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MEP-002A Fuel Cap ?

woodmann

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bloomsburg/pa
I recently picked up my MEP-002A from Mechanicsburg. I just got batteries and filters. I need to clean the fuel pumps, strainers and tank out.

Any suggestions on tank cleaning procedure?

I was looking at my tank and noticed that I have a "non-vented" cap. Is this a problem or do I back it off a half turn when running (like an old radiator cap on a leaky radiator) or did someone pull a switcheroo. The cap is chained to the strainer.

Probably the first of many questions. Thanks in advance.
 

m38inmaine

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Quote directly from the operator's TM

(2) Make sure the vent on the underside of the fuel

filler cap is open.


If you don't have the TM, it's here in the resource section, welcome to the MEP club.
 
Last edited:

woodmann

New member
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Location
bloomsburg/pa
I have copied the TM and read a good portion of it. MY cap does not have a vent--it has "Non-Vented" stamped into the steel.

My question is how do I deal with the issue. Do I need a new cap or can I run it with the cap backed off. It has a loose spot like a radiator cap about halfway between starting it and turning it fully tight.
 

Carl_in_NH

Member
834
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Location
Wilton NH
If your tank is anywhere near full, running with a loose cap will likely spill some fuel on the outside of the tank as it splashes around in the tank from the engine vibration.

I'd pick up a vented cap for a few bucks (or just run with a less than full tank and cap backed off for now).
 

Speddmon

Blind squirrel rehabiltator
Super Moderator
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Cambridge, Ohio
a lot of the surplus places should be able to get you a new vented cap pretty easily and for only a few bucks. One of mine didn't even have the cap when I picked it up from Chambersburg. I called Delk's and they had a ton of NOS ones they sent out quickly and cheaply.
 

woodmann

New member
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Location
bloomsburg/pa
Carl in NH,
Hadn't thought about the vibration spilling fuel. I'll take your reccomendation on running it half full for now. Need to get it running first. Thanks

Speddmon,
Thanks for the heads up on Delk's. I'm glad to hear that they don't cost much.
 

randyman

Member
56
0
6
Location
Keyser, WV
I just recently went through this same problem. My mep-003a tank was full of rusty krud and the cap (vented) was rusted pretty bad on the inside. I cleaned the tank out as best as I could just scooping the gunk out by hand. I removed the fuel gauge, pick up tube, aux fuel shut off sensor, drain valve, etc. then added gasoline and swished it around and dumped it out several times until it caome out fairly clear. Then I put some clean gravel in it and shook it up for a while (making sure to get some past the baffle plate-it has holes in it). After getting all the gravel out, I cleaned it with gas again. Then I let it dry for a day and sucked the little bit of "dust" that was left with a shopvac with a length of 1/2" heater hose duct taped to it. Everything appeared to be clean so I put it back together, installed it on the generator, filled it with diesel and cranked it up (replaced filters, cleaned fuel pumps and strainers, etc. first). No problems so far. Got a cap (vented) and strainer from another SS member (same as on m35).
 

woodmann

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Location
bloomsburg/pa
Randyman,
That sounds like the proper way to clean it out. Mine appears to not have much rust but it does have some kind of white pastey gack inside. Hoping to cut it with gasoline and agitation. If not, I'll be washing a few handfulls of gravel to toss in. I was afraid that it would be too hard to get it all back out.

Bill W,
I really appreciate the pictures--now I know what I should be seeing on the underside.

Thanks again everyone for your input and advice.
 

randyman

Member
56
0
6
Location
Keyser, WV
woodmann,

Mine had the "white pastey gack" also. I had to use a toothbrush and gasoline to get it all-gasoline didn't dissolve it by itself. Other members can correct me if I'm wrong but I think it is some kind of bacteria or its byproduct that grows in diesel fuel. My hands aren't too big so I was able to reach in and get the gravel out. Just takes patience to get it all back past the baffle plates. Good luck.
 

woodmann

New member
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0
Location
bloomsburg/pa
Randyman,
Did you strip out the fuel float and pickup tubes, etc when you did the gravel shake?

Panic button,
Would the pressure washer knock the rust scale off the sides and bottom?

Thanks
 

randyman

Member
56
0
6
Location
Keyser, WV
woodmann,

Yes, I took off all the "fittings" that thread into the tank and cleaned them seperately and put a plug in the drain valve opening.
 

jbk

Member
404
5
16
Location
livingston la.
i remove the drain valve, gauge and float then use a preasure washer to clean. then i use a blower to get most of the water out . set it out in the sun for several hr. to completly dry . this has worked well for some rough tanks. this process will also expose holes if the rust is to bad i had to solder a few tanks .
 

panic_button

New member
88
1
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Location
Emerald Coast, FL
Randyman,
Panic button,
Would the pressure washer knock the rust scale off the sides and bottom?

Thanks
Be careful with the pressure washer. When I did mine it cleaned it out almost to bare metal, my washer has changeable tips, my downfall was using a too narrow tip (15 degree), the 40 degree did a great job.

As in the above post remove all fittings and sensors it makes it easierr to clean and dry.
 

Kermit The Frog

New member
4
0
0
Location
Crestview FL
Fuel tank cleaning

Glad to learn that pressure washing works. I was thinking about doing that but I was going to put a 90° elbow on the end of the wand to get the sides better.

I am not a diesel person but the fellow I work with is and he suggested putting a biocide in with the fuel. That should keep the crud from growing.

I just picked up two MEP003's, one for $1100 and one for $400. He took the $400 one and is working to see if it is going to generate power. We did get it to run for a few minutes. One problem was the ground to the chassis was bad. Used a jumper cable lead as a temp fix. Pumped fuel through the filters and pump until we got clean fuel. I never knew diesel would turn like gasoline and smell like turpentine. No telling how long it had been in there.

Joe
 

oshpunit987

Member
34
0
6
Location
Bethesda, Ohio
I cleaned mine out with 3 or 4 pounds of 3/8 nuts with some gasoline and shook it on all sides and also took everything out of the tank so it wouldn't get beat up. I was surprised at how well it cleaned it up.
 

derf

Member
926
13
18
Location
LA
If it has the Bacteria or Algae or whatever you will want to clean it thoroughly or you will have problems down the road.
I would try to find a steam cleaner first. Failing that I would stop by an auto pressure washer place and try high pressure water.
A radiator shop or machine shop can probably give it a good dip cleaning, but they may not want to touch it if it is CARC painted.
 

LuckyDog

Member
394
11
18
Location
Freedom, NH
Heres a picture of the vented ( Fording ) cap that came on both my 003A's AND my M-37....go figure
Been working on getting my 002A running. Runs for a spell then makes a lot of racket, black smoke and stalls.

My question is: Which position of the tab is open and which is closed? Should the tab be up on the high lands or turned 90 degrees to that?

Don't know if venting is the problem or not but I can't tell if the vent is open or closed.
 
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