M1009 Door Adjustment

[Incredilion]

I have a set of doors that close, but not all the way. In other words, when I close the doors, they close & latch, and seem tight when first closed. Then, as soon as I hit the first minor bump; both of these doors will go in & out (open/closed direction) about an eighth of an inch. I don't know if the door stiker is worn out, or if I need to adjust something? I can hear them bang close & open as I go down the road; they don't come open or anything, but it's making me a little crazy.
Any ideas? TIA....

 

[1986Blazerk5]

I am having the same problem on the drivers side only. Looking forward to hearing the replys

 

[doghead]

Old collapsed and hard rubber door seals.

 

[OL AG '89]

you might check the striker or the latch assemblies. I noticed on my 1009 that I can SLAM the door and then gently pull it back a little. I figure after 25 years of use these things are a little worn out.
Try slamming and then gently pulling back.
And yes it also combined with possible dried up and hard door seals.

 

[Incredilion]

Door Adjustment

Doghead-
I thought the same thing, bad seals etc, but the seals on both doors are soft & in good shape. On another note, I did your relay replacement today, and it worked GREAT. Just before I did it; I would hit the key & sometimes it wouldn't turn over; now it works perfect EVERY time. Thanks VERY much for that one.

OL AG-
I don't know how to check or what to check on the door latch/striker, and I think that's my issue. Do you know if you can adjust the striker, or the door latch? It seems like it's just not tight enough, when you close the door, it looks like it's lined up fine from the outside, but if you grab either door handle & pull, the door comes out, like I said, about 1/8 inch or so. If I could get that door latch to go in a little, I think it would tighten it up; but I don't think that you can adjust the door striker. Not sure.

 

[ABN173]

Hate to say it but even back when I drove these around as a private (88-90) what you are describing is typical. We always had to fool with techniques to close them, slamming them seems to work more often then not. I don't believe it is a seal problem, mine are in decent shape still but I have the same issue with my M1008.

-Dale

 

[Incredilion]

I think the same way, Dale, that they all have the issue. Mine close, like I say, but they aren't really "closed". There's gotta be a fix for it.
I'll figure it out, and report back to you guys on it.
Chris

 

[tgtaylor64]

Do the striker bolts have the white plastic sleeves? A pack of four will run you under 5 bucks at Autozone. Take the bolts off and slide the new ones on. Greatly helped my doors.

 

[Incredilion]

And we have a Winner!!!

Taylor-
I am going to do this; today! I BET you are right!!!!
I'll post the results.....
Chris

 

[Grega]

Grab the bottom/back of the door and pull up. Any movement may indicate worn door pins.

 

[Incredilion]

Thank you....

Thanks Greg, the pins are tight, that's the first thing I thougth might be the issue. I think Taylor has it right, there's a set of white plastic grommets that go over the striker. I'll find out today...

 

[tgtaylor64]

Fantastic! You will probably have to adjust the door latch mechanism with the three screws. Maybe not. You can also buy the bolts with the sleeves already on if your old bolts are really beat up; under ten bucks. Let us know if it helps.

 

[combat jump]

I have the same problem, and the door seals are fine. The door actually droops at the trailing edge and needs to be moved up.

Has anyone been successful in re-positioning the hinges/bolts?

I could only get the latch assembly to move down 1/8", and its a little better, but he door droop is still the problem.

 

[ranchhopper]

Grab the door and see if it moves up when lifting usually when the trailing edge of the door sags its a worn hinge pin its an easy fix they sell replacements at NAPA. To do it right when buying a CUCV most drivers doors have been opened and closed countless times repin the door hinges and replace the striker bushing the door will close like the day it left the factory.

 

[doghead]

Hmm, I had completely overlooked that they should have a plastic sleeve on the striker bolt.

I did some googling, indeed they do seem to be the most common problem with loosely latched doors.

I went out to look at mine and sure enough, they are missing the plastic sleeves.

Thanks tgtaylor64

 

[ranchhopper]

Get a few of these and the door will close like new.

 

[combat jump]

Good info, Ranchhopper, I also did a search and found info on this. Apparently, Harbor Freight sells a door spring compressor tool. Other sites have how-to's. I'll try this.

 

[Grega]

When you get a set of plastic bushings for the doors at napa, They are the same if it says ford on the package. It will still fit GM but may have to file the ends down as they were made to fit lots of differant models. My have to drive them on with a deepwell socket also.

 

[ranchhopper]

On the striker bushings dont force them onto the pin if you have a drill press put a sharp new bit into it and with your thumb push the bushing inside against the drill bit shaving a little at a time off the inside to make it fit snug. They will crack after a while if forced onto the pin a note of caution when unscrewing the striker bolt back it out a few threads use some PB blaster or WD-40 working them back and forth. The blazer has an enclosed pillar meaning you cant get to the captured nut to hold it so they turn in the pocket and you cannot hold them from spinning if you put to much torque on them removing them. I learned this the hard way years ago and had to use a hole saw to open the back of the pillar to get to the captured nut to hold it tight thats why I see so many striker bolts welded to the door jamb right out of the military. I think the condensation gets to them being in an enclosed space just dont force them take your time.

 

[Incredilion]

Just got back.
Bought the bushingsd first ($3.99) & tried to put them on. The problem was trying to remove both of the washers from the original bolt/strikers. First thinner one comes out easy, the other one didn't.
Went back in (O'Reilly's) and bought two of them preassmbled for $7.99 each, used the thin washers, put them in in the parking lot. My doors are like new.

THANK YOU FOR THE TIP!
Chris