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Electrical Issues

B

boquinc

New member
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Location
Greenville, NC
Good afternoon,

I have been following a few threads in the rebuild of the PCB. I have done this and the only way to continue to start the truck is to jump it. Previously to me the N-Safety switch was rewired and everything in the TM says to replace the PCB leading to the rebuild. With power on only I can get nothing, with run/start switch I get nothing. The only time I get anything is with the jumper in and power on all the warnings come to life and then I can jump the starter and the truck runs. What am I missing?
 
E

ericp351

Active member
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Location
erie Pa
Hello . If I follow- you have a jumper at N. Start Switch, and jump 24 volts to starter to crank. If so- sounds like 2 troubles. 1- screwed up N S W as you probably knew, and 2.- you need to trace hot and ground from the batts to, then thru your bat switch- then in and out of your start switch until trouble found. Jumping from main bat ground to engine block would quickly find any "earth" fault. Please advise if mis under stood. Do you have headlights?
 
B

boquinc

New member
8
1
3
Location
Greenville, NC
ericp351 said:
Hello . If I follow- you have a jumper at N. Start Switch, and jump 24 volts to starter to crank. If so- sounds like 2 troubles. 1- screwed up N S W as you probably knew, and 2.- you need to trace hot and ground from the batts to, then thru your bat switch- then in and out of your start switch until trouble found. Jumping from main bat ground to engine block would quickly find any "earth" fault. Please advise if mis under stood. Do you have headlights?
Click to expand...
No jumper at N start witch just the jumper on the PCB harness wire between C & D....I do have headlights.
 
Last edited:
E

ericp351

Active member
138
63
28
Location
erie Pa
boquinc said:
No jumper at N start witch just the jumper on the PCB harness wire between C & D....I do have headlights.
Click to expand...
Sounds like your batteries, cables, and grounds are all ok. Starter also. I'd look to the start switch, at least until an electrician can chime-in. I'd work it vigorously and give it a rap with a hammer handle before you open or remove it. Little down side. Good Luck.
 
Jbulach

Jbulach

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Sunman Indiana
boquinc said:
Good afternoon,

I have been following a few threads in the rebuild of the PCB. I have done this and the only way to continue to start the truck is to jump it. Previously to me the N-Safety switch was rewired and everything in the TM says to replace the PCB leading to the rebuild. With power on only I can get nothing, with run/start switch I get nothing. The only time I get anything is with the jumper in and power on all the warnings come to life and then I can jump the starter and the truck runs. What am I missing?
Click to expand...
What truck are we working on, and does it have an engine over temp light in the dash behind the steering wheel?
 
Jbulach

Jbulach

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So guessing a M929 or M929A1… disregard the question about the over temp light, I miss-remembered it being tied into the PCB.

Not sure if I’m quite following your post, but you have to jumper the C&D terminals in the cannon plug for the PCB, then jumper the starter solenoid and the truck will crank and start? Do you have 24v power at terminal A in the cannon plug when your battery switch on the dash is on?
 
B

boquinc

New member
8
1
3
Location
Greenville, NC
Jbulach said:
So guessing a M929 or M929A1… disregard the question about the over temp light, I miss-remembered it being tied into the PCB.

Not sure if I’m quite following your post, but you have to jumper the C&D terminals in the cannon plug for the PCB, then jumper the starter solenoid and the truck will crank and start? Do you have 24v power at terminal A in the cannon plug when your battery switch on the dash is on?
Click to expand...
Yes.
 
B

boquinc

New member
8
1
3
Location
Greenville, NC
Rebuilt the PCB after following the test procedure and still having trouble getting the truck to start with switches.
-Switch on I get 12V on the bottom right small lug
-Have constant 24V on the big bottom right lug.
-Neutral Safety switch test good.
-TM test procedure Starter Motor inoperative; No Solenoid Thump pg2-109 leads to replace PCB again.
I'm located in ENC so if anyone has any ideas I'm all ears.
IMG_3533.jpg
 
Jbulach

Jbulach

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Sunman Indiana
So your problem should be the bottom solenoid or associated wiring in the PCB, or the PCB itself is not getting ground.IMG_7313.jpg
I’m not seeing the wire on the terminal In circled in yellow, it should be going to ground.
 
Jbulach

Jbulach

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,591
2,050
113
Location
Sunman Indiana
boquinc said:
Rebuilt the PCB after following the test procedure and still having trouble getting the truck to start with switches.
-Switch on I get 12V on the bottom right small lug
-Have constant 24V on the big bottom right lug.
-Neutral Safety switch test good.
-TM test procedure Starter Motor inoperative; No Solenoid Thump pg2-109 leads to replace PCB again.
I'm located in ENC so if anyone has any ideas I'm all ears.
View attachment 916697
Click to expand...
Sorry, forgot to hit reply so you have a better chance of getting a notification.
 
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