Txsrooster
Member
- 46
- 75
- 18
- Location
- Santa Fe, Texas
Thanks. I'll keep my eyes open for some.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
New2Me 1961 M37
- Thread starter Txsrooster
- Start date
Rdinatal
New member
- 20
- 18
- 3
- Location
- Lake Normanopolis, NC
Oil filter
- 10,163
- 5,839
- 113
- Location
- Camp Wood/LC, TX
Fram C21
Txsrooster
Member
- 46
- 75
- 18
- Location
- Santa Fe, Texas
I charged the batteries (surprisingly they held a charge) and just tried turning the engine over to make sure it wasn't seized and it did turn. It didn't start, and if it did I would have turned it off quickly, but was happy to see that it turned over smoothly with no abnormal noises.
Txsrooster
Member
- 46
- 75
- 18
- Location
- Santa Fe, Texas
The previous owner installed an electric fuel pump, and it kicks on when you turn the switch. You can hear it clicking away, I did notice a bit of fuel dripping on the ground under the engine, so I need to check on that before going to far into trying to get the truck started.
Rdinatal
New member
- 20
- 18
- 3
- Location
- Lake Normanopolis, NC
It might be over pressuring the float valve. Research the pump pressure and if it's above 3-5psi then install a pressure regulator.
Also, it's best to rewire so the pump is energized when the oil pressure is present. I have a switch to manual prime to help when changing filters or needing to fill the carburetor bowl after a long sit.
My test was that the pump ran for "x" time after the engine stopped. You really don't want raw gas to be pumped out of the tank after the engine is stopped.
Last edited:
Txsrooster
Member
- 46
- 75
- 18
- Location
- Santa Fe, Texas
Should be easy to check, since they didn't actually mount the pump to anything and it's just hanging under the truck.
Rdinatal
New member
- 20
- 18
- 3
- Location
- Lake Normanopolis, NC
Should be but
Ah, that's kind of a temp mount. You might also check the ground connection. Not seeing what going on that could also be a contributing factor.
Txsrooster
Member
- 46
- 75
- 18
- Location
- Santa Fe, Texas
Well it didn't really have any markings other than 24v so not sure. Also when I turned it on today it seems like it was coming from the carburetor. Could not really see where it was coming from so I stuck my phone in there and took a ton of pictures and it looks like it is leaking from this connection... not the easiest to get to.
Attachments
- 96
- 196
- 33
- Location
- Charlottesville, VA
Good morning,
What you have circled above is the fitting which connects the crankcase ventilation line to the cylinder block. It's part of the vent lines for the water fording system. The seepage in the photo is engine oil. Nothing to worry about.
An indispensable resource for proper nomenclature and identification of parts is the ORD 9 SNL G-741 (I got mine from Portrayal Press). In your example above, the part in the exploded engine block view is labeled AE in Figure 01-9, Part No. 7410942.
What you have circled above is the fitting which connects the crankcase ventilation line to the cylinder block. It's part of the vent lines for the water fording system. The seepage in the photo is engine oil. Nothing to worry about.
An indispensable resource for proper nomenclature and identification of parts is the ORD 9 SNL G-741 (I got mine from Portrayal Press). In your example above, the part in the exploded engine block view is labeled AE in Figure 01-9, Part No. 7410942.
Txsrooster
Member
- 46
- 75
- 18
- Location
- Santa Fe, Texas
That is where the fuel is coming from. No oil loss there. So could the fuel pump be filling up the carburetor and overflowing down the crankcase ventilation line?
- 96
- 196
- 33
- Location
- Charlottesville, VA
The upper end of the crankcase ventilation line attaches to the center of the intake. If the intake manifold is filling up with fuel caused by, say, a stuck float in the carburetor, then yes.
If actually installed on your truck, the line attached to the intake manifold runs through the crankcase ventilator metering valve and a shutoff valve, You can shut off that valve to prevent fuel from running into the crankcase. But the fuel will have to go somewhere which may create other problems.
You should, then, suspect that fuel has been running through the line into the crankcase, thereby diluting the oil.
Sounds like you'll have to pull the carburetor to see what's going on.
Hope that helps.
If actually installed on your truck, the line attached to the intake manifold runs through the crankcase ventilator metering valve and a shutoff valve, You can shut off that valve to prevent fuel from running into the crankcase. But the fuel will have to go somewhere which may create other problems.
You should, then, suspect that fuel has been running through the line into the crankcase, thereby diluting the oil.
Sounds like you'll have to pull the carburetor to see what's going on.
Hope that helps.
Txsrooster
Member
- 46
- 75
- 18
- Location
- Santa Fe, Texas
I used to own a old international scout while stationed onboard a bouy tender in the Coast Guard. I would pull my carb every couple of months and rebuild it while underway. Pretty sure this is more complicated than that one but not much more. Thanks, I'll look and see if there is a rebuild kit available.
Txsrooster
Member
- 46
- 75
- 18
- Location
- Santa Fe, Texas
I went ahead and installed the new coil, and cranked it over and it started right up. I didn't let it run more than a few seconds due to fuel in the oil. Guess an oil change is in the very near future. Then to tackle the brakes...the master cylinder is disconnected from all the wheels... after that reinstall the rear axle and drive it around a bit. Maybe to the car wash....it's filthy
Txsrooster
Member
- 46
- 75
- 18
- Location
- Santa Fe, Texas
It seems trivial but this morning I head to the shop with grand ideas of working on the brakes and an oil change and a few other things..but after figuring out the master cylinder is toast and I don't have the proper tool to pull the oil drain plug, I decided to tackle.....the windshield arm clamps. The passenger side were both frozen. I freed them up and cleaned the battery terminals. I ordered the correct tools for the drain plug, a new master cylinder and then reinstalled the rear drive shaft. Getting close to running it to the car wash....
John Mc
Well-known member
- 203
- 290
- 63
- Location
- Monkton, VT
On some of these, the tool to pull the oil drain plug is just a 1/2" drive ratchet with no socket on it.
- 1,991
- 2,735
- 113
- Location
- Florence, SC
Subscribed for updates!
Txsrooster
Member
- 46
- 75
- 18
- Location
- Santa Fe, Texas
I've read some reports of people stripping out the drain plug using just the ratchet. I ordered a proper pipe plug tool. Should arrive tomorrow.
John Mc
Well-known member
- 203
- 290
- 63
- Location
- Monkton, VT
I can't imagine doing that, as long as you have the ratchet fully seating in the plug. The spring-loaded retention ball on some ratchets can complicate that ... which is why I use a short extension on my ratchet.
The only way I'm stripping out the plug is by over-torquing it and stripping threads when re-installing, but that's more of an operator malfunction than a tool problem: there is no need to really crank on it.
The only way I'm stripping out the plug is by over-torquing it and stripping threads when re-installing, but that's more of an operator malfunction than a tool problem: there is no need to really crank on it.
Txsrooster
Member
- 46
- 75
- 18
- Location
- Santa Fe, Texas
So while laying on the floor under the truck and looking at the PTO installed and it appears to power a pump that was installed (I am guessing) by the forest department. There are two square areas of the bed that have been cut out and later welded with flat steel that I assume would connect to a water tank in the bed and a discharge. Not sure what to do with it other than clean it up. There is also parasitic draw on the battery. If the switch is off it still has current draw from the battery...so that should be a fun game to find.
