• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

Chaski

Active member
684
56
28
Location
Burney/CA
Not liking the sounds of it. Been quoted about $1200 to fix it :(
Case spreader $150-220
Clamshell bearing tool $330 ish
Dial type inch pound torque wrench $100-300
NOS 4.56 R&P off eBay $250
bearing and seal kit $150-200

A day or three of your life and it will be good as new!
 

Rutjes

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
359
272
63
Location
Amersfoort, The Netherlands
Started stripping the M1009.

IMG_20180409_153020.jpg

I'm going to store the engine and transmission as spares. I have a big pallet I want to put the engine on and have it able to be run every now and then (not just cranking the starter, but actually running it) so it stays properly lubed up inside. It might be in storage for a long time and I've read stories about piston rings rusting stuck to the walls, I don't want that.

Any advice for storing the transmission?
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,280
2,987
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Started stripping the M1009.

View attachment 724765

I'm going to store the engine and transmission as spares. I have a big pallet I want to put the engine on and have it able to be run every now and then (not just cranking the starter, but actually running it) so it stays properly lubed up inside. It might be in storage for a long time and I've read stories about piston rings rusting stuck to the walls, I don't want that.

Any advice for storing the transmission?
Just keep the transmission attached to the engine. Starting the engine will also keep the transmission running too. Just use a good plug on the output shaft. Keep your radiator also attached to the engine. That way you can get the engine up to operating temperature.
 

RobM36A2

Member
302
9
18
Location
The Netherlands
After a long while not being on here:
My old steeringpump got new insides and got to run in the parade I needed the M1028 for.

This weekend when I went to a local car meet, the pump started leaking (again)
Strange thing is, only leaks a little with cold engine, or steering under load (truck standing still and turning)
Project for the next weekend: Try to tighten the pressure side coupling and hope that fixes the problem, as there is some oil seeping.
And when that fails, off to the shop for a new steering pump.
 

sneekyeye

Active member
253
135
43
Location
ALABAMA
IMAG0821_1[1].jpg
I finally put the heater core in I've been sitting on since last fall. The original one wasn't leaking internally but the hose barb was mangled when I bought the thing and i could never get it sealed right. I stuffed in some foam on each side of it so it would be sealed good.
Also figured this would be a good time to put on my new upper and lower radiator hose, and reseal my thermostat housing. It had been leaking through the bolt threads ever since I put in the new thermostat and gasket. I ended up using toyota RTV on it and calling it a day.
 

Drock

New member
1,020
12
0
Location
Eatonton GA
Well I finally replaced my leaking steering box. That was less then fun, pretty fiddly to do by myself and the new box had one of the bolt holes threaded crooked.
 
Last edited:

Bighorn

New member
445
8
0
Location
N/A
I managed to drag the m1009 3 miles over the snow to the shop.
Going to install an Off Road Designs 3" lift kit with shackle reversal in the rear.
The front springs are shot.
Why not upgrade?

First i had to dig out 5 feet of snow.
I am thawing out the gravel.
Might take a few days.

20180415_182237.jpg20180415_182321.jpg

Why do a lift when there is still 5 feet of snow?
Because it's spring!
(Get it? Lift.. spring)
I'll just keep feeding this fire..
 

85CUCVtom

Active member
712
26
28
Location
Lakewood, Ohio
I managed to drag the m1009 3 miles over the snow to the shop.
Going to install an Off Road Designs 3" lift kit with shackle reversal in the rear.
The front springs are shot.
Why not upgrade?

First i had to dig out 5 feet of snow.
I am thawing out the gravel.
Might take a few days.

View attachment 725371View attachment 725372

Why do a lift when there is still 5 feet of snow?
Because it's spring!
(Get it? Lift.. spring)
I'll just keep feeding this fire..
Let me know how that Off-road Design loft works out for you. I know that make a quality product and I have been contemplating doing my truck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

85CUCVtom

Active member
712
26
28
Location
Lakewood, Ohio
Ball joints. I swear every joint on this thing is loose. The upper ball joint had a bit of play so I’m doing both. Trying to get this thing tuned up before I get the new tires and an alignment.

CUCV.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

rustystud

Well-known member
9,280
2,987
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Ball joints. I swear every joint on this thing is loose. The upper ball joint had a bit of play so I’m doing both. Trying to get this thing tuned up before I get the new tires and an alignment.

View attachment 725383




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Don't forget to replace the front axle "U-Joints" while your in there. The new U-joints are cheap compared to having to go back in later to replace them.
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,290
1,776
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
Replaced Gates thermostat on the M1008A1
First one failed after less than a year.
Opening up at <160* instead of 190*.

New one working correctly.

Both were made in China.....ugh!

At least it’s easy to change.

Just replaced both thermostats in my duramax two weeks ago.

I’m on a roll.......
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Ball joints. I swear every joint on this thing is loose. The upper ball joint had a bit of play so I’m doing both. Trying to get this thing tuned up before I get the new tires and an alignment.

View attachment 725383




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
At the risk of ruining your day. I will also add that the inner front axle seals will probably start leaking now. It seems to be going around now. Everything has reached that age. I have a few leaking and they attract a lot of dirt. Makes the right wheel knuckle look massive with the gear oil and dirt it attracts. It never leaves a puddle and I will probably change the axle before I change the seals. Only because I have new complete front axles and never for see using them. Just a thought. My understanding is the center carrier has to come apart to change the seals in the front axle. That seal is in there a long way and mine are packed with lots of mud and sand. I may just send a spare axle out and have them changed. But gears and transmissions is something I don't have the know how or tools to work on. And at this point I feel not worth learning or doing. I have a full menu at this point. have a great day. Stay dry and keep yourself safe.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
816
113
Location
Virginia
But gears and transmissions is something I don't have the know how or tools to work on. And at this point I feel not worth learning or doing. I have a full menu at this point.
I hear ya. I have a transmission sitting here that needs to be rebuilt, but I am not going to tackle it. It's a 4L60E, and I've read that they are very easy to work on, but my plate is full and I just don't have time to mess with learning something new. Replacing a solenoid on my Cherokee is one thing (drop the pan, undo a couple of screws, and unplug it), but diving into anything more complicated? Nah, I have other things to do.

You have to pick your battles.
 

Bighorn

New member
445
8
0
Location
N/A
At the risk of ruining your day. I will also add that the inner front axle seals will probably start leaking now. It seems to be going around now. Everything has reached that age. I have a few leaking and they attract a lot of dirt. Makes the right wheel knuckle look massive with the gear oil and dirt it attracts. It never leaves a puddle and I will probably change the axle before I change the seals. Only because I have new complete front axles and never for see using them. Just a thought. My understanding is the center carrier has to come apart to change the seals in the front axle. That seal is in there a long way and mine are packed with lots of mud and sand. I may just send a spare axle out and have them changed. But gears and transmissions is something I don't have the know how or tools to work on. And at this point I feel not worth learning or doing. I have a full menu at this point. have a great day. Stay dry and keep yourself safe.
Torque King in Billings Montana has a special tool to facilitate inner axle seal replacement.
Basically a jack screw with aluminum plates the size of the seal.
I am sure you could fabricate one.
Did mine when i replaced ball joints,axle joints etc.
You will need a case spreader to get the carrier out.
On a used axle with old carrier bearings it tends to be easy to just pry the carrier out with a crow bar.
Hammer it back in with a singlejack and block of wood.
But, that isn't the proper way...
I bought all the tools.
Recall it was about $150 for the inner axle seal tool and i think my case spreader was under 100 bucks.

20180416_070012.jpg
Ball joint press
20180416_070040.jpg
Inner axle seal tool

The case spreader is buried in my tools somewhere but it is just a square frame of steel with two pins and two jack screws.
It spreads the diff case about .010"
Just put everything back the way it came out, shims etc.
If your axle was in good shape before then removing and replacing the carrier will have no ill effects.
It's really easy.
 
Last edited:

85CUCVtom

Active member
712
26
28
Location
Lakewood, Ohio
Torque King in Billings Montana has a special tool to facilitate inner axle seal replacement.
Basically a jack screw with aluminum plates the size of the seal.
I am sure you could fabricate one.
Did mine when i replaced ball joints,axle joints etc.
You will need a case spreader to get the carrier out.
On a used axle with old carrier bearings it tends to be easy to just pry the carrier out with a crow bar.
Hammer it back in with a singlejack and block of wood.
But, that isn't the proper way...
I bought all the tools.
Recall it was about $150 for the inner axle seal tool and i think my case spreader was under 100 bucks.

View attachment 725412
Ball joint press
View attachment 725413
Inner axle seal tool

The case spreader is buried in my tools somewhere but it is just a square frame of steel with two pins and two jack screws.
It spreads the diff case about .010"
Just put everything back the way it came out, shims etc.
If your axle was in good shape before then removing and replacing the carrier will have no ill effects.
It's really easy.
Doesn’t seem that bad, almost seems easier to pull the axle and work off a bench versus laying in the floor. I’ll put it back together and see if it has issues. I’ll cross that bridge when I get it it.

We used it have a great off-road shop just west of me. He did transmission, transfer case and axle work at a very reasonable price. Closed up shop years ago after an illness. It was a real shame to lose someone like that in the 4wd community.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

Bighorn

New member
445
8
0
Location
N/A
Doesn’t seem that bad, almost seems easier to pull the axle and work off a bench versus laying in the floor. I’ll put it back together and see if it has issues. I’ll cross that bridge when I get it it.

We used it have a great off-road shop just west of me. He did transmission, transfer case and axle work at a very reasonable price. Closed up shop years ago after an illness. It was a real shame.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
No doubt.
Someday I am going to have saved enough to buy land and build my shop.
Mechanics that know the arcane ways are getting hard to find.
As i just turned 49 today.. i am feeling more arcane all the time!
 

Bighorn

New member
445
8
0
Location
N/A
That tool looks pretty cool though. I kinda want one. :-o
I love tools.
Buy them every chance i get.
There is simply no comparison to having the right tool for the job.
That being said; it is still fun trail rigging stuff.
Particularly when the tools are there but the right parts aren't.
Lost the rear drive shaft on my 84 K5.
Same t case as the m1009; np208.
Turns out a 1 liter coca cola bottle with the top cut off fits right over the output shaft and a bit of duct tape held all the fluid in when i drove home on the front axle.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks