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Adventures in WMO

hemichallenger

New member
363
2
0
Location
deland fl
I finally got started with WMO today. I've had a drum in the garage for some time, and picked up a cheap-o HF hand-crank barrel pump (that may prove to be the weak link). Got the filter and housing from NAPA as indicated in other threads here.

Once the pump was assembled, the biggest challenge was getting a hose from the pump outlet pipe into the filter. Had to step down 4 times from 1" to 3/4" to 5/8" to 1/2". Rig looks like I'm keeping hose clamp companies in business.

Cranked out about 1/2 QT just to see what it looked like. Still awful black. I wasn't expecting golden honey but I thought it would look a little clea:grin:ner.

Set a 5 gal. can under the outlet hose and started really cranking. Got maybe a gallon into it when I notice some drops leaking out around the crank handle. Could it already be backpressure from the filter causing this? The oil is pretty cold, maybe 35 degrees this morning and was just under freezing all night. I assume it would flow better when warmer.

I'm going to crank out some more later and mix in old gas from the boat and power tools that has sat all winter (maybe 5 gal max?) and dump her in the deuce. What could go wrong?
:-D
I think once the oil is black it stays black even if it filtered to 1/2 micron.
 

Varyag

Member
927
3
16
Location
Garfield, Washington
I got one of those cheapo hand pumps from northern tool. I drilled and tapped in a 1/2 inch shaft bolt with a 3/4 head onto the post for the crank. Then I put a old nasty 3/4 inch drive socket on my cement mixing drill I got for 12 bucks at a yard sale.

I can empty a 55 gallon drum pretty fast and only blew up one hose in the process.

I am at about 600 gallons and going with this setup.
 

A DuB

New member
5
0
0
Location
West Palm Beach, FL
The only way i know to get black motor oil back to its "honey" color is to run it through a centrifuge. If you can find one cheap, it would pay for it self over time with the ammount of money you yould normally spend on filters.
 
365
3
18
Location
Anderson Creek, NC
This was a very tough decision for me, and for many folks, the single significant deciding factor between buying a A2 vs a A3 with fuel prices today. (Of course, you need to consider if you plan to single it out or not--if going to singles, it is a no-brainer to start off with the A3). With much thought I finally decided to go with the A3 due to physical limitations taking precedence over free fuel. I'm very happy with my A3 and the Allison auto and air assist steering, but it sure is hard to beat free fuel! Perhaps I should get into the bio-diesel thing from WVO. I don't mind smelling like fries going down the road.
 
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Josh

Active member
1,678
12
38
Location
Portland, Oregon
Oh yes. Forgot to mention, Dont skimp on the hoses. I bought 1500PSI hose for my oil system. Where the barbed fitting are, I use 3 clamps to be safe and I swap out the filters soons I hear my pump struggling to pump the oil. There is a clear differance in the rate the pump cycles when the filter starts getting clogged.
 

panshark

Member
544
11
18
Location
Idaho Falls, ID
jc, maybe one good thing about a hand crank is that you may be able to tell something's up if it gets hard to crank. Whereas with the machine-driven pumps, you won't know until you hear or see something. I think it's a good idea to be wearing safety glasses when I'm transferring with anything other than gravity-feed or hand crank. I just don't want to find out what some of the waste fuel I'm handling feels like when it's in my eyes.
 

sp00n

Active member
162
26
28
Location
Huntsville, AL
I've got a question for you guys about WMO>

If you are changing the oil in your vehicle and KNOW the catch pan for the drained oil is clean, would you still need to filter the WMO before putting it in your Deuce tank? Sort of a "fresh from the tap" situation instead of scavenging it from an unknown barrel.

When it warms up I'm going to change the oil in the Deuce for the first time and it sure would be nice to dump all 5 gallons direct into the tank. Oil on the stick looks clean and theres no crud buildup on the stick or oil cap, what I can see of the valves via the fill cap looks pretty clean too.
 
I've got a question for you guys about WMO>

If you are changing the oil in your vehicle and KNOW the catch pan for the drained oil is clean, would you still need to filter the WMO before putting it in your Deuce tank? Sort of a "fresh from the tap" situation instead of scavenging it from an unknown barrel.

When it warms up I'm going to change the oil in the Deuce for the first time and it sure would be nice to dump all 5 gallons direct into the tank. Oil on the stick looks clean and theres no crud buildup on the stick or oil cap, what I can see of the valves via the fill cap looks pretty clean too.

I have read many people on SS doing this. Am interested in the response...Same questions when doing an oil change on my Superduty. It also has 4 gallons of oil.
 

panshark

Member
544
11
18
Location
Idaho Falls, ID
it would be a good idea to put a strong magnet to it before pouring in your tank, if it's your 1st change then you don't know what kind of metal shavings are going to drain out. At the very least, let it sit for a couple days to let it settle to the bottom of your bucket, and don't empty it completely.
 

fuzzytoaster

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,299
3,132
113
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
I've read many times if you know the oil is good and clean then dump it in the tank. It wouldnt hurt to filter it down to 10 microns as thats the stock filter size but might not be necessary. I haven't filtered anything that I changed from my other automobiles before I put it in the deuce's tank. I just let it sit for a few days in the sun (in closed container) making sure that anything questionable would sink or float. I didnt see anything bad and the deuce loves it. No problems.
 

Varyag

Member
927
3
16
Location
Garfield, Washington
I dump it into the tank. Stock filters will catch the crap. I filter the other stuff I get from mechanics and farmers, but not the stuff that comes strait from the engines.
 

Varyag

Member
927
3
16
Location
Garfield, Washington
jc, maybe one good thing about a hand crank is that you may be able to tell something's up if it gets hard to crank. Whereas with the machine-driven pumps, you won't know until you hear or see something. I think it's a good idea to be wearing safety glasses when I'm transferring with anything other than gravity-feed or hand crank. I just don't want to find out what some of the waste fuel I'm handling feels like when it's in my eyes.
I got drenched because of this. Safty goggles are a must. I was wearing them and got hit in the face with a very large solid stream of motor oil. My neighbor spilled her beer laughing while watching and then brought me one.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
755
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
Spoon and others, I filter everything before it hits my tank. As simple as I can put it, I use filters in my WMO filtering system that are cheaper than stock deuce filters. This saves money in the long run. PLUS I don't get clogged filters on the road and have to change them in the emergency lane.

Yes you CAN go right into your fuel tank, but IMHO, it isn't a good practice.
 

JCKnife

Well-known member
1,367
46
48
Location
Kentucky
I got a line on a full barrel of free WMO, so today my son and I headed out in the deuce. She already had about 5 gallons of WMO from home and I didn't know how much diesel because the fuel gauge is less-than-accurate.

I cranked 20 gallons through the filter and was surprised to see the tank nearly full. From there I removed the filter and just crank-pumped 30 more gallons (almost) from his barrel into mine. Wow, I couldn't believe how much faster and easier to crank without the filter in-line!

When I started her up to leave, it started out running just a bit rough at idle, so I splashed in 2-3 gallons of diesel on top...but with 25 gallons WMO max in there, it's 50%-50% or thereabouts. After that it ran smoooooooth, and in fact I was saying to myself, "It's almost TOO quiet, can that be right?"

I noticed too a little less power on the hills on the way home, is that normal?

No incidents either way, though, except taking 20 minutes to back in my driveway (backing a M223 trailer is SUCH a pain!) (oh, and my helper fell asleep on the way home!)

Pics:
 

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kc5mzd

Member
481
1
16
Location
Texas
If you dump your used motor oil into your tank without filtering it you should wait to replace your fuel filters.
The in tank pump runs and constantly circulates the fuel through the fuel filters.
Halfway through the oil changes replace the fuel filters.
This will give longer run time on clean low restriction fuel filters.

Only use WMO in a multifuel diesel. Not any other Diesel engine. The multifuel has a special injector and piston design.
In a non multifuel diesel it will clog the injectors which spray a very fine mist into the combustion chamber.
The multifuel sprays a larger stream of fuel into a pocket in the top of the piston.
 

panshark

Member
544
11
18
Location
Idaho Falls, ID
JC, I would be betting that your slight loss of power might be more temperature related than anything else. On a fine Kentucky day when it's 85 degrees and 90% humidity, I doubt you'll experience any loss of power. Might want to throw a few gallons of gas in the tank to thin it out a bit more. Your results may vary.
 
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