Keeping a M1009 alive

[CUCV VZ]

Hello all,

I have been on this site for quite some time and have found it very helpful for locating part numbers and guides but it becomes very time consuming digging through forums. I am creating this thread to hopefully get valuable feedback and advice, while tracking my own trucks progress. I am currently in college and have been daily driving my blazer and wish not for a full restore, but to keep up on the vehicle for as long as possible. Below is what I have for a requires attention list:

Electrical :

• Batteries
  • battery tie downs (not the 6TL batteries)
  • battery connectors and misc disconnected wires
• Random voltage drops/surges
• Power drain while driving at higher speeds
• Coolant dummy light intermittent flashing (fried wiring, maybe new sensor)
• Front marker light (turn signal constantly lit)
• Heater switch not always functioning (wiring, bad connection)
• Need glow plug control switch

Mechanical:

• Harmonic Balancer (Seen a lot on this one needing preemptive maintenance)
• Leaking 4x4 Lockouts
• Brakes (literally everything needs a refresh)
• Differentials
  • Reseal rear cover
  • Obtain a serviceable cover for front
• Steering links & ball joints
• New shocks (maybe springs?)
• Trans & Oil seals

Body:

• It's Michigan, who cares?

As of right now I am mostly concerned about the primary electrical issues and locating the random surges and drops. I will follow up this post with another giving further details about my issues.

Please feel free to recommend any other common problems I should be watching out for!
Thanks

 

[CUCV VZ]

Found the root cause of my blinker failure to be the cheap replacement socket I bought from Advance Auto, built out of Chinesium. Can't even find the unit on their website.

Also just discovered the courtesy light below under the dash by accident, was fiddling around with loose wires.

 

[CUCV VZ]

Rewired a new marker socket in - the replacement one above by Dorman was junk: bulb wouldn't seat and grounding wire fell out. ID no. 85830.

Heater blower switch has poor wiring and requires a lil finessing in order to keep running. Dash was removed by previous owner and left behind a rats nest of splicing.

Glow plugs have been engaging every time since new batter terminal connectors, still on factory system.

Next immediate project will be to sort out the two loose wires I have in the engine bay.

 

[87cr250r]

The 12/24v system works fine. Don't mess around with a 12v conversion.

The stock battery trays work with group 27 and group 31 batteries if you're looking for a less expensive option.

If the low coolant light is flashing check for leaking head gaskets by running the engine with the radiator cap and looking for bubbles.

Rebuild your alternators. They're Delco 27SI units. Parts are cheap. Verify your belts are in good condition. Gates brand belts are the only ones that hold up well on these engines.

 

[CUCV VZ]

The 12/24v system works fine. Don't mess around with a 12v conversion.

The stock battery trays work with group 27 and group 31 batteries if you're looking for a less expensive option.

If the low coolant light is flashing check for leaking head gaskets by running the engine with the radiator cap and looking for bubbles.

Rebuild your alternators. They're Delco 27SI units. Parts are cheap. Verify your belts are in good condition. Gates brand belts are the only ones that hold up well on these engines.

For clarification, the truck has unfortunately already undergone the 12V conversion by one of the previous owners. I am looking into 3D printing blocks to better secure the batteries in the trays.

I have to keep everything on a budget as I am still in college trying to scrape by on pennies.

Also, thank you for the recommendations on coolant light. Not seeing any drop in coolant levels (at least noticeable). I will try to investigate tonight.

 

[87cr250r]

Look closely at the battery trays. There are little metal tabs in the bottom that fit the group 31 batteries to keep them from sliding around. I also believe the trays already have blind welded for 1/4 rod for the hold down. You can use the universal hold downs at the auto parts store with these rods.

What exactly was done to convert the truck to 12v? So you still have the alternators? Do you still have the glow plugs?

What glow plugs are in the truck? The AC Delco 60G plugs are the most most resistance to swelling but also require replacing connectors or grinding the spades down. 13G plugs are the original style. Do not run another plugs!

 

[CUCV VZ]

Look closely at the battery trays. There are little metal tabs in the bottom that fit the group 31 batteries to keep them from sliding around. I also believe the trays already have blind welded for 1/4 rod for the hold down. You can use the universal hold downs at the auto parts store with these rods.

What exactly was done to convert the truck to 12v? So you still have the alternators? Do you still have the glow plugs?

What glow plugs are in the truck? The AC Delco 60G plugs are the most most resistance to swelling but also require replacing connectors or grinding the spades down. 13G plugs are the original style. Do not run another plugs!

I am not sure what plugs are currently in, I received a bunch of parts alongside the truck when I bought it, including boxes for glow-plugs. I will give them a gander at some point this week to see if the old ones or new ones are in there and compare to the ones already in.

I may be mistaken but I think I have a 12v conversion as I only read 12-14v on the system with my multimeter and dash voltage gauge. I have the dual alternator setup and a third one that was included in the extra parts - the two installed match, third seems to be a different make. Replaced the belts not to long ago and the passenger side one is stretched already, which could explain my poor charging.

I ran the engine and allowed it to warm with the radiator cap off like you suggested and saw no air bubbles, the coolant did rise and just spilled out rather than filling the overflow container... is that right?

 

[87cr250r]

If you got boxes of glow plugs someone was probably chasing glow plugs failures with junk glow plugs. I strongly suggest the 60G plugs as it is rare for them to swell during a failure.

Does the truck have a ballast resistor on the firewall?

The starter and/or starter solenoid should have a tag that says 12 or 24v.

Yes, it is normal for water level to rise as the engine warms. No air bubbles is a good sign.

If you want to daily the truck you need Gates belts. No other belt held up in my experience. I even had a Goodyear toss itself. They aren't stiff enough. These engines use a second pulley on the power steering pump as an idler and the two belts fight each other. I was getting 25k miles on a set of Gates belts. Much less on everything else.

 

[CARC686]

Unless you're 3D printing battery risers for free, I'd use wood blocks.

 

[CUCV VZ]

New issue has arrived, broken fuel gauge and a whole mess.

Back story, ran out of diesel as my gauge has recently quit working and I have tried re-priming the line with diesel to get the truck to start again. I have bled the fuel filter and have gotten diesel all the way through, however after running several times, the engine would alway stumble and choke itself out. I decided to crack the injector lines and see if I could get the remaining air out. The line retainer nut on cylinder #8 was over tightened and I ended up accidentally snapping the line and breaking loose the injector . All the other retainer nuts came off with little issue.

​

Anyone know of a good place to find a replacement line, before I attempt to make my own? A PN would also be greatly appreciated as well.

 

[antennaclimber]

CUCV Injector Lines
This is for an entire set of used lines. $99

If you can find them, new ones can run from $38 to $56 each.

OFI has some, but not the exact one you are looking for. The 6.5L #8 line might work with some minor modifications.
OFI Injection lines

EBay has multiple listings for complete sets, $ 180 and up.

 

[dougco1]

The 12/24v system works fine. Don't mess around with a 12v conversion.

The stock battery trays work with group 27 and group 31 batteries if you're looking for a less expensive option.

If the low coolant light is flashing check for leaking head gaskets by running the engine with the radiator cap and looking for bubbles.

Rebuild your alternators. They're Delco 27SI units. Parts are cheap. Verify your belts are in good condition. Gates brand belts are the only ones that hold up well on these engines.

Try taking the low coolant sensor out of the radiator and clean it. Also clean the wire connection. You will most likely have to remove the front battery to get to the sensor. It solved my idiot light flashing problem.

 

[nyoffroad]

New issue has arrived, broken fuel gauge and a whole mess.

Back story, ran out of diesel as my gauge has recently quit working and I have tried re-priming the line with diesel to get the truck to start again. I have bled the fuel filter and have gotten diesel all the way through, however after running several times, the engine would alway stumble and choke itself out. I decided to crack the injector lines and see if I could get the remaining air out. The line retainer nut on cylinder #8 was over tightened and I ended up accidentally snapping the line and breaking loose the injector . All the other retainer nuts came off with little issue.

View attachment 928997​

Anyone know of a good place to find a replacement line, before I attempt to make my own? A PN would also be greatly appreciated as well.

If you want to pay the shipping I have the line you need. Do not make your own those lines are a specific inside diameter and length.

 

[nyoffroad]

Going once!

 

[CUCV VZ]

Going once!

I have tried sending a DM but I do not think I have access to DMs.

 

[CUCV VZ]

Finally got around to removing the intake and broken line. Was not prepared for how much of a sludge mess of oil dirt and rat sh*t would be in the valley, did a fair bit of scrubbing and vacuuming to remove all the grime. Did the same with the intake.

Biggest lesson of the day was to take photos to remember how to re-route the fuel lines. After ripping out the set that I needed I put them back on wrong and was wondering why I could not line up the lines into the injectors, due to them being routed over a line wrong as opposed to under the line. But all said and done I was back to square 1 with trying to get the truck to run.

Fuel was still flowing full through the filter and I was getting some diesel through the lines but also a pond was forming in the valley of the block. I will try to remedy this with some plumber tape on the IP threads tomorrow.

 

[jeffhuey1n]

Subscribed

 

[dougco1]

Finally got around to removing the intake and broken line. Was not prepared for how much of a sludge mess of oil dirt and rat sh*t would be in the valley, did a fair bit of scrubbing and vacuuming to remove all the grime. Did the same with the intake.

Biggest lesson of the day was to take photos to remember how to re-route the fuel lines. After ripping out the set that I needed I put them back on wrong and was wondering why I could not line up the lines into the injectors, due to them being routed over a line wrong as opposed to under the line. But all said and done I was back to square 1 with trying to get the truck to run.

Fuel was still flowing full through the filter and I was getting some diesel through the lines but also a pond was forming in the valley of the block. I will try to remedy this with some plumber tape on the IP threads tomorrow.

The injector lines have been known to crack at the pump connection from overtightening. They may also crack from vibration if the lines are not properly supported or seated in the clamps on the valve covers.
I had fuel leaks dripping in the valley as you do. When I inspected closely, I found a few cracked lines next to the nuts. I Replaced all the lines with new ones and the problem went away.

 

[nyoffroad]

Parts on the way, should be there on Wed. or Thursday. Good luck.
Never had to use any Teflon plumbers tape to seal IP lines. Whatever you do, do not get any in where it will end up in the injectors!

 

[CARC686]

The injector lines have been known to crack at the pump connection from overtightening. They may also crack from vibration if the lines are not properly supported or seated in the clamps on the valve covers.
I had fuel leaks dripping in the valley as you do. When I inspected closely, I found a few cracked lines next to the nuts. I Replaced all the lines with new ones and the problem went away.

I'm missing one of those little tabs that hold the hard lines to the manifold, and not LMC, nor Hillbilly Wizard, nor CUCVRUS has spares, so take care not to lose them. If you cut, beat, and drill them out of sheet, let me know and I'll buy some from you.