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Not much to it, it’s all in the prep. If you see something questionable, fix it and don’t get in a hurry when spraying, it might take several applications to avoid runs. You got this!
Basic paint prep and tons of sanding to include heavy degreaser and using a hot pressure wash. Paint and primer are single stage urethane that use catalyst and reducers then shot through a cheap Lowes HVLP gun.
Been absent for years from this site, picked up a R1 last November. I just dropped in a used engine and have mine running and driving now.
I am in the process of putting a slant back on it and painting the interior.
It does have a head, it's round though, kinda like a hilock fastner or regular wheel stud, there was no hex and the shaft is splined like the one in the picture you provided
No safety wire was harmed or involved in this method. When I had mine apart, I didn't see any safety wire what so ever. I never said the reason I needed to "beat" on the drum, but to eliminate the assumptions, it was due to the drum not coming off square. There is only one inspection hole on...
Well, I just had the same problem with my A2, the TMs and everybody else said I had to remove and axle, I also spent alot of time reading prior posts to see if any tricks were out there. I don't know everybodys set up and I know there is a wide range of differances. I just changed my wheel...
No, the truck is not an A3 variant, its an A2. I did not remove the generator yet, I installed a new parking brake cable and springs on the parking brake. I bought a fluke meter that measures current by placing a wire in between two prongs on the meter. Whats odd is the only amperage that...
I understand what you are saying, but as I stated, my truck was refurbed in 1991 meaning it is older than 1991. The title I have states that its a 1991 (I know civ titles may not be 100% accurate), I do not have a dataplate in the cab that tells make/year, just MWO tags that have "91" stamped...