Recent content by ehuppert

If i recall correctly there's also ground wires in rear between light housing assemblies and body

Very common, seen this issue for years, here and elsewhere. Think it's just the way the circuits are. Eventually "fixed" mine by switching in a OEM gauge assembly. Prior though, mine always glowed dimly. Even with dim glow voltage was good. I eventually stopped worrying about it. Not...

No diagram, but btdt more than once.... I use a 3" cutoff disc and make three slices to make a "flap" I can bend up to access nut. When job complete fold flap back down and weld shut.... Doesn't need to be exact, but neatness helps! Eric

The running lights front and rear should be on same fuse. So if front is working the rear should also have power. Brakes are a seperate circuit. Sounds like a wiring or ground issue. Check the wire harness connector in the rear end and check voltages there. You can also try hooking up a...

I took the 6.2 out and replaced with a small block. Did that twice (CUCV and a 82 C30) Stock diesel exhaust stayed in both trucks..... So, don't know about hangers or SB "exhaust"

Way back when I used pex on the strike latches which helped. When I rebuilt/restored my truck I picked up some bronze bushings from the hardware store and installed on the posts....

I had an issue on right rear lights. There's a ground wire under the light housing that the metal attachment point was gone! It's been a bit, but believe theres ground points/wire for both rear light housings

I know the CUCV factory exhaust bolts up to SBC exhaust manifolds. Not certain on the BBC pipes. Typically I look up part numbers vs different applications to research, but walker has discontinued the down pipes so reference data not as easily available.

Sorry, when I had burning mouse nest I removed blower motor assembly under the hood (not heater core cover) With blower motor out i was able to get all the debris out!

If debris is coming out when blower on rodents have left a nest in there.... Would strongly suggest pulling the resistor out of the heater core cover and make sure debris not packed around the resistor. I had a fire in my truck years ago when letting it warm up to plow.... Looked out and cab...

Off topic, but relevant! Swapping gauge clusters will require moving pins around in the gauge connecter (if changing to cluster with oil pressure etc) Would suggest replacing the plastic connector (Ron Francis PC18, apx $25) as they do get brittle. Mine had a broken clip which was causing...

I've used the Hella conversion headlights with H4's on numerous vehicles. they provide a substantial improvement and are right around $100 for the set. I did install them on my 1008 along with headlight relays and improved wiring (to include ceramic headlight plugs). Much better than the sealed...

I believe the alternators WILL charge regardless if lights are working. A quick blip of the throttle to increase rpm's will initiate charging.... I replaced the CUCV cluster with a civy gauge package cluster and moved wires around in connector to make everything work! (has voltmeter now!) I'm...

When you state "brake pressure" are you talking about low pedal, poor stopping, or spongy pedal? Actual hydraulic pressure to rear cylinders will be the same regardless of cylinder size. Braking "power" (stopping ability) may diminish due to wrong size, but hydraulic pressure in lines isn't...

Guess I'll add some fuel to the fire..... If the charging system is charging, truck is starting etc., i personally would focus on other services like brakes, suspension, fluids, tires etc. If you're restoring the truck to original from a "purist" position that's one thing. If you need 24 volt...