Third From Texas
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Maybe you can utilize some of the folks youve had chained in the basement to help like hold the other end of the tape measure and keep all the cordless batteries charged up for ya and maybe point out shat your doin wrong and by all means dont F this build up take all that shat in the box and throw it out the back door and lets do this rite !! First run all the electrical outlets and if u dont fur the walls out you will have to use wire mold and get your 110 panel set if your not building inner walls you will need to put all sorces of water use one the same wall so you can hide the pex plumbing and loose all them 1970 overhead lights and get ya some nice low draw 12v led puck lights that you can put in the ceiling and cabinets with a whole saw let me know when you get this list done and well move foward !
If your doing it to keep your truck 24 side charged just useing your solar to charge the house batteries tied to the 12v side of the truck batteries for some reason dont ask me why keeps my 24 side of the truck charged as well so just runnibg a hot cable from the house to the truck eliminates alot of stuff ! And as far as battery fires as far as i know of we have never had a battery fire on the house batteries on entertainer buses and no matter who the builder was they all put the house batteries under the drivers area behind the front bumper and im talking 1500 to 2000 buses at worst ive had one of the 3 go bad and gas off which smells to me like burnt eggs stinks like shat but lets you know youve got a bad one and i am talking about sealed agm 4D and 8D batteries and a good thing when you buy the solar controler they have a battery temp probe that you put on the battery and you see on the controler the battery info plus it will shut the charging down if the battery gets to warm .I have a 10hp Dewey BAPU (24v diesel battery charger). I modified it by changing out the charging head to a 6500k generator head. Sadly, two years later after only 24 hrs of run time, the generator head suffered a catastrophic internal mechanical failure.
I'm debating just putting the 24v charging head back on. There's at least one user on here (I honestly don't recall whom) who was going this route (24v charger w/inverter). A replacement generator head is not only more difficult to locate but much more expensive these days.
I've been using my spare 6K gas-powered genset since the Northstar gen head took a crap.
I remember the time they gased off on me in 05 when my passenger got back on the bus that night and omg i thought they would never shut up about it ! 1 of the 3 under the front bumber went bad . Lucky for me when 1 goes bad they replace all 3 and i keep the other 2I have a Bussmann battery equalizer, so no issue with 24v/12v charges.
Battery fire hazards are a thing from what I've read. Especially with the increase of cheap Chinese lithiums being used w/solar in RVs and "van life" rigs. Remember, when it comes time for batteries I'll be using the cheapest China lithium bunkerbusters can find on sale w/free shipping (not some fancy-pants name brand LifePro4 $3000/ea batteries). Yeah, lead acid batteries "out gas" as well and should be vented (that smell is actually warning you that death awaits, it's poisonous).
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As you plan out your(CRIME SCENE) think about balancing you heavy stuff so one thing counters the other heavy thing if your not going to mount your fresh water tank in the center so you dont wind up with all your weight on one wall . Are you going to put hvy steel eyelets in the walls to handcuff your NEW freinds to ?Still mocking up stuff. Got the bathroom curtain/door in. And my 55gal fresh tank.
Going to frame the stowage area to the right at entry next. Will have all electrical and batteries in the that module as well as closet storage space.
Demo will begin soon. Replacing the massive breaker box with a small panel. Deleting the overhead lights. Landing an additional outlet drop for the bathroom. Gut, prep, paint...
View attachment 850898
So maybe seperate the 2 sidewalls with there own 20 amp breaker the 3rd 20 amp breaker for ac/heat things will change over the years so a breaker for the mini split and 1 outside weatherproff plug 20 amp and of coarse your not going to have that kind of load on them but for the sake of redundancy you lose a wall the other wall will hold the load til repairs can be made ! And as far as the misunderstood romantic rental if you do it rite they do stay all nite! kind of like the old bull young bull joke !Rgr all.
Yeah, the OEM panel in there is about what I would have installed in a commercial warehouse, shop, etc. It's *way* too big.
Currently here's a 100amp main, a 50amp, a 30amp, three 20amp, and three 15amp. I've neutered it so as to delete the 208 phase stuff.
At most I have: 5k BTU a/c, TV, LED lighting, water pump, floor heat (will likely never be used, but it's there). There will be a battery charger or two in the mix. So I could honestly fit what I need in a lunchbox-sized panel. There are no elevators, ceiling fans, chandeliers, or hot tubs in my build. I bet four 15amp breakers would cover the works (remember, 12 foot box here with a one dog, one person, and the occasional hourly rental wench/lot lizard (they don't stay the night).
Cool idea on the way to set it up with plugs instead of a switch.
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