Anyone removed the run-flat inserts from M101A3 tires?

[bob95065]

I was wondering if anyone had removed the runflat inserts from the tires on their M101A3 trailer. Will this increase my mileage when towing the trailer on the highway? Does anyone know the pros and cons if it is possible?

Bob

 

[doghead]

One con, you'll loose your runflat ability.

 

[Sierra51]

Another "con" is if you lose enough air pressure....or a catastrophic loss of air pressure the tire is going to come off the bead rather quickly....and possibly roll off the rim completely....the 16.5" rims have a 15* bead angle where as others have a 5* bead angle....the run-flat in conjunction with the bead lock "donut" keeps the tire secured to the rim in the event of a loss of air pressure such as a blow-out....

 

[derf]

I'd keep the beadlock inserts on the proper rims. They are part of a system that you probably want to keep whole.
If you want lighter wheels get some GM Aluminum takeoffs and put trailer tires on them. Truck nuts are constantly "upgrading" their light factory Aluminum wheels for gaudy wheels that are uglier and heavier.

I found these with a quick search for $200:

 

[Sierra51]

If you do contemplate doing what dref said above....just make sure you get rims that are 8 on 6.5"....as many of the newer style rims are 8 on 170mm....just "off" enough to make a difference....would really suck to mount tires on the rims and then they didn't fit....

 

[derf]

If you do contemplate doing what dref said above....just make sure you get rims that are 8 on 6.5"....as many of the newer style rims are 8 on 170mm....just "off" enough to make a difference....would really suck to mount tires on the rims and then they didn't fit....

Yes, "dref" recommends making sure a rim will fit before purchasing it and mounting a tire on it.

 

[Sierra51]

Yes, "dref" recommends making sure a rim will fit before purchasing it and mounting a tire on it.

Awww sorry derf....fat fingers, glasses and semi-opposing thumbs....so if you held it up to mirror....

 

[derf]

Bold, too.

 

[Sierra51]

Awww sorry derf....fat fingers, glasses and semi-opposing thumbs....so if you held it up to mirror....

Today 23:02 derf Bold, too.


LOL!....I was referring to myself....so does derf = fred?....Paul

 

[derf]

Today 23:02 derf Bold, too.


LOL!....I was referring to myself....so does derf = fred?....Paul

Yes Derf = derF.

 

[SETOYOTA]

you can remove the run flat and your tires will not come off the rim HMMWV guys have been running the 12 bolt wheels for years and many many many miles without the tires coming off. I have never even heard of that and have been dealing and driving HMMWVs and H1s since 2000. it will roll smoother with the run flats out also

Too remove you can use a rathchet strap to compress the runflat into a figure 8 shape and pull it out. You can also use a engine hoist to pull them out or you can just cut them and take them out

 

[derf]

I remember them being tough to get out. I trimmed 4 of the donuts for use on narrower wheels.

 

[Sierra51]

Well then the question is why are Schedule 80 plastic sleeves used in place of the rubber runflat/bead lock combo?....those that have run the Hutchinson 2 piece rims without the runflat almost automatically replace the rubber components with the plastic sleeve....if you haven't had a tire separate itself or partially separate from the rim more power to you....the way I look at it is I would rather feel more comfortable going down the road or trail knowing the tire is going to stay on if I lose enough air pressure....short of course than if it took an anti-tank round or something of that magnitude....

 

[derf]

I suppose the plastic is lighter than the rubber, and easier to cut to width.
I also suppose off roaders like to run lower pressures for greater traction and hitting a rock or something might break the bead without the beadlocks in place.
Most "off road" style vehicles never go off road, though, and some like the "off road" look without the functionality. I've seen fake beadlock rims, and I don't understand why anyone would want them unless they are posers.

 

[number9]

I removed the run flats out of one set of mine. They were a flat PITA to get out. I ended up putting BFG 33x12.50-16.5 tires on the trailer. Had a heck of a time getting them to take a bead but they have given me no issues since putting them on but I ain't let the air pressure get down low either.

I know they HAVE to make a difference and I can feel it in just pulling the trailer, those 37x12.50 with the run flats are HEAVY. WAY heavier than the BFG's I installed.

...

 

[bob95065]

Guys,

Thanks for the advice. The reason I posted the question is my truck gets 23 MPG on the highway. It is a 1997 Dodge 2500 4X4 with a 12 valve Cummins diesel engine with the 5 speed manual transmission. When I drove down to pick up the trailer I got 23 MPG. On the way up it dropped to 18 MPG. That is 5 MPG or almost a 22% reduction in mileage. I expected to use more fuel but not that much. Also my exhaust gas temperatures at 60 MPH are usually around 500°. With the trailer I was at 650°. The engine is working much harder with the trailer behind the truck.

When I inspected the brakes I was amazed at how much the tires weighed. I put one on a scale and it weighed 165 pounds. The extra weight has to affect the mileage because the inertia required to get that kind of weight rolling and keep it rolling is high.

I bought this trailer primarily for firewood. I do expect to take it on long trips, for instance my church builds homes in Mexico and that trailer would be an asset on a trip like that. The added fuel useage would make a difference in a trip like that. If I dropped the empty load I could haul more wood too.

My truck has rims with the same bolt pattern as the trailer. This is one of the reasons I went for a M101A3. The tires were brand new when I picked up the trailer. Because of their condition I don't want to change them. That's why I asked about the insert.

If there is any concern of the bead unseating from the rim wit the insert missing I'm leaving it alone. When I load wood I load heavy and I don't want to risk loosing a load around a corner. From what I am reading it seems like the options I have are buying new rims and tires or running the OEM tires as-is. I think I'll leave the trailer alone.

I will say there is a big advantage to the 37" tires. They will roll over about anything. That trailer will go places my truck can't go. The lunette allows articulation a ball would never allow. This is the best firewood trailer I have ever seen.

Thanks again for the info.

Bob

 

[rogerm101a2]

dodge 8 lug rims will work on the trailer or any chevy 3/4 ton rim. i think anything newer than a 2010 will not work because chevy changed there bolt pattern! and you could sale the run flats. there are alot of people that want those! just a thought

 

[harleyhouse]

Get a matching set of the Dodge wheels, Then you will have both.
When I picked up my trailer, I used 1/4 tank to get there and a full tank back.
I sold the wheels and tires for 1/4 of the trailer price. I changed to a 2" ball mount and put matching rims and road tires on and now she rolls smooth.

I am building this trailer for a family camping trailer with chuck wagon kitchen, water tank, roof top tent and extras.

One other factor is the wind resistance of the wood racks.
I removed mine and the mileage is better.

 

[Fudge0514]

Bob,

I took the runflats out of my wheels on my HUMMER because of all that darn extra weight (my runflat/beadlock piece weighed in at 45 lbs). I did install the beadlock only insert (12.5 lbs) though as I am running two piece wheels. The two piece wheels don't have the same lip on the wheels as the one piece wheels and really require use of a beadlock or runflat/beadlock, especially if you air down your tires at all (like for offroading). The one piece wheels do not require a beadlock since the safety lip is more pronounced. However, you really can't air down (15 was about the lowest I'd go back when I had one piece wheels) as much because the bead isn't locked.

If you are keeping your trailer on pavement only and keeping the pressure above 25 you're probably pretty safe to remove the runflats. However, they can be good if your tires go flat, hence their purpose.

 

[Andercomm]

Having never taken apart a 'run-flat' before - I was wondering what is the standard 'run-flat/bead-lock' piece made out of...?

Like most - I have Goodyear MTR Hummer 37x12.50x16.5 tires on my M101A3 trailer. The rims are 12 bolt design.

I have seen different materials offered for sale on the 'run-flat' pieces - rubber, PVC plastic, even magnesium...but which one is inside my trailer wheels right now do you think?

William