Recent content by Ronmar

Well that would still leave all the preceding wiring(battery to starter and alternator hot, and since it is buried in the middle of the truck, not as easy to access and install…

I am thinking the switches are simply backlit, and do not indicate switched state(thats in the indicator panel). Could be just light passing thru the switch lense at a different angle…

Yes interrupting + 12 and 24 at the batteries is a good place to do it, thats how they did it on the A1… the issue with using a single interrupt on the ground leg, is it is not completely safe for maintenance. It will keep any individual 12or 24v circuit from flowing current but there is still...

Mmmm wireless...:)

Well because of all the e1s and e2s you are going to have to trace out the cables anyway… you have two ground leads, one to the starter, one to the nato plug. Connected to the 2 battery terminals farthest from the frame that are jumped together. you have one 12v lead to the polarity box, it...

If you had a 12v alternator with an isolated ground(ground as a second output, not attached to its chassis), you could put it in series with a normally chassis grounded alternator, just like you can wire two 12v batteries, or 2 solar panels in series +to-. The batteries would be connected - on...

From what I have seen from Allison, they made that change somewhere in 95. the fact the A0 has no 12v switched ignition power pretty much confirms what you are saying, that none of the LMTVs are 12v only. Based on the year I was thinking it was possible, but the 24v only ignition aspect just...

There is no point really. I think ~95 the Allison went from 12v only to to 12 or 24v input, As mentioned new LED lighting doesn't really care. 24v only gauges are a little less available, but they are out there. Even our own gauges on the A0 are bastards, 24v gauges with 12v lighting…...

The problem is you don't have a 12v side and a 24v side, you have 12v out of the middle of 24… in this case it is a basic arithmetic problem Voltage on batteries in series is additive. IE 13.65 + 13.65 = 27.3. 27.3V coincidentally is the standard 24v regulator voltage setting and 13.65V per...

Well in the original system the hand pump will only pass fluid when you pump it. If fluid wasn’t returning to the hand pump, that sounds like a clogged return path that forced all returning fluid to the AOP. bleeding is fairly simple, lower the cab fully, disconnect the base end hose, place it...

the only one I can think of like that was a custom rig called the dual alt, but like the other dual alt configs proposed to replace our dual volt alternators, it suffered from the same series wired independently regulated alternator issues(impossible to maintain balance). Not sure how they even...

Yea but that is just the opposite scenario. Lowering the tire is like lowering the cab, it only takes a little fluid to get the tire or cab over the balance point… When raising the cab, the cab passes the balance point and finishes extending the rod end fully. This pushes that fluid back to...

Or you could partially restore the added volume of the original 2 reservoir system. Reconnect the line on the manifold valve circled in green to the bottom of a vented reservoir, and replace the vent on the pump with a sealed plug… also, you need to make sure you get all the air pockets out of...

That can’t happen unless your tires are over ~85 PSI or you are drawing CTIS air from somewhere else. CTIS(and the fan) pulls air from the protection valve and it wont let air out of the wet tank unless the tank pressure is over 85PSI…

Load and battery control DEVICE… No balancing whatsoever… it is a Polarity Protection Device(PPD) like used on the A0 trucks, with 2 added circuits. One circuit monitors alternator RPM(AC signal from reg) and 28v output. If the alt goes over 1500RPM but not over 20.5, it sends a signal to...