Recent content by Ronmar

Yea what General said…. put some weight on and try it down hill:) empty truck on level ground will slow down and drop out of EB sooner…

no fuel at the primary probably means it is sucking air instead of fuel. 1. check the primer is pulling suction. disconnect the input fuel line at the primer, put your finger over the inlet fitting to the primer to seal it. push in on the primer it should stay in as long as you hold a seal on...

Yea the TCU will drop out of exhaust braking if it senses an impending stop, the same as it drops out of lockup. a member here posted a video showing his holding ex braking(and i am assuming TC lockup) down into 2nd, but I suspect he was decelerating VERY slowly for it to maintain that situation.

Not the first time I have heard that... the CB's seem a little janky anyway. i kept a few for troubleshooting as they are kinda handy when searching out an intermittent short, but replaced everything in the panel with standard auto blade fuses. Too bad you can't do that:( Glad you figured...

Look on the back of the switch itself. Like on a relay, the pins are typically numbered there...

Are the surfaces flat? I use a flat file to draw file mating surfaces flat(pull file perpendicular to the long axis of the file like a draw knife), to reduce any raised areas… For paper gaskets I have used a spray sealant called copper coat for decades when needed. Hang the gasket on a hook...

One is in the front of the transmission case, down on the passenger side(input speed code 2214)), the Turbine sensor code 2215 is in the valve module inside the transmission and that whole module must be dropped to access that sensor. The output speed sensor(code 2216) is in the transfer case...

I suspect you meant to type 2215 instead of 2255(there is no 2255 code)? all the 54 series codes are ratio failures. If the 22 code was 2215 then I suspect you may have a bad turbine speed sensor or wiring fault… Or you have something causing clutches to slip, but slippage would not cause any...

I extended the top frame 18” using the front lift arch I removed from behind the cab. That is about in the middle of the exit angle of the box so the total length from end of original frame length to back habitat wall is 33.5”. I am forecasting ~35 degree exit angle from the face of the rear...

Yes,, 22” of habitat space thats NOT hanging off the back end of the frame:)… is a bit of work, which is why you don’t compromise… remove it all and push the habitat all the way forward to the cab latch and make good use of those 22 hard won inches. Scrap the AOP and valve, I basically...

I think JBLM is where my 1079A0 finished its service as I picked it up from Auction up in Lakewood off bridgeport way... Had the word "shops" stencilled on the front so I suspect it was a pool vehicle used as a big rolling tool box...

no not specifically. There should be a diagram in your documentation somewhere to ID which pin is which for a particular switch connector. I typically confirm the pins using wire numbers to be sure of what I am looking for.. if you can pull the connector it should have 4 or perhaps 5 wires...

OK, 3041A and B are the k1 and k2 coil ground wires. 1548 is the 24V ignition switch power in from both IGN switches to the coils of k1 and k2. If neither ign switch works and CB45 is passing power, I would look to the inside remote disconnect switch under the drivers dash or somewhere along...

I don't have that exact diagram in front of me right now but if I recall one side of relay K1 and K2 coils is connected to ground. the ign switch power for both inside and outside ignition switches originates at CB45 in the power panel, and is delivered to the inside remote battery disconnect...