Truck bought for parts, got it running, but…

[Mogman]

Or maybe they are farther down on the left side, IIRC all of the detroits had that number, I think the one you are looking for has some letters in it.
You likely have a GEP.

 

[T9000]

My melton has the same number and on the date code side it has "H100". Rather than being stamped on the block it looks like they are tags that were attached:

Attach filesView attachment 890124
View attachment 890125

Where is that H100 code located on your engine?
I only found a J28 (not sure if it means anything) on the driver side, on the wall facing the fender, right by the transmission dust cover:



That sticker looks like it is attached to the transmission and contains transmission related info, correct?

 

[nairb]

It’s on the passenger side near the transmission, same spot as the other number just on the passenger side

 

[nairb]

And yes, that sticker is on the trans. There is a similar one on the block with engine info.

 

[T9000]

And yes, that sticker is on the trans. There is a similar one on the block with engine info.
View attachment 890147

Got it! Will look for it, could be buried under the thick layer of gunk. Thank you!

 

[T9000]

That snowman looks damaged on the feed side, such a simple thing I wonder how they screwed it up, I think the numbers you are looking for are on the other side of center

Here is a closer look at the taken out snowman vs a new one:



Maybe the tightened too much on one side and the turbo was a little cocked?

 

[Mogman]

That is fairly hard to screw up, especially when building an engine on a stand, it looks really old, maybe they did not even change it?
how many miles did you think your motor had?

 

[T9000]

That is fairly hard to screw up, especially when building an engine on a stand, it looks really old, maybe they did not even change it?
how many miles did you think your motor had?

It shows 8,000 miles on the speedo and it seems to add up based on the air filter and oil filter which both were marked as being changed around 5,800 miles. But it’s 8,000 miles since the remanufacturing, the Melton guy said that the truck gets reset to zero miles when this engine gets installed, so not sure how many miles it had before the remanufacturing, but it makes sense if they didn’t change the seal.
Maybe it was a complete screwup and someone forgot to replace the seal , which most likely it’s the SOP.

 

[Maxjeep1]

Melton reset is nothing more than having someone making your truck worse than when it came in.

 

[T9000]

Melton reset is nothing more than having someone making your truck worse than when it came in.

It seems that way as both valve covers were leaking at the gasket.

 

[T9000]

I took apart the whole turbo and will reassemble it once the new cartridge arrives.
Does anyone know the torque specs for the 5 x TORX and other HEX bolts on the exhaust side?

 

[T9000]

I am also looking to add a boost gauge to match the existing ones and the only models I could find with black bezel, white indicator in 2 1/16" are either for 30PSI or 15PSI which also has VACUUM:





Do you know of other better options? Is the Vaccum/ Boost one OK?

 

[Mogman]

Don't forget to drill and tap the crossover for 1/8" NPT for the boost gauge.

 

[Mogman]

I am also looking to add a boost gauge to match the existing ones and the only models I could find with black bezel, white indicator in 2 1/16" are either for 30PSI or 15PSI which also has VACUUM:

View attachment 890216

View attachment 890215

Do you know of other better options? Is the Vaccum/ Boost one OK?

You really don't need an installed boost gauge, just hook one up for calibration and if you need to diagnose a problem.
PS you will be bummed out every time you look at a 30psi gauge, 15psi gauge will make you think "yea I'm really doing something"

 

[T9000]

Don't forget to drill and tap the crossover for 1/8" NPT for the boost gauge.

Yes, that's exactly what I was thinking, that now it's the best time to drill the hole while I have everything apart.

 

[T9000]

You really don't need an installed boost gauge, just hook one up for calibration and if you need to diagnose a problem.
PS you will be bummed out every time you look at a 30psi gauge, 15psi gauge will make you think "yea I'm really doing something"

Well, yeah, that's why I am also looking at the 15psi one lol...but how about the vacuum side, isn't that going to inject jitters in the brain if it jumps from right to left? I like your practical idea of setting and forgetting, I would just have to cap the fitting when it's not installed, presume that's typical?

 

[Mogman]

Well, yeah, that's why I am also looking at the 15psi one lol...but how about the vacuum side, isn't that going to inject jitters in the brain if it jumps from right to left? I like your practical idea of setting and forgetting, I would just have to cap the fitting when it's not installed, presume that's typical?

You will not see any vacuum, at least I don't, maybe if your air filter is clogged which will never happen.

 

[T9000]

You will not see any vacuum, at least I don't, maybe if your air filter is clogged which will never happen.

Great, I can use that one, it looks closer to the stock ones and was thinking to install it in place of the air filter clog indicator (again, got the idea from you, on the wastegate thread

 

[T9000]

Don't forget to drill and tap the crossover for 1/8" NPT for the boost gauge.

Do you have the turbocharger torque specs? For the 5 x Torx screws and the HEX ones on the exhaust side? (you mentioned that the two bolts at the base should not exceed 20 ftlb),

 

[Mogman]

I will look and see if I can find the specs, on "regular" steel steel connections you can look up the fastener specification, thread size/count/grade.
This would be OK for the exhaust elbow.
IIRC it is an M8 bolt.

Very good guide for items that the specs are hard to find.
EDIT, you would reduce the torque by 10% because you would definitely want to use never seize