• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Lightning Auto-start?

shazam

Member
22
51
13
Location
Ohio
We had a thundershower this morning around 5AM. Lightning, but nothing within several miles based on the 'one-onethousand' methodology. After one bolt of lightning the MEP803a started up, ran for about 5 seconds, then shut down. Ever heard of such a thing? Obviously the timing of the two could be coincidental, given the distance away of the lightning.

For background, the 803 sits on a concrete pad outside, hard-wired thru a utility/gen exclusive breaker to the main panel. There is a remote manual switch for the gen near the breaker box. Pretty standad stuff...

Thoughts? WAGs?

Next step is to fire it up, and make sure there are no continuing issues.

Thanks!
Jim
 

Light in the Dark

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,860
6,074
113
Location
MA
And you are 10000% positive your machine turned on? I assume its grounded through your homes ground (through the hard wire), versus a rod at the machine? Don't fire a thing up until you do some investigating. I would unhook the Negative terminal on the dead crank side battery and start looking the machine over thoroughly (including taking the gauge lid and roof off over the controls.

If you really had some sort of anomalous AC current event start your machine (over DC circuitry)... the how, I am not sure... but it would have been over lines rated to carry DC low voltage and you may have some serious hidden problems. It would have involved some significant arcing through the machine to accomplish this.

Time to investigate with a fine tooth comb. I had a direct lighting strike (35' from my 802A, halfway up a giant pine tree which split in half as a result) and thankfully there was no ground rod at the machine acting like a conductor back into the machine. I had no issues after the fact, but mine also did not turn on.

You really need to look over every wire, every connector, every everything to see if there is burnt smell, wire jacked or component discoloration, melted metal (start switch contacts, etc). Good luck, I will be watching this thread. Share photos of anything you find.
 

shazam

Member
22
51
13
Location
Ohio
As they say..God protects fools and children. At the time of your reply I had already started the generator and was pulling over 30 amps a side using the clothes dryer etc. It was showing 60 cycles, 118 volts a side. Yikes! I immediately shut it down.

As to your first question...yessir, it ran. It's 20 feet from our bed and my wife and I were both awake. Yes...it's grounded thru the hard wire to the box.

Out to the box to start the investigation! Thanks!

I'll ask the follow-up question early...What if I don't find anything?

Jim

PS- For those questioning the sanity of having the gennie 20 feet from the bed. There's an 'insulated concrete form' wall between them (solid...6" of concrete 8" of foam) that reduces the roar to a pleasant background noise.
 

kloppk

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,168
3,610
113
Location
Pepperell, Massachusetts
I suspect the 2 wires for the 2-wire Remote Start board picked up some electricity from the strike causing the Remote Start to initiate a start. After the start electricity disapated the Remote Start saw the lack of stray voltage and then did a generador stop
 
Last edited:

Light in the Dark

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,860
6,074
113
Location
MA
I suspect the 2 wires for the 2-wire Remote Start board picked up some electricity from the strike causing the Remote Start to initiate a start. After the start electricity disapated the Remote Start saw the lack of stray voltage and the did a generador stop
That could have been a useful addition to the first post, presence of a remote start system.
 

Light in the Dark

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,860
6,074
113
Location
MA
I agree...I wasn't clear in the initial post. "There is a remote manual switch for the gen near the breaker box." I'll use the correct terminology next time. We're all still learning. :)

Thanks to both of you!

Jim
I probably lead you on a wild goose chase without the clarification... and probably some unneeded concern too. Glad to hear its operating correctly.
 

peapvp

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,121
1,255
113
Location
Basehor, KS
The common issue on those generators is the connection between chassis and Terminal L0 which is usually tied in with PE and N on the other end.
This creates two poles in the generator between chassis and Terminal L0
Any stray voltage originating from the utility side will feed back into any generator.
The L0 connection will then build a voltage differential to Genset chassis causing a gigantic spark.

This scenario is applicable to any generator with or without any type of auto start system

solution: make a jumper in generator between L0 and chassis.
The jumper should be 2ga copper or larger
 
Last edited:

kayak1

Active member
97
161
33
Location
Maine
Post #29 helps more. The bond should only exist in one location.

Think of the generator as a sub-panel.

Sub panels are allowed separate grounding rods, and they aren't allowed bonding between the ground and the neutral.
 

peapvp

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,121
1,255
113
Location
Basehor, KS
Post #29 helps more. The bond should only exist in one location.

Think of the generator as a sub-panel.

Sub panels are allowed separate grounding rods, and they aren't allowed bonding between the ground and the neutral.
The Generator is not a sub panel. It's a Generator.

If you separate the bond in the Generator, then you open up a can of worms, as we have seen in this case.
These particular MEP Generators were specifically designed to have this bond. Removing this bond creates a unsafe and unstable condition within these Generators, as the Neutral here is tied to the Genset Frame together with the negative post of the 24VDC Battery Supply.

If ground separation / ground loop prevention is absolutely necessary in a setup, then you will have to go through a isolation transformer between Genset and ATS.
But do not remove the Bond between L0 and Frame of Genset
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,920
24,537
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Perhaps, we need to take a step back here. While you CAN hook up a military generator set to power your house, It was not designed to do so. Military Power Generation is designed to power military equipment in the field. In the field requires a Neutral Bond. This is fact.

From Peter:
These particular MEP Generators were specifically designed to have this bond. Removing this bond creates a unsafe and unstable condition within these Generators, as the Neutral here is tied to the Genset Frame together with the negative post of the 24VDC Battery Supply.


When you hook up a Military generator to a house, things change. I am an electrician. But here in Germany. Cant tell you what should or should not happen when a Generator is hooked up to a house/building in America. Everyone quotes all kinds of laws and rules that apply in America. But I am also certain, those rules can be different from state to state. So maybe you all need to go back to basics. Quote the Federal laws and rules, and maybe think about the fact that you are asking a generator designed to run in the field, and are now trying to make it compatible to "City Power", if you will.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks