It's alive!!!

Mogman said:

Since you see the TPS voltage at the TCM box, if you are still throwing a 22 code then the problem is 99% likely in the box.
It is possible that disturbing all those connections may have cleared the TPS problem, why I say to re-confirm the code 22.

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We just returned from a 20 mile round trip, driving between 25 and 60 mph, 94 degrees outside temp. The codes have cleared from before and have not returned. Shifting is just like it is supposed to be, we even were able to down-kick, that was not happening before. Very happy for now, hopefully it will stay like this. But with your help I am now educated, just very little, but more than before. Thanks Mogman.

Mogman said:

IT is OK to connect and disconnect the TCM with the batteries connected but never with the truck in run position.
You can carefully use a pair of channel locks on the connector just to get it started, be gentle though.

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Holy typo Batman!

Mainsail said:

Holy typo Batman!

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Holy auto correct!! was installing a pan on a 4l80 and was not paying attention
I am sorry if I offended anyone

Thunderbirds said:

We just returned from a 20 mile round trip, driving between 25 and 60 mph, 94 degrees outside temp. The codes have cleared from before and have not returned. Shifting is just like it is supposed to be, we even were able to down-kick, that was not happening before. Very happy for now, hopefully it will stay like this. But with your help I am now educated, just very little, but more than before. Thanks Mogman.

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Yep, sometimes just working the connectors helps, glad you have a working transmission now!!!!

Quick question on tire pressure...

I know that is a horse beaten to death, over and over again. Then resuscitated, just to be beaten again.

BUT, each truck is unique. So, I recently got 4 used, 90% Bajas from Feltz, load range E, on 24 paired bolt rims. I inflated them to 40 PSI, and they were rough riding. I now adjusted them to 35 PSI each corner ( 5 PSI below the TM for the M1123) but the ride quality is sooo much improved, I am now keeping the fillings in my teeth for a change. Question is, how much am I underinflated for a load range E, if at all? Any drawbacks? I don't really see any deformation of the sidewall under normal conditions. Obviously if I were to load 4,000 lbs, I would max out the pressures, but for everyday driving I think I would be ok. I would love to hear opinions/comments.

Thanks.

Thunderbirds said:

Quick question on tire pressure...

I know that is a horse beaten to death, over and over again. Then resuscitated, just to be beaten again.

BUT, each truck is unique. So, I recently got 4 used, 90% Bajas from Feltz, load range E, on 24 paired bolt rims. I inflated them to 40 PSI, and they were rough riding. I now adjusted them to 35 PSI each corner ( 5 PSI below the TM for the M1123) but the ride quality is sooo much improved, I am now keeping the fillings in my teeth for a change. Question is, how much am I underinflated for a load range E, if at all? Any drawbacks? I don't really see any deformation of the sidewall under normal conditions. Obviously if I were to load 4,000 lbs, I would max out the pressures, but for everyday driving I think I would be ok. I would love to hear opinions/comments.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

.
Good move... I can't see any problem with you being 5# under inflated.
Especially with the ride quality improvement.

Always check with the manufacturer before doing these things.

Look up Ford Explorer rollover fiasco. Probably 30 years ago but under inflated tires damage sidewalls and cause rollovers.

Thunderbirds said:

Quick question on tire pressure...

I know that is a horse beaten to death, over and over again. Then resuscitated, just to be beaten again.

BUT, each truck is unique. So, I recently got 4 used, 90% Bajas from Feltz, load range E, on 24 paired bolt rims. I inflated them to 40 PSI, and they were rough riding. I now adjusted them to 35 PSI each corner ( 5 PSI below the TM for the M1123) but the ride quality is sooo much improved, I am now keeping the fillings in my teeth for a change. Question is, how much am I underinflated for a load range E, if at all? Any drawbacks? I don't really see any deformation of the sidewall under normal conditions. Obviously if I were to load 4,000 lbs, I would max out the pressures, but for everyday driving I think I would be ok. I would love to hear opinions/comments.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

My opinion is that 5# isn't going to matter too much. The sidewalls might get a bit warmer but then there's more sidewall in a LR E anyway. Your milage will suffer...

If you expect to go above 70MPH, maybe top them up beforehand.

The springs and shocks combined with the lack of armor makes mine ride rough.

I have to edit:

The front are recommended 35PSI, the REAR is what I lowered from 40 PSI.

Thunderbirds said:

I have to edit:

The front are recommended 35PSI, the REAR is what I lowered from 40 PSI.

View attachment 930473

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Unloaded, all models.......15 and 18.......... ain't that something...................

Thunderbirds said:

I have to edit:

The front are recommended 35PSI, the REAR is what I lowered from 40 PSI.

View attachment 930473

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That 40PSI is for max GVWR which I doubt you are running at, in fact you are probably carrying more weight on the front axle anyway

Mogman said:

That 40PSI is for max GVWR which I doubt you are running at, in fact you are probably carrying more weight on the front axle anyway

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Oh wow, that completely escaped me. Thanks for pointing that out. The max GVWR is 10,300. I am nowhere near that...

That means I (and everyone else for that matter) can adjust the pressures for ride quality, until one loads up with cargo.

I think I will adjust to 25 front and 30 rear to start with and keep an eye on fuel and tire wear. 15 and 18 seems a bit too low for me.

Thanks for pointing that out.

Hey everyone,


I need a bit of help in all things overdrive.

Fluids are new and at the correct level, filter changed within the last 200 miles.

Symptoms: Occasionally, but not often, I get trans code 22, Throttle Position circuit high edit LOW. When hot, shifting 2nd, 3rd and then 4th is usually fine. Then when it's time to get into OD or TCC lock, it jumps back and forth, then most the time stays out of OD, but in 4th. Rarely, but it does happen, it is stuck in OD, and will not let me kick down to get into lower gear, have to slow the truck for it to shift into 3rd again. Initially I was confused as it acts like a mix between slipping for a second and jerking/shuddering. Then a few nights ago I then had the epiphany to put the transmission in D (not OD) and it did not have any of the symptoms, so I really think it is jumping into and out of OD.

I have adjusted the brake switch to what I think works (when standing it does, not sure if it shorts out while driving). This Saturday I have an appointment with a retired Motorpool Sgt at a nearby Air Force base who now manages the Auto Hobby Shop on base. I am hoping we can figure things out.

The help I need is to see if my logic is correct. I would love to wire a light bulb at the brake switch to see if power gets interrupted or stays on when driving and maybe shorting out. Then I need to trouble shoot the throttle position sensor to see if it is within limits and get my hands on a 16.5mm block to measure resistances.

What other steps or checks can/do I need to do?

I know a lot of you are Transmission gurus, so I hope to get ideas. Thanks in advance.

So, I spent 5 hours in the Auto Hobby Shop at Ellsworth AFB yesterday. Huge shout out to John, shop manager and his buddy Joe, both retired Motorpool Sgts.




We did get the OD situation somewhat figured out. It must have been a combination of some hydraulic fluid in the electrical connector at the transmission, and the TPS out of adjustment. We cleaned the connector below with electrical cleaner spray, let it dry for an hour and reconnected.



The TPS is a different story. Voltage was good at 5.12 Volt between leads A and C. Supposed to be between 4.90 and 5.20. That checked good. Doing the public math (5.12V x 0.33 = 1.6896V) with the gauge block installed.

Then we tried to adjust the angle to get a good reading, BUT, here is the kicker: at WOT, we had the least voltage between B and C at 1.6V, and when we let go to idle, we had 4.6Volt. That is directly opposite to what the TM says and supposed to be. The truck drives great, and even shifts smoothly into all 4 and OD. So weird. My suspicion is that there is some wiring repinning that went on somewhere. The leads are all in the correct order at the TPS, I think. Can anyone confirm the sequence of wires (from back to front) to be 359H, 355B and 350C at the front?



If that checks out, why is my voltage inverse to the TM and why is everything seem to be working?

Does anyone know what is going on and what needs to be done next?

@Hummer Guy and @badger_610889 Are your fixes any similar to these?

Thunderbirds said:

So, I spent 5 hours in the Auto Hobby Shop at Ellsworth AFB yesterday. Huge shout out to John, shop manager and his buddy Joe, both retired Motorpool Sgts.

View attachment 931189
View attachment 931191

We did get the OD situation somewhat figured out. It must have been a combination of some hydraulic fluid in the electrical connector at the transmission, and the TPS out of adjustment. We cleaned the connector below with electrical cleaner spray, let it dry for an hour and reconnected.

View attachment 931190

The TPS is a different story. Voltage was good at 5.12 Volt between leads A and C. Supposed to be between 4.90 and 5.20. That checked good. Doing the public math (5.12V x 0.33 = 1.6896V) with the gauge block installed.

Then we tried to adjust the angle to get a good reading, BUT, here is the kicker: at WOT, we had the least voltage between B and C at 1.6V, and when we let go to idle, we had 4.6Volt. That is directly opposite to what the TM says and supposed to be. The truck drives great, and even shifts smoothly into all 4 and OD. So weird. My suspicion is that there is some wiring repinning that went on somewhere. The leads are all in the correct order at the TPS, I think. Can anyone confirm the sequence of wires (from back to front) to be 359H, 355B and 350C at the front?

View attachment 931192

If that checks out, why is my voltage inverse to the TM and why is everything seem to be working?

Does anyone know what is going on and what needs to be done next?

@Hummer Guy and @badger_610889 Are your fixes any similar to these?

Click to expand...

These 3 pins run end to end to the TCM plug, verify these 3 wires are where they should be via a DVOM.
I had a truck“ECV” that had the TPS plug at the fuel filter that only after careful observation I had noticed the wires were professionally spliced back to the round plug, this was the only truck ever i witnessed this, so I checked them end to end…2 of the wires were spliced backward, as soon as I correct the wiring, everything worked as it should, this miswired plug meant that thus truck never worked correcty.
The m1123 is a little different as the TPS plug is at the rear of the engin where the engine harness plugs into the body harness.
The ECV has it on the engine harness next to the fuel filter.

Retiredwarhorses said:

These 3 pins run end to end to the TCM plug, verify these 3 wires are where they should be via a DVOM.
I had a truck“ECV” that had the TPS plug at the fuel filter that only after careful observation I had noticed the wires were professionally spliced back to the round plug, this was the only truck ever i witnessed this, so I checked them end to end…2 of the wires were spliced backward, as soon as I correct the wiring, everything worked as it should, this miswired plug meant that thus truck never worked correcty.
The m1123 is a little different as the TPS plug is at the rear of the engin where the engine harness plugs into the body harness.
The ECV has it on the engine harness next to the fuel filter.

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Great advice, thank you. I will be chasing the wires and report back what I find... The truck drives nicely now I wonder how or why...

Yes, the TPS is in the center next to the coolant manifold.

Thunderbirds said:

Great advice, thank you. I will be chasing the wires and report back what I find... The truck drives nicely now I wonder how or why...

Yes, the TPS is in the center next to the coolant manifold.

View attachment 931193

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Right, but that’s only where it plugs into the actual TPS, the other plug is at the back of the motor where it connects the engine harness to the body harness and ultimately lands at the TCM plug.

You posted this part number for the serpentine belt. (PK82490) Did it seem to work for you and does your truck have the blank pulley were the AC would be installed?

Does anyone else have any recommendations on a serpentine belt?

Thanks

deshet said:

You posted this part number for the serpentine belt. (PK82490) Did it seem to work for you and does your truck have the blank pulley were the AC would be installed?

Does anyone else have any recommendations on a serpentine belt?

Thanks

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This belt worked great for me. It is 98" long, and works with the 6.5, non- turbo. Some places sell this Bando belt as NSN compatible. Not sure about the A/C pulley, haven't treally seen the setup in person.

deshet said:

You posted this part number for the serpentine belt. (PK82490) Did it seem to work for you and does your truck have the blank pulley were the AC would be installed?

Does anyone else have any recommendations on a serpentine belt?

Thanks

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BUT, I just thought of something. The correct belt is Truck Serial number dependent... Under and over serial number 196900.