Help with the S8 Reconnection switch, MEP-003A

[justinn]

Hey Guys,

First off I want to thank everyone for their contributions on this forum. I am a "long time listener, first time caller" and have gained a wealth of information from this forum. I currently own 3 MEP803A's, 2 802A's, and the hell spawn 003A(kidding, but more on this later). I am pretty familiar with the 802/803 variant, and mildly experienced with the 003A.

I am having a problem with my recently acquired 003A. When I bought it, it didn't run, so I couldn't really test anything on it. After rebuilding the IP, then just replacing it(shaft was nicked), I got it fired up and running and generating power. The problem that I am having is no matter the position of the reconnection switch, it's only generating 120V between L1 and L3. L1-LO is 65v, L3-L0 is 35V. There is 120V at the convenience plug. When I bought it, the reconnection switch WAS stuck on the 120V setting, but over time, I was able to free it. It seems like it may be stuck. I have thoroughly soaked in good ol' WD40, but have not slightly separated it to make sure it seems down in to it. Do you guys think the the reconnection switch is "permanent-stuck" on 120V, no matter the position of the selector? When I get back out to the barn, I will separate it slightly and see if I can get some WD down in there.

To clarify the selector does move, but I am thinking the contacts might be stuck or shorted internally... Thoughts?

Thank you
Justin

 

[DieselAddict]

Those switches are a common failure point. It is possible the contacts are frozen. If you search around the forum you'll see how people have gotten them to free up. Most of the time it involves a bit of tappy-tap-tap on the stem of the switch.

If I remember correctly there is at least one thread here somewhere that talks about disassembling the switch. I'll see if I can find something and post a link to it.

All of that aside, there is the option of getting rid of the switch and hard-wiring the output to your needs. This does assume you don't need to switch between 120v and 120/240v.

 

[justinn]

Those switches are a common failure point. It is possible the contacts are frozen. If you search around the forum you'll see how people have gotten them to free up. Most of the time it involves a bit of tappy-tap-tap on the stem of the switch.

If I remember correctly there is at least one thread here somewhere that talks about disassembling the switch. I'll see if I can find something and post a link to it.

All of that aside, there is the option of getting rid of the switch and hard-wiring the output to your needs. This does assume you don't need to switch between 120v and 120/240v.

Thank you for the quick response! That's kind of what I was thinking on the switch... I will try the methods discussed here(loosening the long bolts just enough to squirt some WD40 in there) and the Tippetty tappetty with a brass punch and a hammer.... one man's tap is another man's hard blow though! Anger management aside, I appreciate the help!

Justin

 

[justinn]

Those switches are a common failure point. It is possible the contacts are frozen. If you search around the forum you'll see how people have gotten them to free up. Most of the time it involves a bit of tappy-tap-tap on the stem of the switch.

If I remember correctly there is at least one thread here somewhere that talks about disassembling the switch. I'll see if I can find something and post a link to it.

All of that aside, there is the option of getting rid of the switch and hard-wiring the output to your needs. This does assume you don't need to switch between 120v and 120/240v.

and like you said, I always have the option of hard wiring it to 120/240 although whacking it with a large hammer suddenly seems much easier than tracing all the wires for a hard wire solution. Ha

 

[DieselAddict]

With tap therapy its always best to start off easy.

 

[Guyfang]

As stated above, the S8 is a problem area. There are a number of folks who have taken the switches apart and fixed them. As a mater of fact, there is a thread right now talking about it. What you might do, is change the title of your thread to, say for instance, "Help with the S8 Reconnection switch, MEP-003A" and you might get some more help.

 

[Guyfang]

Go to this thread. Last page, last few posts for some hints.

MEP802A Rollin Coal - Needs Stator

I have been working on a 2002 MEP802A purchased from the GovPlanet auction. Original symptom was no generator output with the engine running. I dug into the exciter circuit, and found the crankshaft sensor was backed out of adjustment. After adjusting to spec, the generator "excites" and...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[justinn]

Go to this thread. Last page, last few posts for some hints.

MEP802A Rollin Coal - Needs Stator

I have been working on a 2002 MEP802A purchased from the GovPlanet auction. Original symptom was no generator output with the engine running. I dug into the exciter circuit, and found the crankshaft sensor was backed out of adjustment. After adjusting to spec, the generator "excites" and...

www.steelsoldiers.com

Thank you! Checking it out now.

Justin

 

[justinn]

As stated above, the S8 is a problem area. There are a number of folks who have taken the switches apart and fixed them. As a mater of fact, there is a thread right now talking about it. What you might do, is change the title of your thread to, say for instance, "Help with the S8 Reconnection switch, MEP-003A" and you might get some more help.

Will do! I wasn't 100% sure it was in the reconnect switch, just about 60% sure I will change it directly!

 

[robertsears1]

You just have to keep at it. Obviously, remove the plastic handle and I think there is a short pin underneath that helps the purchase . I grabbed it with a small pair of needle nosed Vise Grips and kept wiggling. I did loosen the bolts holding it together so the lubricant had a chance to penetrate. It was about a three day process. I now exercise that plus the two rotary switches on the right side of the panel (can’t remember the designation right now) every other time I run my 002 & 003 sets. There is a fine line between enough and too much force. I had neglected exercising that switch a few years ago and sure enough, it froze up.

 

[jamawieb]

I believe the responses to this question revolve around the 80xa series reconnection switch. There is a thread going on the 800 series and also the plastic switch selector is on the 800 series. The 003a you can not take apart for my experience. You need to get the wd40 out of the switch. It will cause issues with arching. You need to be using an electric spray solution. I use the walmart brand but some swear by dexo. You need to tap on the side of the switch and rotate to loosen it. But I have a feeling your issue is the wd40. Your convenience outlet only taps into L3 so almost impossible to be reading 65v and 35v then reading 120v at the outlet. Clean everything up and retest.

 

[Ray70]

Agreed, I have had good luck loosening the thru-bolts holding the switch together, get the electrical cleaner sprayed into all the joints and little spaces around the protruding contacts, then exercise the switch aggressively. Hopefully you will be able to get it cleared up with a couple rounds of cleaning.
If not, I have a spare switch or 2 available if you can't get yours repaired.

 

[justinn]

You just have to keep at it. Obviously, remove the plastic handle and I think there is a short pin underneath that helps the purchase . I grabbed it with a small pair of needle nosed Vise Grips and kept wiggling. I did loosen the bolts holding it together so the lubricant had a chance to penetrate. It was about a three day process. I now exercise that plus the two rotary switches on the right side of the panel (can’t remember the designation right now) every other time I run my 002 & 003 sets. There is a fine line between enough and too much force. I had neglected exercising that switch a few years ago and sure enough, it froze up.

Thank you sir. When I get back out to the barn, I will definitely try to the loosening the bolt method to let it seep in. The switch does indeed move now(albeit not easily), but the voltage is stuck at 120V across L1-L3, ~70V from L1-L0, and ~35V from L3-L0 when in the 120/240V position, so it definitely seems "stuck" internally.

Justin

 

[justinn]

I believe the responses to this question revolve around the 80xa series reconnection switch. There is a thread going on the 800 series and also the plastic switch selector is on the 800 series. The 003a you can not take apart for my experience. You need to get the wd40 out of the switch. It will cause issues with arching. You need to be using an electric spray solution. I use the walmart brand but some swear by dexo. You need to tap on the side of the switch and rotate to loosen it. But I have a feeling your issue is the wd40. Your convenience outlet only taps into L3 so almost impossible to be reading 65v and 35v then reading 120v at the outlet. Clean everything up and retest.

Got it! I never actually separated the switch for the WD40, so basically it's just on the outside of the reconnection switch at this point. I will pick up some of the spray solution as well before I separate, and give it a good dousing with whichever electric cleaner I can find. I did give it some taps while turning the knob originally which eventually seemed to let loose and allowed me to rotate the knob itself with no change in output. I also thought the convenience outlet was just powered off the single lug which is why it was so confusing when none of the lugs were at 120v. This weekend, I will get back at it, but I tested with 3 different meters and they all produced the same results(4 if you count the kill a watt off the convenience outlet). I will do as you suggest with the electrical cleaner first though. Thank you for the advice!

Justin

 

[justinn]

Agreed, I have had good luck loosening the thru-bolts holding the switch together, get the electrical cleaner sprayed into all the joints and little spaces around the protruding contacts, then exercise the switch aggressively. Hopefully you will be able to get it cleared up with a couple rounds of cleaning.
If not, I have a spare switch or 2 available if you can't get yours repaired.

Thank you Ray! I might have to take you up on that offer, but I will try my darnedest to get her freed up and working first.

 

[Ray70]

Yes, try hard because swapping out that switch is not an easy job by any means!

 

[justinn]

Yes, try hard because swapping out that switch is not an easy job by any means!

So..... Many...... Wires......

 

[justinn]

SUCCESS!!! A little WD40(A Lot), a little electrical cleaner(A Lot), a 3/8 wrench to loosen the long screws, and a BFH on the head of the switch(after removing the very Stuck knob), and it switches NORMALLY now(Remember, it still switched physically, but no change in voltage). I now have all 3 positions working with the correct outputs!

Thanks again everyone!

Justin

Switch is still loose as I want to try and "wash" only more gunk out with the electrical cleaner(still have half a can). For those wanting to try this method, I backed the nuts off of the long screws about halfway on the threads.

 

[Guyfang]

You only THINK it is a lot of wires!

 

[Ray70]

Good work! all the spray lube and cleaner in the world is still easier with less damage to you hair from pulling it out, than swapping out that switch, especially if it's the nut and bolt version instead of the extruded thread version!
Congrats on fixing it the easy way!