Reefer, conex, box.... So many options

So... You know I like to overanalyze things. I need input.

I originally got an M934 but realized the length was a limitation and the way the body expanded was virtually useless for planning purposes. I sold it.

I figured I'd get a deuce (And I did) then realized that due to parts availability, probably wasn't the best vehicle to use as a daily driver.... Sold it.

Meanwhile, I picked up a 16' van body (box truck 'box') and was planning on what truck to get and ended up with an M939A2. I got it dirt cheap. I ended buying about $800 in aluminum that I'd need to finish the inside and close up the front and rear (Sliding door removed). I was going to insulate it as well.

Meanwhile the world has fallen apart around us, and the cost of insulation has balloned from $800-1200 to well over $3K.. putting that much time and effort into that box is a waste of time and money.

So, I'm now left with basically 2 options.....

1) A reefer van body. 6"+ insulation on all sides means I can pretty much heat it with a candle and my body heat in 30* weather. Downside is....you start doing the math on how much space that removes from the interior and I'm left with 7x15x6.5 (WxLxH) and I'm 6'2 so basically means I can't mount anything on the ceiling. The other issue is any wiring will have to be on the wall in conduit, which actually isn't a problem at all, but what is a problem is then mounting lights, antennas, and other necessary items to the exterior and finding secure ways to run wires to the interior without destroying half the insulation. Also a fiberglass body, which means can't really repair on the side of the road. The van body can be directly mounted to the frame. STD frame width.

2. A cut down conex or reefer. This presents its own issues as well. If it's a reefer we run right back into insulation being present and having to be worked around, but at least the box is metal... If it's a plain ISO box then I will have to insulate it but I can permanently install any lights, electrical,antenna, etc I need. Metal conducts temps so nowhere near as good insulation. It also means I have less money to spend on insulation because the walls are corrugated, which means I'm also going to get uneven insulation. A STD reefer (As opposed to a HC) has more height than the van body reefer. Then I run into issues of mounting. While the van body can mount directly, a conex cannot just be dropped on the frame without extensive modification.

I really do like metal boxes....and much prefer them for their durability and ease of labor for modifying/repairing. But each present their own challenges and benefits.

Thoughts?

Keep in mind, a reefer can be mostly air tight. That can cause you to take a deep slumber if you heat it or cook inside without a good ventilation source.

How about a box off a medium duty ambulance?

WillWagner said:

Keep in mind, a reefer can be mostly air tight. That can cause you to take a deep slumber if you heat it or cook inside without a good ventilation source.

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Already accounted for. I plan on multiple vents. The venting system will have both fan driven (through an air exchanger) and through filtration - I was hoping to have multiple smaller vents that are less visible, and fed via 2" or so PCV with bends so light doesn't escape. The air filtering material will also help with that. Basically 2 vents for 'normal' use. 2-4 vents that will create positive pressure that are heavily filtered - having been in wildfire zones - and in areas impacted by wildfire smoke even from wildfires 200+ miles away making it hard to breathe, filtration is pretty important to me. I also want to have the option to completely shut everything down and run on internal oxygen. Co2 levels will become dangerous well before I run out of oxygen. If my calculations are correct I'd be able to get about 8-12 hours before co2 concentration starts giving me headaches. This is so if I'm driving through an area impacted by wildfires, the living compartment won't be contaminated and smell like a chimney for the next 18 months.

Cab filtration will be near impossible so the options are an SCBA which is impractical due to cost, maintenance, storage space required) a MASSIVE GPFU in order to create positive pressure in the cab, which is not really gonna be possible due to how holy these cabs are and how expensive and cumbersome a system that large would be, or, what I actually plan on - a gas mask with a positive pressure attachment (basically a fan that pushes air through the filter to your mask instead of the filter being on the mask itself. Only downside to forced air is it pretty much cuts the usable filter time in half.


I basically want to be inside, with ZERO indication outside that someone is in there - even if listening to music, or cooking dinner.

Stove is going to be induction with propane backup - both vented through filtration to eliminate smoke/smells as best as possible.

DMax82 said:

How about a box off a medium duty ambulance?

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Not big enough and simultaneously ridiculously overbuilt without much room for modification.

For your cab positive displacement system, check these out. As for the systems, I know people that own all of the ones listed below, I do not have a system, you don't need it when you are in front! I DO have the SB particle separator system on my cars intake and I can tell you that it works. On a trip lasting 6 days, I used to have to clean the air filter daily, replaced it after 3 days. The filters are $50. a pop. Since installing this 6 years ago, have not needed to change the filter once. the air box is almost dust free and if removed for cleaning, it is hard to see any dust/dirt. I couldn't believe it at first, I went as far as getting black poster board and tapped the filter on the board. The only thing that came out after a week of running 8000 RPM and 500 miles were small bits of sand, and not too much of that!

WillWagner said:

For your cab positive displacement system, check these out. As for the systems, I know people that own all of the ones listed below, I do not have a system, you don't need it when you are in front! I DO have the SB particle separator system on my cars intake and I can tell you that it works. On a trip lasting 6 days, I used to have to clean the air filter daily, replaced it after 3 days. The filters are $50. a pop. Since installing this 6 years ago, have not needed to change the filter once. the air box is almost dust free and if removed for cleaning, it is hard to see any dust/dirt. I couldn't believe it at first, I went as far as getting black poster board and tapped the filter on the board. The only thing that came out after a week of running 8000 RPM and 500 miles were small bits of sand, and not too much of that!

Parker Pumper Helmet, Co.

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Air Pumper Systems

Take control of your air with this helmet air pumper systems. Increase air flow and eliminate dust. Perfect for desert racing and recreation uses.

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Helmet Pumper With Particle Separator Technology

S&B 76-6000 - With our Helmet Blower Particle Separator, you get the same great airflow to your helmet all day long because there is no filter to clog. Our helmet fresh air blower with Particle Separator technology removes 98% of the dust so there is no need for a filter.

sbfilters.com

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I already have gas masks, filters,, etc that will do much better than just a simple dust filter.

The positive pressure system add-ons for them are like $50. Thanks to Israel handing them out to their citizens like candy in the event of a chemical attack, they're readily available.

The particle separator looks interesting but dust/debris is a lot different than smoke from a wildfire, as an example.

One of the biggest disappointments with the military habs (AAR, etc) is the thermal bridging and poor insulation values.

A refer box would be an interesting start, IMO.

I originally wanted to go with an ambo box, but by the time you gut one you lose any rollover protection it included. You lose any pre-installed insulation (which is honestly pretty much crap slabs of pink fiber). And you lose the benefit of it being pre-wired (because most all of that has to come out as well).

One thing that flags in my mind about a refer box is having to run wiring. I've no clue if they are channeled with wire ducts or what. But I'd not worry about suffocation or ventilation. That's easy-peasy to address safely.

I've got it pretty good down here. It's always hot and I spend most all of my waking ours outside of the hab. I only have to cool it at night. And only have to heat it during the winter (ie: February). LOL