Banshee365
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Ted's Trucks-N-Stuff in AL. I think the newer ones are thicker.
-Kelly
-Kelly
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Front axle seals and boots stepXstep
- Thread starter Banshee365
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jasonjc
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OD Iron has them toooo
And I perfer the zipperless boots myself
but its all upto the user.
And I perfer the zipperless boots myself
but its all upto the user.
cbvet
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Really well done!
Thanks!
Thanks!
55Cameo
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Why pack the knuckle with 2# of grease? I thought that when you take apart the knuckle assy. all of that grease came from pumping grease through the zerks on the king pins over the years. I can see putting a little on the u-joint to keep water out if it gets in there, but I think that all that extra grease doesn't do anything. I'm not trying to step on anyones toes here, but in the military we didn't pack them full like that.
With all of that said, I think that this is a GREAT write up. Everyone appreciates the time and precision that was taken to do this.
With all of that said, I think that this is a GREAT write up. Everyone appreciates the time and precision that was taken to do this.
chuck500cc
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Get it sticky!!....... 
SpruceDeuce
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wow very very helpful article
quick question do i have to take everything apart like that if i just want to change the boots??
thanks
quick question do i have to take everything apart like that if i just want to change the boots??
thanks
bottleworks
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I believe it's a step that started with the older front axle shafts. The old style shaft doesn't use a U-joint. It has a CV type joint. This joint must have that bath of grease to keep it operating.55Cameo said:
No. You can install the zipper type of boot without tearing everything apart. However, it's a good idea to take it all apart to inspect everything. You must take it all down if you wish to install one piece boots.SpruceDeuce said:
54reo
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If you use the one-piece boots----yes.
If you use the zippered boots----no.
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As BW said, the process of packing that area came about from the older axle designs which brings up an observation, the u-joint axle really isn't properly lubricated with GAA in this app. Something like cornhead grease would probably be better as long as the boots hold it. Check this thread out for a looksee at one of the older axle shaft designs. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=7784
connectingbar
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Seal replacement
I am going to start on a seal in the front and I was wondering , do you have to take it down all the way like this with zippered boots? and is the seal accessible with the knuckle still attached?
I am going to start on a seal in the front and I was wondering , do you have to take it down all the way like this with zippered boots? and is the seal accessible with the knuckle still attached?
Jake0147
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Technically yes, it's accessable with the knuckle on.
Realistically, you still need the axle shaft out, you're two minutes away from having the knuckle off anyway. IMO it's not worth the headache of leaving it on at that point. Then you could use the one piece knuckle boots as well.
Realistically, you still need the axle shaft out, you're two minutes away from having the knuckle off anyway. IMO it's not worth the headache of leaving it on at that point. Then you could use the one piece knuckle boots as well.
Jim Metzler
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Banshee365, This will be a big help..Thanks I'n not going to get it done sitting in front of this computer though.
cleb
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I did some water ops, and am now in the process of replacing my original cracked zippered boots. My gear oil looked like egg nog. Those who have gone with the one piece boots, I assume they keep the water out better? Not that I plan on doing much more work in the river, but it would be nice not to have to tear it apart every time. Also, do the rears get water logged easily? Would putting RTV where the inner seals seat help? I need to tear in and check them next.....
frodobaggins
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Well this sucks. I just spent 45 minutes putting all this in a PDF file, then looked in the Tech Articles section and found one already there. Oh well, here is another PDF of this process just in case one goes missing.
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frodo,
your efforts are not waisted. You just helped lazy a** people like me out a lot. I just downloaded and saved your pdf rather than having to look up the other one.
your efforts are not waisted. You just helped lazy a** people like me out a lot. I just downloaded and saved your pdf rather than having to look up the other one.
frodobaggins
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Cool beans.
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The PDF file is much easier to save on your laptop for future off line reference.
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I agree with Recovery4x4. I have all of the TM's from the resources section saved, and a bunch of other technical information I've found posted saved on the computer so I can look at it any time I need to. Plus it's a lot easier to just print off the pages you want from the TM's rather than have the full manual outside getting dirty and unreadable.
jesusgatos
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Thanks for the write-up. I'm rebuilding my front axle right now and was wondering about those inner seal. Off to find a slide-hammer...
GoHot229
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I just recently did my pasenger side as it was torn.I took mine down nearly the same as how you did. I found the real bear was to get the boot in the groove and put on the clamp (inside side), but then I had a bit of grease still on the ball and groove area, mostly wiped off, but not quite. after it all, I can say its Koshier, as I blessed it frequently during fitting and assembly.