Recent content by Ronmar

1. front gladhand leaking is either a bad 2-way check-valve under the drivers floor(top one) or the system charge check valve down in the bumper below the red gladhand. When you apply air to the red gladhand when towing the vehicle, it applies park air to release the towed vehicles park brakes...

@AzOutback What General said. fairly generic part if i recall. Buy 2, if you cooked one under the dash, odds are you cooked the other one down by the engine also... Good Luck!

There is the one under the dash, and I think the other one is back near the ECU?

OK, well fast cycle indicates it is not building any hydraulic pressure so stuck check valve or bad seal on the hydraulic piston, or having low oil has sucked a bunch of air and it has not purged it from the system(air in the system = no work = fast tunk tunk tunk). Not blowing oil out the air...

Well the air exhaust filter(sintered bronze) looks clean and no oil on top. I suspect a cracked box. It’s plastic, they have been known to crack… what is the oil level in the box? Is it above the pickup tube level? when you push the air button what does the pump do? Nothing? Single...

Increasing pressure will only increase speed if flow also increases. IE: it is the volume flowing into the cylinder that determines how fast the piston/rod moves. Pressure determines the force generated by the piston pushing the rod(PSI X piston area = rod force) the safety checks don’t...

And I suspect they will not tell you that info... They like to keep their info to themselves, and unless a customer tells you about it... My hand pump is faster than the AOP:)

Yea there are some things that really don’t require automation to perform very reliably, in an excessively adequate fashion…

Had to make/modify a socket to get at the drivers bolts, and had to pull the exhaust heat shield plates on the passenger side, but the cylinders came out OK… It was a bit of work, but it wasn’t horrible:)

@kendelrio that drawing is missing stuff, with the nato plug, there are three 24v leads. Nato, PPD batt and Start solenoid and two grounds nato and start motor… The battery layout is correct . When standing beside the truck facing the battery tray. The closesest terminals are neg/ground...

Search this forum for battery wiring or dropping to 2 batteries, you will find one…

Yea the hand pump works great, and is dead easy… i have done 3 videos on the one I chose… here is the first one…

Follow the wires… there is a diagram on the inside of the battery box lid. That shows placement and interconnection, but the only way to be sure you have the right cables connected to the right place is to follow them. there are three 24v cables. one to the starter solenoid large terminal...

There is only one thrust bearing, or the newer style thrust bushing, not both...

So there was no thrust bearing in there at all like in the very first picture at the start of this thread? What does the back side of the center carrier look like? The clutch piston is a ring shaped piston, its inner and outer seals are down below that disc with the holes and springs under...