Recent content by Piatheem

Can we use solar to help the 100A alternator? I run two battery setup and they are AGM. If I were to install two panels on the habitat solely for truck batteries and two mppt chargers that should help the alternator right? As a bonus, I will have a constant trickle charger. I am in CA, so sun is...

Yeah, I changed the oil, ran the generator for 20 minutes, and checked the oil level again and it was pouring from the fill hole. I'll try running it on gas, and see if that fixes the issue.

Ok, it has been almost 10 years since this great thread was started. Thank you @Overdrive for an excellent writeup. Just want to confirm that following is still true in 2025 for A1 trucks: 1) Three times flush is still the best way to replace HDO with ATF. 2) Looks like TES 295 was replaced with...

Too bad, I checked the needle valve in carb and replaced a fuel pump which is apparently a common cause of fuel in oil, but that did not change anything.

Spent some time diagnosing the engine break, there was a massive air leak at the pac break. The fitting was very loose. Once leak was fixed, the engine break started to engage. I have ECO hubs and it looks like it only engages if I am going faster than 28 mph.

That would explain it, I was going probably 30mph. The warmup does turn on and off. My RV also had an engine break, but it worked differently, it did not switch transmission and it worked at any speed, so I am a little confused by how it's supposed to operate on an LMTV.

I have a 2004 a1 and my retard function stopped working. I’m trying to see how it should work so I can properly diagnose. Here is what I observed: - the warmup feature works, I can hear it and light comes on, I’ll visually confirm if the valve moves. - when I switch retard on while driving...

So is ground just a battery negative or pin 5 on the ecm?

Hello, do you happen to have a diagram on how you wired the switches? Thank you.

Yep, great point, I took the carburator apart and checked the float needle, cleaned everything, but that was not it. I think my problem is a fuel pump. The vacuum line had fuel in it. I ordered a new fuel pump, hope that will solve the smoke and fuel in the oil.

It does have a spark plug

I am new to small engines, I did take it apart yesterday. I did not see any preheat mechanism.

I am having the same problem, lots of fuel in the crank case both on gas and diesel. Is there any way to fix that?

I did a spontaneous purchase of INI Power Systems IG1000-ICMF. I’m a little confused on what fuel it’s supposed to run on. The internet says it can run on anything. The label says JP-8 only. Can I run it on diesel? It did start for me after several tries, but it smokes a lot. Anyone knows what...

it doesn’t unload with the engine not running, but I was able to trick it, by starting the engine, waiting until compressor unloads, shutting it down and then hooking up the shop compressor.