Replacing M35A2 Wheel Bearing Races

Have searched for How-To information pertaining to removing and reinstalling Deuce wheel bearing races, but I'm not having any luck. The -20-3-2 isn't much help either.

This is my first effort in this area and I don't want to screw it up. If you know of any posts or videos showing the steps and tools required, please let me know.

Thanks.

Mark

Welcome to SteelSoldiers!

If you mean the bearing cups (#3920), each hub has two of them, press-fitted into their respective seats.
For removal of (old) races, seats have notches, to either apply a puller or tap them out with a brass drift. Be careful to not damage the seat's surface!

Before installation of (new) bearing cups, clean; inspect and apply some lube to the bore.
Installation should be done with a shop press, or using a suitable installer tool. In a pinch, you can also take the old cup, cut a slit through it and use that one- plus a brass hammer, to pound-in the replacement cup. Never hit a new- or reusable bearing directly with a punch/ hammer!

Whatever method, take special care that the cup is kept well aligned with the bore and goes in perfectly straight!

ODRotorhead said:

This is my first effort in this area and I don't want to screw it up

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With some patience and common sense there isn't really that much that can go wrong!
Hub & drum assemblies are heavy, so keep your feet and fingers clear!

I’ve always beat them in and out with a 18” long drift punch.

I use a brass rod (1/2" or 5/8") to drive it out. It takes a little driving to get it out.

Thanks very much for that helpful information. I'd been warned in advance about the weight of the drums. My back is already wrecked so I came up with a plan to avoid another trip to the hospital:



I worked up a bracket to bolt onto my transmission lift. Once I get the drum bolted on the bracket and the table aligned with the spindle, I just pull the whole thing back and the drum slides right off without any effort. I have two M35A2s, so working with twelve drums makes the bracket fabrication a worthwhile effort.

None of my brass punches are big enough, long enough for the current job, so I'm shopping for a suitable drift. I found a 3/4" round brass drift that's 12" long that should do the job.



The same company also offers a steel punch that's specifically designed for bearing races. It has a 5/8" oval tip and it's 20" long:



Given the size of the 3920 races, I'm leaning toward the specialized steel race punch. I know I'll have to be more careful with a steel punch. Any thoughts on which might be the better choice?

I have a small 12 ton shop press that I can use to seat the new races and, fortunately, a son who can manhandle the drums for me.

Lastly, I'm hoping someone can recommend a source for quality bearing, seal, and brake components at reasonable prices. Quality is more important than price, but within reason.

Thanks again for the feedback. I'm grateful for any advice that can be offered.

ODRotorhead said:

Given the size of the 3920 races, I'm leaning toward the specialized steel race punch.

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That steel punch will work better & faster; a brass drift not so much, but it is safer for your hub, at least....

I know I'll have to be more careful with a steel punch.

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As always: practice makes perfect!

Done many over the years with a punch & hammer.

I use an old race as a drift.

It's not rocket science.