spankybear
Well-known member
- 838
- 850
- 93
- Location
- WA
I just found out about these right here... Has anybody installed these? Yes I know China,,, and Cheap but they are cheap... Anybody have any thoughts?
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What do you thinkI'm not sure i agree with above statements on 115v over DC, there r other DC units out there if don't wanna order from china but FYI folks, most everything comes from china so goo luck not buying ch as for BTUs n insul , he's right, doing those 1st a good idea. let us know if you do it.
What are we? Guinea pigs?Someone has to try it
85? No those are 95 if they're cheapo. 97-98% for high quality. Victron is in that range. Modern inverters advanced far due to the solar industry.The problem with using an inverter is the loss... A good inverter is what 85% effacement? You will not have that big of a loss with a 24 volt compressor. I have been looking and they seem to be brush less and this would be batter... I was thinking that maybe there is a way in install the evaporator in the stock heater box in the cab. I would install the compressor close to the battery so the loss would be less. I would install the condenser under the bed. Has me thinking at least.
As for China... I am sure the rooftop internals are made there... and so is the inverter... So![]()
Can you link to an inverter that is 98% efficient? I like to know... I would think it would take at least 2% just to run the electronics... then at working temps... I really find that hard to believe you are going to get 98% in real world applications. Heck I find it hard to believe a top tier one would be 95% in real world applications... maybe 90... maybe.85? No those are 95 if they're cheapo. 97-98% for high quality. Victron is in that range. Modern inverters advanced far due to the solar industry.
I am looking a cooling the cab... I haven't built a box yet... have other projects like maybe building out a HMMWV M997A2...Are you looking for a habitat or cab installation?
Characteristics you may wish to consider:
Decibels at max;
Air volume delivered;
Lowest temperature of output air flow;
BTU's.
Cost is likely a statement about quality of components and necessary labor to install a working system—
Efficiency %'s are arbitrary numbers so focusing on that alone is going to create disbelief. It's all about total watts vs total losses. 85-88% efficiencies are 1985 era inverters.Can you link to an inverter that is 98% efficient? I like to know... I would think it would take at least 2% just to run the electronics... then at working temps... I really find that hard to believe you are going to get 98% in real world applications. Heck I find it hard to believe a top tier one would be 95% in real world applications... maybe 90... maybe.
Anyway I look forward to read the specs on one that is 98% . And if it's affordable...
Yeah for sure. I'm not adding an ac until I deal with the cab insulation. It's just an aluminum junction box as is. The roof shade is a huge factor.The issues are properly insulating the cab, using materials to raise the albedo, creating shade above the cab, properly powering the HVAC system whether mechanically or electrically.
Looking at the products marketed to the RV market the small footprint typical DC/AC converters we see, even from Victron appear 88% efficient. Though those units won't support the loads HVAC require. Properly sized units are 94+% and require larger footprints. Still I doubt the existing dual voltage 100a alternator can support starting, charging and running the truck, and running HVAC in the cab with either converted AC or direct DC power. Without a mechanical compressor the electrical system requires upgrading.
From experience building homes I have learned over the years that huge HVAC systems do not overcome poor insulation, large south facing windows and low albedo exteriors. These cabs are very poorly insulated and also have significant glazing.
In our well insulated high albedo home of 2,600~ sqft in the Texas hill country with wide temperature swings (15° - 105°F) with moderate humidity is comfortable with 48,000~ BTU's, about 67% the size the HVAC contractors said was needed.
In an M107X cab insulating looks pretty straight forward using a mixture of common products and layering, interior (sides, floors, roof) and exterior (doghouse). The glazing is difficult to overcome reasonably. Still a well insulated M107X cab of less than 50 sqft shouldn't need 30,000 BTU's unless we are fighting in the desert in full battle gear and protection.
I wish we had found an M1078A1 or A1R with a Red Dot Gen2 unit, though a well insulated, high albedo cab with a Gen 1 should be very adequate. If true I would think a properly powered 12,000 BTU mechanical, AC or DC unit would be sufficient to cool a cab comfortably. Of course, my 'comfortably' and yours may be different temperatures!
I am no expert—
We just stripped the cab out. Adding non truck accessory electrical off the second battery bank, second Victron 24/12v 70a, adding DynaMat and DynaCore sound and thermal insulation, painting the interior, building back wall and ceiling panels, 24v Nomadic x3 AC—Yeah for sure. I'm not adding an ac until I deal with the cab insulation. It's just an aluminum junction box as is. The roof shade is a huge factor.
I need to look into the ceramic tint; we haven't addressed the glazing as yet.Ceramic tint. And Lizard Skin coating for insulation. At least with the Red Dot Gen 2 it's powerful enough to make this comfortable in direct sun with 100 degree F ambient. My truck is three color NATO CARC and I have no cab shade because the HIMARS hatch precludes that option.
We get it, advertisements are annoying!
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!