Recent content by The FLU farm

I don't remember now, but did the starter work if you "screwdriver started" it?

Are you indeed getting good voltage to the solenoid? I really don't like replacing any parts, no matter how easy it may be, if they don't need to be replaced. Okay, I'm lazy.

I doubt that anything high flow would run well off the rear hydraulics. My low flow snow blower runs okay, though.

There are a few things where I've read "You must do this or that". For the most part, so far I've successfully just done it, without doing "this or that" first. Not sure the air cylinder is one of them, since I've never worked on one, but it does sound doable.

No reason to rush these things, right? Jeez, I thought I could procrastinate with the best of them, but you have me beat. Badly. Besides, why tilt the cab to check the air shift stuff? (I'm also lazy, so I tend to do things the easiest way, as long as the result is still the right way).

Everything is relative. If you're sitting somewhere along the side of the road with gelled fuel, using 911 sure beats walking. If the fuel isn't gelled, there's all kinds of other additives that will clean, lube, etc.

I used an electric fuel pump as a trouble shooting tool, for a while, on the parts SEE. But a 12 Volt that I had. Not that I remember why, but you shouldn't use the 911 unless it is an emergency (gelled fuel). If it's still in the tank, you may want to drain the tank again. Unless that only...

I haven't locked mine out in a long time, since I feel that touchy loads are better moved with the suspension working. At least on less than flat ground. But as I recall, push the clutch in and pull (or push?) the yellow button behind the passenger seat. What I don't remember is if you have to...

Is there fluid in the rear hydraulic tank?

If you need extra lifting, don't forget that a pair of Hi-Lift jacks can be used in the corner pockets. I've never tried lifting the end of a container with the backhoe, so I don't know how well that works. But I'll be moving two containers here pretty soon, and the HMMH's forklift is out of...

While I understand your quest for perfect timing, aren't there too many potential variables? Let's say that the balancer's markings aren't right on, for example. I would adjust for best performance, then take a reading for future reference, not worrying about what the number is.

I think it's fairly easy to tell if a vehicle has been touched/restored or not. On the other hand, not sure it matters, depending on what it will be used for. A museum would likely care.

I'd think that the cost to ship a restored one should be identical to shipping one that never needed restoration. Or am I missing something?

You should hear air rushing in when loosening the fuel cap (after running the engine for a while) if it is plugged.

What would be wrong with a low mileage one that never needed to be restored?