NAPA part #'s for m35a2 oil filters????

[cessnatwin]

1970 M35a2 multi-fuel part numbers needed to get oil filters from napa or carquest! Anyone know them off hand???

 

[WillWagner]

OD Iron LLC Military Vehicle Parts and Accessorieshttp://www.acrolights.com/

 

[Snarky]

I can get stuff ordered and in my hands quicker from NAPA than OD Iron. The OD Iron folks are nice, but they are slow to ship stuff out and the shipping is slooooooow, like ridiculously slow. Like I'm still waiting on parts I ordered last month slow.

I used to know the correct numbers for this thread but I lost them. And half the information out there conflicts because people get in a hurry and make typos. All I can really tell you is to search and find the numbers that seem to agree a lot...

This list is SUPPOSED to be correct, but I'm not sure if it was when I ordered. Steel Soldiers :: Military Vehicles Supersite

 

[m16ty]

I got a set from NAPA (don't recall the number off the top of my head) but the gaskets were wrong. I've heard of other people getting the wrong gaskets. I reused my old ones and now have a leak . Think I'm fixing to go with jatonka's setup in the near future.

OD Iron has been known to be slow getting stuff out. If I'm getting stuff for a future project that I don't need too fast I'll go with OD Iron. If I need it fast I'll call Memphis Equipment.

 

[Beerslayer]

When searching for Napa oil filter part numbers it took me 45 minutes of careful search and LOTS of reading to find the part numbers. This thread had a great title and came up in my search first, so I am updating it with some part numbers. These are all reported to have the correct gaskets.

Napa FIL 1133
WIX 51133
Carquest 85133
Fleetguard 25051133

 

[m816]

Do your self a favor and get the adaptors and filters from JaTonka. Then you won't have leaks and no more mess when changing the oil and the filters are redily avaiable. It really is worth the investment. Also I just got a couple radiators back from the shop and learned something good enough to pass along. It is a good idea to change a couple gallons of your antifreeze when changing the oil in your MV. Seems that when the antifreeze ph gets down below 11 it begins to get acidic. When that happens it eats the lead in the seams and you get leakage in your radiator. Below 7 and it gets real bad. Don't be fooled , just because it is still "green" Check it with the litmas paper for acidity.. The guy at the radiator shop said if you change a couple gallons at a time, you don't have to replace all of it and you still have the protection without flushing the whole thing. Saves a little cash with a large capacity system.

 

[M35A2-AZ]

1970 M35a2 multi-fuel part numbers needed to get oil filters from napa or carquest! Anyone know them off hand???

Cesenatwin, I used Wix filters and they came with the right gasket #51133 and the Napa # 1133.
I think Wix make them for Napa.
WIX Filters : Filter Look-Up

Hope this helps?

 

[Beerslayer]

Do your self a favor and get the adaptors and filters from JaTonka.

I totally get that, and know and understand all of the reasons why this is a great idea.

I know you mean to be helpful, but this thread however is about the correct part numbers for the stock filters and is for people looking for that item. I will buy the adapters and filters from JaTonka when I can afford them, but right now...

$4.76 per filter from Napa on the second Saturday of each month is the deal I can afford today.

 

[wiggall]

I have the NAPA part # for the corect NAPA gasket, but it is in the truck, and I will have to get it later!

 

[wiggall]

The NAPA part # for the correct gasket is 5039 and the come 2 to a package, and 1133 is a good # for theNAPA filter but it comes with the wrong gaskets.

 

[Deuce_of_Spades]

Someone should make a sticky for this one question! Sure would have been a lot easier.

 

[doghead]

You can make all the personal stickies you want.

This info should be in the Deuce WIKI/FAQ

You can always write the info on paper and put it in your truck(or wallet)

Just searching for it, is not hard either, and it's good practice.

 

[ARYankee]

I've also created a parts database that I can email you. You can search it by NSN, Part description, or category. Plus you can add to it as well.

 

[Prankster]

adapter mount

I would like to have a bolt on adapter for a spin on filter.
I have Chrysler flathead-6 with a engine mounted adapter that uses a spin on filter.

Dose anyone know of such a part, and where to find it?

 

[leopard_colony]

I suggest using the hex plugs on bottom of stock oil filter mount before removing the cover. Those plugs are for draining the oil out of canister. Otherwise it goes all over when you loosen the hollow bolts.

Also, height of gasket is critical. The thin fiber ones work best. Sometimes you get a thicker rubber gasket which doesn't work, IIRC. No question a thin fiber gasket combined with rubber gasket WILL leak. You need to feel a distinctive ledge when reinstalling the covers. Otherwise it isn't centered and will leak, sooner or later. New washers at top of the hollow bolts are a good idea also. Manuals show a spring and cap arrangement to seal top of filter cartridge. So you should feel the spring push back as you install the covers. Cartridges do not seal against cover, so far as I can determine.

 

[3dAngus]

I recall Machinest going through this the other day with secondary filter gaskets.

When they look it up, they have to precede the number with "fil", where the secondary filter gaskets are FIL 5070.

The 5070, which was a known good number, did not work and he had to make two trips to NAPA.

Might be the case with the rest of them, so you might want to keep the "FIL" prefix in mind when shopping at NAPA.

 

[DieselBob]

I would like to have a bolt on adapter for a spin on filter.
I have Chrysler flathead-6 with a engine mounted adapter that uses a spin on filter.

Dose anyone know of such a part, and where to find it?

Like these...JATONKA MULTIFUEL SPIN-ON OIL FILTER KITS

 

[stutzcattle]

Good info....Thanks

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

. Seems that when the antifreeze ph gets down below 11 it begins to get acidic. When that happens it eats the lead in the seams and you get leakage in your radiator. Below 7 and it gets real bad. Don't be fooled , just because it is still "green" Check it with the litmas paper for acidity.. The guy at the radiator shop said if you change a couple gallons at a time, you don't have to replace all of it and you still have the protection without flushing the whole thing. Saves a little cash with a large capacity system.

Thats absolutely incorrect. At a PH of 7 a solution is neutral, below that is considered acidic exponetial (a PH of 5 Is 10 times more acidic than a PH of 6, PH of 4 is 100 times more acidic than a PH of 6) and anything above a 7 is Alkaline or caustic. You would never want a PH of 11 in any system containing copper or brass as stronger an Alkaline solution will break it down. Copper is safe around 6-9 the same PH that is ok to send down the drain. cabon steel and iron are fine to run in a pure 50% solution of sodium hydroxide at a PH of 14 and would never ever dissolve, infact it would remove all rust and oxidation from them, but brass, copper aluminum would react violently.

That is correct that the solution can become acidic and wouldnt hurt to add new coolant but DO NOT keep your PH at 11. i am not sure what the ethylene glycol comes in PH wise out of the bottle, i can check it with my meter today if i remember i just flushed my cooling system in my deuce. i would expect to find it somewhere around 7-8. if you made any coolant an 11 your aluminum radiator would be gone in a few weeks i would think.

For every 18 degrees water increases in temperature, corrosion increases by 10%.

 

[doghead]

All glycols produce acids in the presence of air (oxidants). The acids can
reduce pH and cause corrosion. When the system pH drops below 7, rust will form on
any ferrous metal, and nonferrous metals start to corrode. For HVAC applications,
glycols are formulated with passivating and buffering corrosion inhibitors to counteract
acids formed by the oxidation of glycols.​

System Monitoring: Glycols can typically be expected to last 12 years or longer,​

providing corrosion inhibitor strength is maintained. Inhibitor analysis is usually offered
as a free service by glycol manufacturers.
Glycol fluid pH can be a good barometer for the condition of the glycol. Although the
pH is primarily a function of the corrosion inhibitor and, therefore, will vary from
product to product, a few rules of thumb are helpful in determining what constitutes
proper pH.
Most concentrated inhibited glycols have a pH in the range of 9.0 to 9.5. A pH reading
below 8.0 indicates that a significant portion of the inhibitor has been depleted and that
more inhibitor needs to be added.
When the pH falls below 7.0, most manufacturers recommend replacing the fluid. A pH
value of less than 7.0 indicates that oxidation of the glycol has occurred. The system​

should then be drained and flushed before severe damage occurs.