New to Mep-803A ownership general questions

OK, it became a strategic postponement tonight because i put the battery tenders on both battieries after the first inital tries to renew them for tomarrows attempts. After spending so much time going this far; that iniatall start up is DANG gut wrenching haha

Well, several more tries on fresh battery charge this morning and still no start. I started to see some white smoke out of a few exhaust ports but after like 4 long cranks i can significantly hear the decrease in battery strength so i need to recharge and try again later. should i turn the frequency adjust knob clockwise all the way to incrase governor? What else can I do

Being that you broke out the BFH on those poor little metering pumps, you might just need to work backwards. Disconnect the hard lines above the pumps, and push aside... and try to start. Are they all pumping fuel? If so, reconnect the hard lines, and disconnect at the injectors and crank. Is fuel being pumped up the rigid lines? If so, Id pull the injectors and reattach to the hard lines out of the block and crank... are they spraying?

Have you confirmed fuel is flowing out of the fuel pump (dont only trust if its making noise). Its just a goose chase... sometimes easier just to start at the primary pump and move forward. Only so many things it could be.

FYI, definitely make sure the throttle cable is not all the way in.
You probably want it pulling the throttle lever on the side of the engine so there is about 1/4" - 3/8" space between the tip of the curved lever and the high limit screw.
Definitely do as LITD mentioned to confirm fuel flow and pressure to the metering pumps.
Those pumps need like 5 PSI min, they usually won't work with flow but no pressure.
Lastly, I'll admit I have used "combustion assistance in a can" many times to start things when they want to be stubborn.
Just don't use ether. There are several less volatile sprays on the market, some designed specifically for diesels.
You can also use carb cleaner, brake cleaner, WD-40 or propane. Use it sparingly just to see what is causing your issue.

When I had a hard starter, I pushed in the button on the Freq adjust knob, and pulled out the cable till it stopped. Then cranked it over, if it starts to run up, push the know in a bit. Pay attention to the freq meter, and I would have another Multi meter set to read freq; plugged into the 120 volt outlet, in case your meter on the gen set is broke. But like everyone and his dog has mentioned, first see if you are getting the proper amount of fuel to the jugs.

Ended up working backwards here. Definely not getting fuel like i should. Went back and readjusted the fuel rack, depending on the angle you set the injector return line spouts bolted down; changes the total range the metering arm can rotate. the engine repair manual says to have them rotated totally counterclockwise before tightening down. but that doesn't seem to be right for me. I'm much more confident with the rack alignment now. so today, once the batteries are charged im gonna give it another go. The aux pump seems to have good pressure i can continually hear fuel drain back to the tank after priming. i have the tank lid off so it easy to hear. Thanks so much for all the tips guys!

Yes you want to rotate the rack pin on each pump all the way to the left and then rotate the fuel inlet barb as far right as you can go with the hose in place. The pin of course is what does the removal of fuel, and the positon of the fuel inlet barb allows the range of fuelling to be controlled. Make sure all (4) are set as equal as you can.

I'm not quite sure what you mean by the Aux pump has good pressure? The aux pump ( mounted under the rear cover just above the tank ) only sends from from an external tank ( wen hooked up ) to the generator's tank. Only the pump next to the radiator sends fuel to the metering pumps.

So thats what i meant by aux pump, (the main lift pump seems to work well), im gona pull the injectors out and secure them, but let them hang and see what kind pressure and pulses look like a bit later today when i get home.

I think we understand now. Do know though the more technically correct you can be with terminology, the more common the understanding will be between those helping, and those in the future searching through threads seeing if anyone else has had the same issue as them.

SO its a fuel issue im dealing with, the picture labeled "no fuel 1" shows how i rigged up the two outside injector lines to the middle, and had the inectors floating in space during cranking. i kept two hard lines off the two ouside injector pumps . i kept the return lines in place to correctly prime and thus I barley had dribbles come out of the Injector pumps without lines on them, and not nearly enough to see any thing come out the 2 injectors that were rigged up. included are some pics of the Injector pump arm angles, do they seem proper? Thanks for all the advise, i am no mechanic but i am absolutely determined! Probably gone play with things in this configuration until i can get fuel.

The pump arms that the larger fuel lines go into, should be as close to the push rod tubes as possible. It looks like they are closer to the cast iron hold downs than the tubes?

Whats up with the fuel stop solenid? It looks broken and disassembled. Are you manually rotating the fuel rack for these tests?

Light in the Dark said:

The pump arms that the larger fuel lines go into, should be as close to the push rod tubes as possible. It looks like they are closer to the cast iron hold downs than the tubes?

Whats up with the fuel stop solenid? It looks broken and disassembled. Are you manually rotating the fuel rack for these tests?

Click to expand...

i figued i'd get the stop solenoid out of the way and keep the rack in the run position to help build up pressure faster everytime i crank,..
Indeed my return lines arms are more toward the hold downs than the other direction because it seems to give it the best range of motion in the rack but im probably mistaken, do you think i can just lossen the hold down nut and rotate a bit on all four to try to adjust?

You should be able to loosen the hold downs and rotate each barb and then tighten back down. You might need to undo the hard line attached to the top though, as it can provide downward pressure and inhibit this rotation. This range directly effects how much fuel you are allowing the pump to displace. The closer to the hold down, the less distance the pin in the fuel rack can move the pump... so the less fuel it will pump. When you set the fuel rack pin all the way to the left, and the barb all the way to the right upon installation... you are ensuring the maximum movement range by the fuel rack, thus maximum fuel pumping capability.

I can't thank you enough, my friend . I think that is exactly the problem, i had that adjustment backwards. It shouldnt be too much time to adjust just like we said , and ill report back!!

THAT is the problem i have 2 injector pumps online, by just losening the lockdown nut and turning however this is risky because i dont know which injector pump tappet is high or low, and i still seem to cant get fuel from 2 pumps, will keep trying, one of the jector pulses look GREAT now !!!!

Open the attachment. Take them apart and soak them in carb cleaner for a day or two.

With the condition you described with the original pump state, even if you freed the rack pin, you may still have a non functioning pump. They should be disassembled and soaked to get to the inside pumping mechanism.

I have one non-functioning pump. its all disassembled and soaking now. its got all 4 new injectors (4 for 100$ total from amazon and the spray pattern looks fantastic!) just need to got the one pump to do it thing, i dont knowingingly want to try to start it with a misfire..

No idea what this thing is called inside the injector pump but does it go back in under any particular rotation?, like those holes dont have to point a certain direction right? it just has to go in skinny end down into the pump, right?