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For some reason I can’t make a link, so I just bumped up my thread for you a few hours ago. It may give you an idea of what you’re looking at even though it was very hard to get pictures that are easy to comprehend. Search “M925 winch control tower repair” and it should pop up, or maybe somebody...
I forgot about the issues with these junk control towers, I’ll see if I can dig up my thread on beefing mine up. This can cause problems of not being able to fully open the spool valve and not achieving full pressure.
I did a bunch of modifying to my hydraulic system during my dump install, but...
The pumps will not likely be worn with the little use they see. Pressure test will tell you if you have a problem. If your pressure is under 1700psi, let us know, I can post a link to my dump bed build that covers how to shim the pressure relief higher.
Correct, no shear pin on the hydraulic units that I’m aware of.
The only real thing to check is the hydraulic pressure, 1800psi and 1800 engine rpm max IIRC. I have never been very impressed with the power of mine and have a pressure gauge taped in on mine. Similar to your experience, with...
I have no idea if these are hard to prime pumps or if yours is just wore out, but sometimes packing the gears with petroleum jelly or possibly light grease does the trick…
It’s supposed to be a lot warmer the next few days. Might be worth waiting to test them again incase there is a chunk of ice in the brake valve that may just need thawing out.
According to Memphis, front is 18k, and as others alluded to rears are 44k, so 22,000 each on those. A lot of good advice here on other limitations besides the axle capacity.
Do you have any more info/description on “play in the shifter cable”, or “not going into reverse smoothly”? IE, did you have to work the shifter back and forth, play with the throttle, just took a while to engage? Was the play on the transmission, or shifter end of the cable?
Theres no chance the transfer-case was in low range is there? I believe there was an MWO that installed a low range reverse lockout on “most” of these trucks to prevent shifting into reverse while in low range. If the seller is very experienced with these trucks I would be a little leery if this...
Hey Ken, keep at it you’ll figure it out!
Yep, that looks like a bad design with way to much weight hanging off those brass threads. Any chance thats a nipple broken off in the tee-block, If so hopefully replace it with a steel or stainless nipple? If it’s a moulded piece of the tee block...
Some good looking welds, but be careful welding all those seams up solid, or things will start looking like a banana! There are a lot of excellent seam sealers and panel bonding epoxies out there so you can keep the welding to a minimum.
Do you have this data plate on your truck?
If so, and I’m reading the blurry text correctly, you should have all the verbage you need to be able argue any legal weight trailer combination, just as long as it does not put you over any of the trucks rated axle ratings as stated on the plate.