Recent content by Dabba

Mine has long since been gone. Another reason I'm having the shop do it is because they have a history with the starter as well as drilling/tapping new holes in the block. Their work, so figure let them do it. If they cant find an easy replacement ill look for one. I think my more major issue...

Luckily my memory is better than I thought. Converted back to 24v. Being one battery was near dead this didn't stress the starter too much. It's at the shop now. Hopefully Monday they can swap the starter and check the glow plugs. Was impossible to start at 0 degrees and very hard today at 30...

I did that. I want to convert it back. I have the relay in the glovebox. I just want to confirm on which terminal on the firewall the starter wire goes as the truck melted a battery connector. I'm 95% sure I'm right and it was just a bad connections. The truck has a habit of corroding battery...

It turns out I may get it towed to the shop. It's cheap, and there's a foot of snow on the ground so I'm not doing the starter. Anyone have a part number or good model for a reliable 24v replacement?

So awhile ago my shop replaced my starter with a 12 starter and I converted it by pulling the starter wire off the firewall and placing it on the front battery and did the dog head conversation for the starter relay. Anyway truck didn't start on only 12v and I took the starter wire and placed it...

Glad everyones alright but I probably would have killed the guy. There is no salvaging her? Even with money from his insurance? :\

Try a tap with a hammer, or just have it rebuilt? I imagine whatevers wrong will get worse one day

Broken Starter bolt. Have fun drilling it out. I couldnt, cost me 3 hours of labor at the mechanics. Dont try to start or use the truck until you get it sorted out. and yes the brace is a must. Mine rattled loose.

Yeah, I learned quickly my seals in my dana 60 are bad. I really dont want to replace them so.. no more dunking. Plus yes, replacing starters all the time is a pain in the azz. Who would think electric motors don't like to be submerged? haha

I sent him the link to ck5. Wheeling until stuff breaks is fine if you want to risk it, and have the time/money/friends to get yanked out. But I think upgrading and PM before **** breaks is the better way to go.

Just want to make sure and ask, the m1008 has the same leaf spring setup as the civy k30 right? My packs are original and rusty. Nothing so bad but just old. Im wondering if I'd get any lift by replacing them. Ive also wanted to do a ord shackle flip in the rear and 4" lift to the front, but Im...

if you're going to mud, do the axles first. I hear a lot of guys snapping 10 bolts when they suddenly get traction from spinning.

If you're doing strictly mudding, I think the k30 varients are way too heavy, even a k5 is too heavy. Ive gotten stuck and no one but a wrecker could get me out. Full size bronco and pathfinder at the same time. Im content to watch and recover others now.

Do you see how often people break **** on their stock k5s? There's a reason people are always swapping in 1 tons in place of the 10 bolts. Same goes for the th400 or 465 over the 700r4. Theres also a reason they call the rear posi in the m1009 a gov bomb. They are capable trucks for sure but for...

Aye, I sold my civy k5 for the m1008 because I wanted something I knew would last through some mild wheeling and punishment, and so far it hasnt let me down. But everything has a limit. I wouldnt be pounding on the blazer that hard, the cucv isnt really much stronger than the civilian one