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That's clean. Where did you install your ground disconnect? I'd like to do the same but haven't settled on a location for it. Would like it somewhat hidden, like in the back of the battery box accessible in the right rear passenger foot well but then again I know myself on how this will play...
Thanks Mogman. I did see info it the 6.5L turbo but had no idea if it was a civilian only or industrial version or such that wouldn't fit on a green machine. I'm guessing from your posts this is a direct fit for a mil 6.5L turbo...
But to SB's point, it does look in good shape and doesn't...
This IP came in a 'gov box o'stuff' so no idea if it's even good but at least I'd like to know what it's used on. Random bits of info on the interwebs says it's a direct replacement for the DB2831-5079 which is the 6.5L Turbo version but the -6282 isn't listed in the usual Stanadyne docs...
Thanks, CAMO- appreciate the suggestion. I may reserve the $$ until I know my 1097A2 is road worthy before I start lobbing short-fuse dollar grenades at her.
I'm now wondering since I'll be up in it if I should change out the associated coolant hoses. I looked online, it seems most sellers...
Roger. I was quite surprised when I pulled out the fitting and clean, green coolant came out. But I'll dump all do a good flush and inspect the pipes/hoses while I'm up in it. Good call on removing the pipe to inspect.
Yes, absolutely. This truck had "No Oil" on the windshield that was...
Still slowly doing fluid changes and a thorough PMCS on my new-to-me 1097A2 before I get it on the road. Today's task was inspecting the cooling system which had no liquid in the coolant reservoir. Dropping underneath to check all the hoses for leaks, cracks, etc, I noticed the Tee for the...
Short answer is you have lots of options.
Military spec batteries are big and heavy because they want to have a lot of reserve power to crank under extreme conditions (really cold) and with engines that are hard to start (i.e.- require lots of cranking time for various reasons) and sit in motor...
No shims that I can see.
I'm moving this conversation to another thread I started about my x-doors in general as the conversation is redundant. Here's the other thread for reference: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/my-first-time-with-x-doors-any-specific-advice-or-improvements.224882/
I'll combine another post here as I originally posted about why there was double-sided tape on my helmet top right above the hard doors. Members said it was probably from stick-on rain gutter/deflectors which makes sense. But when I posted a pic showing my door position, I was informed my doors...
After power washing the truck pretty good, I can the doors are in better shape than I originally thought. A lot of what I thought was damage or delamination was actually moss and lichens(?) that came off leaving a fairly good surface. I'll add some pics for input.
I also noticed I have keyed...
I took a pic of how much the doors jut out from the edge of the helmet top door bevel. Seems to me the helmet top design would be way better if the top of that bevel extended out another inch to allow water to flow towards the outside edge of the door instead of allowing it hit the seals. But...
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