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Two Batteries Instead of Four - Issues?

Kevin Means

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Our M1083 has the typical four-battery setup, with 12 and 24 volt circuits. I've noticed that many people have switched to two batteries instead of four. I'd like to switch to two larger batteries, and then move them a short distance to help with outside storage. Any issues/problems when you do that in these rigs?

Kevin
 

Mullaney

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Our M1083 has the typical four-battery setup, with 12 and 24 volt circuits. I've noticed that many people have switched to two batteries instead of four. I'd like to switch to two larger batteries, and then move them a short distance to help with outside storage. Any issues/problems when you do that in these rigs?

Kevin
.
No problem at all - unless you are in the far north. And even then, with a block heater you should be fine. As a matter of fact you will make your alternator a lot happier as well...
 
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Ronmar

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None at all. Cat specced a pair of group 31 batts for these engines, and that is really all they need. A pair of group 27’s would also work well IMO.

4 batts is too much for the alt as when 12v is fully loaded it puts out around 1/3 less energy than a straight 24v@100A alt does.

a pair of conventional wet 6t batts is still an acceptable match for the 100a dual volt.

I would not recommend a pair of 6t in AGM or anything larger than a pair of 6t wet cell batts for the dual volt alt.

AGM batts when thirsty/worst case dead battery recharge conditions, are looking for nearly twice the charge current out of the alt than a conventional wet cell lead acid does. 45% of the AH rating in amps vis 25% of the AH rating for wet cell batts. Plus the truck loads of course…
 

Ronmar

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The truck was saddled with this monster 4 battery bank to meet some cold crank mil-spec at a very low temp. Unfortunately the bright lights at S&S didn't size the alt properly to support it, so these trucks have been plagued with charge and battery issues as they typically do not run enough hours to keep the battery charged fully. And when they do run, the alt is coping with an overload trying to top off the low batts and probably never succeeds before it is shut down. The biggest killer of batteries is low state of charge and the resulting sulfation...

They also have a 12v vampire on the A0 trucks that tends to pull that half of the battery bank down, which doesn't help... The A1's got manual and automatic battery disconnects(LBCD) to help bandaid the issue but they didn't truly deal with it until the 260A alt on the A1R, but that was an absolute necessity with the fielding of AGM batts...

Throwing amp hours(and ether) at cold is probably the simplest way to try and cope, but the proper way to deal with cold starting is to apply heat...
 

MarkM

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Boy you need to be careful with the ether. I've seen some real carnage when too much is used. As far as heat I always liked the waffle iron magnetic heaters. Super simple and you can't beat the ease of install. I used them all the time in the material handling equipment world.

Mark
 

Ronmar

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Boy you need to be careful with the ether. I've seen some real carnage when too much is used. As far as heat I always liked the waffle iron magnetic heaters. Super simple and you can't beat the ease of install. I used them all the time in the material handling equipment world.

Mark
Ether itself is not the problem, as it is simply a combustible fuel with a lower ignition temperature than the diesel that is also being injected during a normal cold startup. It is its misuse that causes the problems...

Diesels don't have throttle plates and use governors to control fuel. When you fill the entire air filter and intake pathway with a combustible air-fuel mix, when it does finally fire, the engine tends to runaway as you have no control over the engine using that fuel-air mix. So you take a cold engine from crank RPM to redline and beyond, and depending on the length of the intake, hold it there for a bit.

Since the governor is commanding idle fuel, as soon as the RPM goes over idle, it then cuts the diesel being injected so no top end lube either... Its that cold high rev that does the damage, causes the wear that brings on difficult starting, and "ether addiction", and under extreme cases, bends/twists cranks and throws rods, thus giving ether its bad rep. It is not the ether itself...

Direct injection into the manifold like the LMTV uses, is the proper way, it is metered and can be completely controlled, so no runaway, no governor fuel cut and no damage, just the chemical "spark plug" cold starting aid it is intended to be...
 

coachgeo

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If you will be in AZ most of time.. go to two battery as suggested. Weather their you wont need four. If you upgrade significantly your alternator as suggested.. AND end up with her in cold country (with no ether start esp.) then go to four battery.
 
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