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5 ton crew build

CrappiePoint

Member
18
45
13
Location
Arkansas
Well guys I finally got all the rot pulled off, cross joists painted and ready to put the new floor in. I had to cut the door supports flush with the cab inner tube because of the rust. I added in a piece of angle 2” 14 ga angle for the floor to sit on and when I get the floor in I will add another on top to sandwich it in and strengthen the lateral load. When I tie the top together this will help as well. There aren’t enough curse words to express the effort involved in removing spot welds!!! Finally laying some floor tomorrow!!
 

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th3v3rn

New member
15
8
3
Location
Utah
Well guys I finally got all the rot pulled off, cross joists painted and ready to put the new floor in. I had to cut the door supports flush with the cab inner tube because of the rust. I added in a piece of angle 2” 14 ga angle for the floor to sit on and when I get the floor in I will add another on top to sandwich it in and strengthen the later load. When I tie the top together this will help as well. There aren’t enough curse words to express the effort involved in removing spot welds!!! Finally laying some floor tomorrow!!
Are you planning on welding from the underside or plug welding through the the top of the floor?
 

CrappiePoint

Member
18
45
13
Location
Arkansas
Tough sledding the last couple of days, but I did get the first piece of floor welded in. Since my harbor freight hole punch won’t punch 14ga I had to get creative with the drill press. I have the first door jamb sitting up there to see where I will land the opening. I added almost a foot and a half to the length of the rear section to “ make way” for something cool. More to come
 

Attachments

th3v3rn

New member
15
8
3
Location
Utah
Tough sledding the last couple of days, but I did get the first piece of floor welded in. Since my harbor freight hole punch won’t punch 14ga I had to get creative with the drill press. I have the first door jamb sitting up there to see where I will land the opening. I added almost a foot and a half to the length of the rear section to “ make way” for something cool. More to come
Is that a steelit type paint that is weldable? Was thinking it was just Rust-Oleum.

Finally got the rear cab off. That was frustrating. Having steel delivered tomorrow. Cross member should be here Friday.
 

CrappiePoint

Member
18
45
13
Location
Arkansas
Good eye. The sides are regular primer and the middle will be paint thru. The local automotive stores did not have any so the spots were drilled thru the 14ga into the crossmembers. I went to the paint store and got weld thru. Yes that back wall is hard to get off without tearing it up.
 
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