MEP 803 wont start

Hi, my MEP-803A won’t start. At first, I thought the issue was with the batteries since I only hear a click when trying to engage the starter. I fully charged the batteries, but the problem remains.


I was advised to try the Dead Crank function, and when I do, the engine cranks normally and I can hear the fuel pump ticking. The generator was last started about three months ago. I have also tried the battle short switch


Any suggestions on what to check next for troubleshooting?

2mas-

Is the Estop pushed in?

Also check other items on the control panel. Are all the other gages. lights etc. responding when you turn the switch to prime / run?
I assume you are not hearing the fuel pump running with the dead crank in the normal position and the S1 switch in Prime / Run?

Emergency stop is not pushed in, its pulled out. I checked the lights and the they and the meters works. When I turn to prime/run i hear fast «ticking» noise from the fuelpump.

So from the control panel everything seems normal except for a lack of cranking ability.
So that would point us towards the K2 cranking relay being GOOD because the dead crank works. That leaves switch S1, the K12 fault relay, K16 crank disconnect and possibly the S14 frequency trip switch as well.
You could also try using the battle short switch, I think you can bypass s14
I'd say next step is to look for 24V on pin 2,4,6 and 8 ( they are all tied together ) of S1 with the dead crank in the normal position, then look for 24v pin 7 of S1 when cranking.

What kind of S1 switch do you have. Post a picture of it.

As Ray posted: I'd say next step is to look for 24V on pin 2,4,6 and 8 ( they are all tied together ) of S1 with the dead crank in the normal position, then look for 24v pin 7 of S1 when cranking.

Just because the S17, (E-Stop) is pulled out, doesn't mean its good. TEST it. Than you know.

S1 in the run position. One lead of your DMM on ground, the other lead to both sides of S17. You need to see 24VDC on both sides.

10KW 803 No crank issue from the S1. When s1 in run, gages do something. OK, lets start:
The circuit is S1 pin 7 has Power in start goes thru a NC K12 contacts, then a set of NC K16 contacts, the S7 battle short which has to be off with red cover down to close contacts between pins 1 and 2 to the K2 relay which activates the starter. Grab a DMM. Use the chassis stud inside the control box as it is handy.
S1 testing- Dead crank to normal, S17 pulled out, CB1 pushed in; Power is measured at Pins 2,4,6,8. Yes, go On. No check backwards in the CKT mentioned at the beginning of S1 testing till issue found. (you stated gages do something so you should have power). Missing something on 2,4,6,8 like a jumper? A piece of wire works to fix missing jumper.

Going on: Gages working, S1 OK, Now go to S7 battle short switch pin 2. With DMM set to measure 24VDC, turn s1 to start. power there? Yes, check from S7 term 2 to K2 X1 or this thing is cranking. NO, OK then swap K12 with K19. Crank? Yes K 12 is suspect, NO swap K19 with K16. Crank? Let us know what happened....Schematics are in the TM section and on the door.

Use the colored DC circuit schematic created by another SS member ( I believe it is posted in the TM section ) the path from S1-7 to the starter , through the items mentioned above is clearly outlined, much easier to follow than the schematic on the gen. door.

Yes and it is also in the TM section to down load. Looks like mine attached