Recent content by 3rdmdqm

This is perfect! Thank you! The TM I have that I got off the site does not list all these part numbers.

I'm rebuilding my steering box. It's a Ross TA box. The worm gear is in decent shape as are the races and bearings. The sector shaft is showing wear. I also believe the sector shaft bushings need to be replaced (have also posted for parts in classifieds). Question is this, if the sector...

In case anyone was curious about some of the internal parts of the in-tank pump, see below. The metal clip that was spot welded to the side of the pump housing which secured the ground cable from pump to bracket came off. I decided to utilize one of the screws that secures the bottom of the...

These are all the components for the fuse box in the first pic. Note the pin in the second pic. This your ground connection pin. Make sure the hole is free of rust and paint before you you place it in. It is a press fit, I used channel locks to seat it fully. 3rd pic is assembled pins. Next...

And for anyone that is curious to know, there should be 6 of the aluminum shims (called volutes) inside the bottom well of the pump. If you do not have enough shims/volutes to create a proper well that covers the impeller, the pump will run but you will not pump fuel because the impeller just...

I have also completely cleaned all the internal parts, terminals and connectors under the fuse cap, as well as stripped and repainted the fuse cap itself.

Ok, I've pretty much figured this out. Hopefully this helps someone else in their endeavors. To get to the wire, you have to cut off the aluminum clamp ring where the braided wire hose meets the fitting. The braided hose then slides back (it stretches and contracts) exposing the wire. The...

Need help. I have read thru most, if not all, of the threads on the in-tank pump, however none cover this specific question. I have removed the pump from the tank and cleaned it up. The metal braided wire goes up from the pump, up into and thru the bottom of the cover plate and attaches to the...

Outstanding information! Thank you, came in handy as I just completed my short style rebuild. I too have the mystery o-ring. Only thing I missed and am worried about is I lubed the entire thing with air tool oil. Everything. Now I'm worried about having to take it apart and redo with DOT5...

This is awesome! Thanks! I just did a complete rebuild of my short style air pack. I have a question and am wondering if I did something that will result in me disassembling the Airpack again or if it should be ok to just let it slide. After completely cleaning everything, I lubed everything...

So all snapped off bolts have been drilled, tapped and replaced with new stainless steel bolts. What was left of the broken rivets/heads were drilled out and replaced with new stainless steel 3/16” diameter x 3/8” grip rivets. All good, primed and ready to paint.

For those using Behr paint, has anyone painted their exhaust stack with it? I'm curious as to how the latex paint reacts to extreme heat, i.e. does it hold up, turn gooey, melt off? I'm ready to paint my stack but wondering what will happen. Thanks.

Current situation, hopefully this helps someone else. So, pitpawten you are correct, there are two steel thread bars riveted to the inside bottom of the top frame channel, one on each side. The rivets on mine had rusted/rotted on one side and partially on the other, which meant the bar on one...

That is very kind of you sir, thank you so much. What would the shipping cost be to 21797 area code? I see Pitpawten is in need also, I am going to try to use a scope camera and see if I can fish the thread bar into place and snag with bolts and re-rivet in place to make mine work. If I can...

Is an M37 outer frame the same as/fit a M35a2?