Rear Diff Smells like a Sewer PLUS: ID these diff parts???

[mobileauto2000]

I limped one home on the front diff with only one good axle.

Had a spool in it.

Talk about torque steer.

I would replace the axle if I had made the repair. Employes do stupid thing but a good shop will stand up and make it right.

Call them, tell them what happened and if they don't make it right sue them. Checking the fluid is a basic part of the job like tightening the bolts.

Pro 20:13 Do not love sleep, lest you come to poverty; Open your eyes, and you will be satisfied with bread.

 

[Matt1031]

My 79 Blazer came stock with 3.08 geared 12 bolt. 12 bolt rears are not hard to find at all and it would be a little bit of an upgrade over a 10 bolt (1980-ish is when GM switched to 10 bolts in Blazers) Watch Cragslist and you will see people are selling 10 bolts for next to nothing - they are hard to sell because not too many people want what is essentially the weakest 1/2 ton axle Chevy ever put under a truck.

Going rate in my area for an open 10 bolt truck rear is about $100. You won't have a locker, but gov-loks are notorious for blowing to pieces at the worst possible moment (hence the nickname "gov-bomb") so no real loss there. Like I said, 3.08's aren't hard to find, so you shouldn't have to look for long. They are so cheap used that they aren't even worth rebuilding. Blow one up, buy another complete rear. It's a waste of money rebuilding a 10 bolt, unless it's an oddball axle width (which your 1009 is not) or if you want to keep a working Gov-lok (which your 1009 does not have).

You're looking at $150 tops and an afternoon to install it. Count your blessings you aren't searching for 1 ton front axles - that's when things start getting expensive.

 

[wikallen]

If the "new" axle made grinding noises and locked up within a mile, I doubt it was from lack of oil. Also, don't count on being able to add oil to it, and it having it be all "ok". Noises and grinding in a rear end will take a rebuild to fix it.

For what you spent on buying, shipping, and installing the "new" axle, you could have found a guy to rebuild what you have, and have a warranty.

Where did you get the axle from? Did you open the axle to inspect it before you had the shop install it? Did you ask them to open the axle and inspect it? IF it was sitting around a lot at some surplus yard, who knows what was going on inside of it. Also, installing a complete rear does not require a lot of tools, or a lift. Just a jack and some large jack stands and basic tools.

Time to suck it up, and either pay out money, or learn to work on it yourself. Keeping an old vehicle and paying others to keep it running is going to cost you a lot of money.

 

[ODdave]

IMO, 12bolts are not worth the swap. I have never seen any proof they are stronger, Yea they have 12 bolts on the ring gear but there smaller bolts.....Parts are harder to find and more costly. If you want an upgrade, put a 6lug 9.5in 14bolt with a lockrite in it. MUCH stronger.

 

[WARWAG]

You can find NOS Gov Surplused rear ends for $300. These are essentially new rear ends with all new brakes and bearings. I would pick one of those up and re grease the bearings and bolt her right in. Good Luck. Oh yah you will need to fill it with diff fluid.

 

[WARWAG]

Here you go:

Rear Axle Assembly, Chevy/GMC, U.S. G.I. [750201] - $395.00 :: Colemans Military Surplus LLC - Your one-stop surplus store with Army/Navy products for hunting gear, camping gear, emergency products, and survival products

 

[WARWAG]

I was a bit off on the price. $395. The great thing is everything will simply bolt up.

 

[notsosanestan]

hey check out my 10 bolts prior to 1 ton swap!

 

[WARWAG]

Ouch!

 

[wired1000]

That's the thing. The NOS rear end assembly I got from another SS member (for $250, but I had to ship it from NJ to Chicago which cost more than that). Should have been simple.

I can now CONFIRM that the shop that put it in did NOT fill with gear oil. It looks like there wasn't any damage... Lucky I stopped as soon as I noticed the noises starting. We will have to see. I will report back when I know for sure.

 

[Stalwart]

If there were noises, and the heat you described, there WAS damage! It might last a while but it will fail before its time.

 

[wired1000]

Like in 1000 miles instead of 100,000 miles or like in 70,000 miles instead of 100,000 miles? Guess that depends on how bad the damage was, huh...

 

[Stalwart]

You are correct in your last thought. I'd keep a close eye on it and change the oil in it after 250-500 miles, you should have a clue to its working life by then. If there is no metal chips, you JUST MIGHT have dodged a bullet. My guess is that you have scored the ring and pinion as they have the most shearing forces. Something had to make the heat you saw.

 

[jj]

My father bought a new '65 Belair wagon in 1966. A leftover, i think. Very similar axle. He had a lube job done in summer 1968 and someone forgot to tighten the plug on the axle. It vibrated out and the axle splashed itself dry. I remember rolling down the road saying, "Dad, should the car be smoking like that?" The car was towed, the axle was re-filled and plugged and we drove that car into the early 1980's. With a bearing singing the whole time. True, it was a broken-in axle with some lube oil residue left, but it got hot enough to smoke sceen. You might get similarly lucky. No harm in driving it and seeing what happens.

 

[DokWatson]

A guy from the local wheeling community told me a story about the infamous 'Chevota'. It was a Toyota cab on a Chevy half ton frame and running gear. It wasn't supposed to be a serious wheeling truck, just a beater to **** around with and beat to ****. Well... he ran both open differential 10 bolts WITHOUT covers offroad for almost two years.

If there aren't any chunks when you drop the cover, I'd be willing to bet you are fine.

 

[wired1000]

No chunks. No singing or howling noises at highway speeds. The shop offered to inspect it and replace the bearings... should I bother or just try to get them to reimburse me for the tow? At this point I'm not very confident in their abilities, but then again I have made bonehead moron mistakes like this before and don't want to be too quick to judge someone else for the same type of thing.

 

[WARWAG]

YES have them replace the bearings!

 

[mobileauto2000]

The bearings will not be the problem. Without lube the gears will be what gets damaged. The ring and pinon slide across each other. you need to make sure they are not scored or they will go away fast. The bearings roll on the race and in one mile probably have no damage at all.

Mal 3:1 "Behold, I send My messenger, And he will prepare the way before Me. And the Lord, whom you seek, Will suddenly come to His temple, Even the Messenger of the covenant, In whom you delight. Behold, He is coming," Says the LORD of hosts.

 

[KsM715]

Had it towed to a different shop as the first one did not offer any warranty (not their part, I provided it) and I suspect that they did not fill the axle with oil before installing it ....

I've read and re-read this thread a few times and I'm a little confused.

Did the shop you had it towed to do any work at all on the axle after you had it towed there? When you opened it up and found the smell and the parts, was this done at the second shop right after you had it towed or was this at a later time when you opened it up. The reason I ask is you state that when you opened it up, the oil smelled funny. If the first shop didnt fill it with oil then there would not be any oil coming out when you opened it?

 

[Terracoma]

I believe the original axle that was native to the truck had the foul-smelling gear oil and broken parts.

The NOS replacement axle was provided to the first shop by the OP, and the first shop was attempting to absolve themselves from any responsibility. However, they failed to ensure the axle was filled with gear oil, and now they're attempting to remedy the situation by offering to replace the bearings on the NOS axle.

Doesn't seem like the second shop has touched the truck, yet.