M548a1

[h1x2]

I bought an M548a1. It’s being delivered next week. I’ve never been around one and I’m not familiar with how they drive. I have to unload it off the trailer when it arrives. Is anyone familiar with these that could give me some quick instructions? I haven’t been able to find a manual or anything. I’m not even sure I’m posting this in the correct forum.

Thank you

 

[Mullaney]

I bought an M548a1. It’s being delivered next week. I’ve never been around one and I’m not familiar with how they drive. I have to unload it off the trailer when it arrives. Is anyone familiar with these that could give me some quick instructions? I haven’t been able to find a manual or anything. I’m not even sure I’m posting this in the correct forum.

Thank you

.
Just have the driver drop it off and my place...
I would be happy to drive it off the trailer

In all honesty, the visuals out of the front isn't half bad. If you are backing it off the trailer you will be completely dependent on your hauler. Chances are he or she will be as concerned as you are about getting that tracked vehicle on the ground safely. Strongly suggest that you and they confirm hand signals. You know... A little pinch motion means a tiny movement, and the driver should be able to see the loadmaster (driver). Motion to the left should mean the vehicle needs to go left and so on. SMALL movements all the time!

If the unload doesn't seem to be working smoothly, shut it down. Then get out and talk it over, reset and start over. It is hard to depend on somebody that you don't really know that well - but it has to be for a safe unload.

 

[SETOYOTA]

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/misc/TM9-2350-247-10.pdf

right here on steel soldiers

 

[Mullaney]

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/misc/TM9-2350-247-10.pdf

right here on steel soldiers

.
Well Chuck... Guess I was so wound up in my excitement about the "hey drop it off at my place" joke that I completely forgot to look for a -10 operators guide. Good find and a real useful link too!

When I started thinking about unloading a tractor, I just kept thinking about the first time I ever did that.
.

 

[SETOYOTA]

When I got my M5 Stuart I was in the same boat. I had to read the manual while it was on the trailer to figure out how to get drive it off

 

[Mullaney]

When I got my M5 Stuart I was in the same boat. I had to read the manual while it was on the trailer to figure out how to get drive it off

.
My first was the old M4 Tractor. Lots of loads.
Hangs off both sides of a standard lowboy and metal tracks on metal trailer is a lot like pulling a greased string out of a billygoat's butt.

 

[Bill Nutting]

I bought an M548a1. It’s being delivered next week. I’ve never been around one and I’m not familiar with how they drive. I have to unload it off the trailer when it arrives. Is anyone familiar with these that could give me some quick instructions? I haven’t been able to find a manual or anything. I’m not even sure I’m posting this in the correct forum.

Thank you

Welcome to the site from Michigan. Go to post number three and click the link that SETOYOTA gave you. That is the link to the manual you should review before your vehicle arrives.

 

[fuzzytoaster]

They're much like older dozers with the two levers. Take your time with it and watch your spotter. Don't over think it and be aware of your surroundings. Here's a video of one I bid on a few months ago.

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[WillWagner]

Main controls, throttle pedal, gear selector, ign on, start button, engine stop cable and two brake control sticks. It has a 4 speed auto in it, IIRC, make sure the brakes are set. The sticks should be pulled all the way back and locked with the buttons on the top of the handles. Make sure the trans is in neutral, engine stop cable pulled. Power on, and crank. After a few revolutions, push the stop cable in and hit the start button. If it is a good runner, it will fire immediately. Look at your oil pressure, if it is good, select reverse, watch your guide and release the brake by pulling back on both sticks and pushing the buttons and SLOWLY let the sticks move forward. REMEMBER, these are your brakes, the sticks can be hard to pull on to get good braking. Pulling back on the left brakes the left track, the front will pull left in fwd and rear pulls opposite in reverse, same for the right. Remember when backing, brake with the opposite stick that you need to move the track to, if the track needs to move to the right, pull on the left stick.

To kill it, stop the carrier, set the brakes, put in N, ign off and pull the shut off cable out.

Is it on a gooseneck or Landoll type of trailer?

 

[Guyfang]

I am going to toss in my two cents now. Driving a M548 is like driving a boat, if you have never driven a tracked vehicle with Pivot steering.

You can not go slow enough!

Will Wagner broke it down right. Its not hard, but you got to pay attention. My drivers training on the Beast, (it was a modified 548 chassis, turned into a XM727 HAWK Launcher) was about as long as Will's write up, then I drove it off a Missile site and onto the German road system. So its not hard. I will admit that I killed 40-50 road side markers, slammend my toed radar trailer against the Autobahn guard rail once, and scared the other three guys in the cab with me to death.

What I am getting at is if the engine runs well and the governor has been removed or disconnected, that baby can move. When you want to slow or stop, evenly apply pressure to the laterals, (sticks). Too much in one direction can lead to you needing to repair something you have bumped or ran over. Never back up without a ground guide, and we never drove it forward without a ground guide unless we were on a road, and moving at speed. Take it to a VERY large field to learn how to drive it. Its more fun then drugs!! Good luck.

 

[h1x2]

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/misc/TM9-2350-247-10.pdf

right here on steel soldiers

Thank you. That helps a lot!

 

[h1x2]

Main controls, throttle pedal, gear selector, ign on, start button, engine stop cable and two brake control sticks. It has a 4 speed auto in it, IIRC, make sure the brakes are set. The sticks should be pulled all the way back and locked with the buttons on the top of the handles. Make sure the trans is in neutral, engine stop cable pulled. Power on, and crank. After a few revolutions, push the stop cable in and hit the start button. If it is a good runner, it will fire immediately. Look at your oil pressure, if it is good, select reverse, watch your guide and release the brake by pulling back on both sticks and pushing the buttons and SLOWLY let the sticks move forward. REMEMBER, these are your brakes, the sticks can be hard to pull on to get good braking. Pulling back on the left brakes the left track, the front will pull left in fwd and rear pulls opposite in reverse, same for the right. Remember when backing, brake with the opposite stick that you need to move the track to, if the track needs to move to the right, pull on the left stick.

To kill it, stop the carrier, set the brakes, put in N, ign off and pull the shut off cable out.

Is it on a gooseneck or Landoll type of trailer?

Thank you. Exactly what I was looking for. Appreciate the step by step

 

[h1x2]

Main controls, throttle pedal, gear selector, ign on, start button, engine stop cable and two brake control sticks. It has a 4 speed auto in it, IIRC, make sure the brakes are set. The sticks should be pulled all the way back and locked with the buttons on the top of the handles. Make sure the trans is in neutral, engine stop cable pulled. Power on, and crank. After a few revolutions, push the stop cable in and hit the start button. If it is a good runner, it will fire immediately. Look at your oil pressure, if it is good, select reverse, watch your guide and release the brake by pulling back on both sticks and pushing the buttons and SLOWLY let the sticks move forward. REMEMBER, these are your brakes, the sticks can be hard to pull on to get good braking. Pulling back on the left brakes the left track, the front will pull left in fwd and rear pulls opposite in reverse, same for the right. Remember when backing, brake with the opposite stick that you need to move the track to, if the track needs to move to the right, pull on the left stick.

To kill it, stop the carrier, set the brakes, put in N, ign off and pull the shut off cable out.

Is it on a gooseneck or Landoll type of trailer?

It’s coming on a step deck with ramps. Some of the machines I’ve seen have smaller rubber pads on the tracks. The one I purchased seems to have rubber Over the whole track. Should give it some more traction coming off the trailer.

 

[h1x2]

Thanks for all the replies everyone. Really appreciate the help.

 

[Mullaney]

It’s coming on a step deck with ramps. Some of the machines I’ve seen have smaller rubber pads on the tracks. The one I purchased seems to have rubber Over the whole track. Should give it some more traction coming off the trailer.

.
In a perfect world - assuming that it is straight on the trailer - you might be able to leave the steering clutches alone - and drive slowly down the ramps. The "tip over" where the vehicle goes from flat on the trailer to hanging over the ramps... Just before it breaks over onto the ramps is the "spooky" part. As has been said before MOVE SLOWLY. Really slow and with eyes outside on the ground watching and giving directions.

 

[G744]

I have a few good parts for the 548, if you're interested.

Dennis

 

[WillWagner]

I have a few good parts for the 548, if you're interested.

Dennis

What kinda parts?

 

[WillWagner]

It’s coming on a step deck with ramps. Some of the machines I’ve seen have smaller rubber pads on the tracks. The one I purchased seems to have rubber Over the whole track. Should give it some more traction coming off the trailer.

Good, not meaning to scare ya, but that is WAY better than a tilt Landoll! It can be scary backin, well moving fwd too, on a tilt bed, I hate that! Just had to do that with a 54k aircraft tug! Yes the "tip over" can be a pucker factor!

Take pic of the tracks.....

 

[Guyfang]

It’s coming on a step deck with ramps. Some of the machines I’ve seen have smaller rubber pads on the tracks. The one I purchased seems to have rubber Over the whole track. Should give it some more traction coming off the trailer.

You also do less damage to what ever driving surface you are on.

 

[h1x2]

I’ve unloaded a lot of heavy equipment off every type of trailer there is. That was by far the worst. Just got it put into the shop. Had to do it in the dark and pouring rain. Got it done without laying it on its side though