery cutoff and new batteries it has still been dead when tried to start it. I dont see how this is even possible with the battery cutoff switch. However, the mechanic did take a look at this while were trying to get glow plugs off and said he tested and believes its the voltage regulator for the generator is failing. Well, I am not really sure what this means or what to do and wanted to see what you guys recommend.

Thank You again for all the help really feeling good about this situation now and tackling this myself.

 

[nickd]

Saw your post. I just changed out my glow plugs. One was swollen beyond removal.. it broke off. I pushed the stuck glow plug back out of the head with a punch and a sharp blow with a hammer. Removed the corresponding injector, reached in with a magnet and a hemostat, pulled it out. 30 minutes. Do not pull the head(s) unless you have to

 

[ken]

You most likely WILL NOT need to remove the heads. The injector is in the same area as the glow plug. The "pre chamber". If you break off a plug. Remove that injector and use a shop vac with a piece of vacume hose small enough to go inside the injector hole. Just duct tape the vac hose onto the shop vac's hose to stop any leaks. Then vac out the pre chamber. You can "feel" around in the hole with a piece of baling wire to ensure any and all pieces are removed. This has worked well for me in the past.
Also once you back the glow plug out from the threads if it will not back out, rotate it over and over in the hole until it gets loose enough to remove. A high quality penetrating oil will sometimes help loosen up the carbon holding it in. It may take dozens of rotations to loosen it. A lot of times people think the plugs are swollen when in fact they just have a lot of carbon build up. I realize this is not the easiest task on the passenger side. But it beats removing the heads. Try the drivers side first. Also test the restiance of the plugs with a multi meter. They may be ok and the problem may be in the "smart box" under the dash.

 

[cclary25]

Well previous owner claimed that one thing he actually did change was the box under the dash and that why it had to be the glow plugs. However, with all the other lies I am starting to not trust anything he says and will probably be worth checking. Also, where do I touch the two pieces to on meter to check resistance on the plugs and what Ohm resistance am I looking for. Well, check that out first, then do as you mentioned and try and get the plugs out without removing the heads and then removing heads worse case scenario. The options should turn out alot cheaper then what already spent at the shop. Then I can move to the battery and power issue and heater corse issue.

 

[tage]

Yeah you got in with a shady reseller. Should have bought directly from the source.

Sorry dude, but **** happens

 

[ken]

When using the meter touch the "bullet tip" and the hex. I don't rember what ohm's to expect. But you can compare the readings to the new plugs you have. All 8 should be close to each other. I wouldn't be surprised to see one or more open line. That would be the burn't ones. Also remove the engine cover. And from the drivers seat. Remove the rear drivers side glow plug connector. Using you multi meter connect to that glow plug wire and the ground. Then turn the ignition switch to run. See if you are getting 24 volts there to the plugs. Is the wait light working? Are you hearing the clicking of the glow plug solenoid?