Recent content by ClarkeF

Thanks for picking this thread up again! You are motivating me to find my 802A’s mysterious oil leak. I’ve sidelined it for the past year and a half as I picked up a Kubota 10k, but I hate running it as it’s a 3600 RPM screamer… looking forward to following along again!

Please add me.

I know a guy who did amturbo transplant into a NA truck, but I'm not sure about the exhaust mating. The NA muffler has heat shields that will need to be removed or cut back as they hit the t-case when it is pushed back into the NA muffler by the longer 4L80E. You might just just go and have a...

1 - engine, serpentine belt and related accessories (cooling pump and fan are different vs the 6.2), exhaust downpipe from turbo, 6.5TD engine harness, exhaust modification to match downpipe, 1/2" body lift for a-beam/turbo intake clearance (some people get away without, but you will never get...

Quick eyeball will tell you if you have 7-ton (sorry Action, I couldn't resist), I mean 7k or 10k and that is to count the number of ribs in the boot. 3 ribs? 8K (technically 7.7k). 6-7 ribs 10k (or 12K - but that's unlikely unless you bought a 12K truck or swapped out the shafts - and if you...

That's the wrong winch controller. The hydraulic controller is yellow. You will need to re-wire the connector for it to work correctly. first confirm in and out by jumping the pins without the controller, then using an ohm meter figure out which pins need to be swapped in the cannon connector...

pictures of the rear spring and upper perch would help. See if you can local a tie-wrap around one of the spring coils - it will likely be painted over if the springs are original. The color of the wrap will tell what spring rate it is.

Original post had bad advice - I was thinking 12K truck, not 10K. As Greg and Steve point out below it's a 10K truck and if it already had the variable rate springs you are good to go.

You might check your half shaft fasteners and see if you still have the old bolts with split washers or have been upgraded to the 15mm bolt heads with Nordlocks. Use high-temp loctite Red 272 (not the usual 271) on the threads. Torque to 57-58 lb-ft.

The 1-piece runflats used in the 12bolt and later wheels do not move around - they are clamped into position between tire bead and wheel. Some of the earlier 2-piece runflats used on one-piece Hummer wheels would sometimes come apart. Those RF only locked one bead. The problem with these is you...

It's pretty hard to bleed out the air with just a mechanical fuel pump that's active only when cranking. Some people will pressurize the tank to push fuel up to the engine to make it easier to bleed (there is a ventline with a check valve that would need to be blocked - or the check valve...

2A - Generator armature circuit (main positive line) - goes to AC Sense 3B - Generator ground circuit 74A - Starter solenoid circuit (actuating) from switch or relay 81A - Battery positive feed from starting motor toward STE/ICE connector

those are not ECV's - the motor will be a 6.5 NA, not a turbo based on the engine cover and does not have the extended nose and cooling stack. They are A2 trucks: 4-speed with park and OD, upgraded parking brakes, 10k weight rating, high back seats - standard stuff. The doors are standard frag...

This is an incorrect statement. They are NOT "just like" a standard 16.5" tubeless wheel. The 12-bolt wheels are designed and intended for use only with with either a runflat/beadlock combo or a beadlock. (As an aside they are also DOT approved in this configuration). The difference between the...

your best option is to pull the head and have a machine shop is similarly equipped person remove it. If the GP is still sealed in place and providing compression, I'd leave it be and run with 7 GP - it just means a little extra rattle and will start fine in almost all conditions. Not worth the...