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MEP804A Run-Start Issues

SlateRidgeFarm

SlateRidgeFarm

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Hello everyone, Daniel here brand new to this group. While, New - very appreciative because behind the scenes I’ve been reading many individuals posts on how to get my MEP804A generator functioning properly. To keep this inquiry short and sweet I wanted to get anyone’s opinion on the master switch. It seems like others; I can only keep the unit on if I hold the switch in the run position. Now, by a simplistic diagnosis. This would illustrate to be the problem? What I am very perplexed about is the commentary and lack of factual evidence that the original or proper switch manufacturer is Electroswitch or Kraus & Naimer. Any and all help/suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Mullaney

Mullaney

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SlateRidgeFarm said:
Hello everyone, Daniel here brand new to this group. While, New - very appreciative because behind the scenes I’ve been reading many individuals posts on how to get my MEP804A generator functioning properly. To keep this inquiry short and sweet I wanted to get anyone’s opinion on the master switch. It seems like others; I can only keep the unit on if I hold the switch in the run position. Now, by a simplistic diagnosis. This would illustrate to be the problem? What I am very perplexed about is the commentary and lack of factual evidence that the original or proper switch manufacturer is Electroswitch or Kraus & Naimer. Any and all help/suggestions would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
.
Welcome to the Outfit!
Happy to have you here.
 
SlateRidgeFarm

SlateRidgeFarm

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I think one of my primary concerns and insecurity is that it looks like the blue one was put in the fact. Knowing how the government operates and the abnormal splicing of wiring, it intimidates me to switch back to the metal one.
 
Guyfang

Guyfang

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You need to understand, that unless a switch fails, it will not be replaced. The first two versions of the S1, (Mark 1 and Mark 2, the blue plastic type) do work. And as long as they do, there was no reason to order 15-20 thousand switches to replace every one in the military.

The changing out of an S1 switch is not rocket science. Takes about 15-20 min. on a bad day.

You wrote: I can only keep the unit on if I hold the switch in the run position. Please define what that means. Do you mean that the set stops running? Do you mean the set stops producing electricity?

There are about 20 different things that might be wrong, and the S1 is only one of them. Do not assume, test. Then you know. Have you download the TM's? Can you read a schematic? Do you have tools, and a DMM, (Multi-meter) is one tool you must have to troubleshoot this problem. Have you ever seen this gen set run right?

Before you run out and buy a new switch, you need to prove the one you have is broken.
 
SlateRidgeFarm

SlateRidgeFarm

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West Pawlet Vermont
Guyfan
Guyfang said:
You need to understand, that unless a switch fails, it will not be replaced. The first two versions of the S1, (Mark 1 and Mark 2, the blue plastic type) do work. And as long as they do, there was no reason to order 15-20 thousand switches to replace every one in the military.

The changing out of an S1 switch is not rocket science. Takes about 15-20 min. on a bad day.

You wrote: I can only keep the unit on if I hold the switch in the run position. Please define what that means. Do you mean that the set stops running? Do you mean the set stops producing electricity?

There are about 20 different things that might be wrong, and the S1 is only one of them. Do not assume, test. Then you know. Have you download the TM's? Can you read a schematic? Do you have tools, and a DMM, (Multi-meter) is one tool you must have to troubleshoot this problem. Have you ever seen this gen set run right?

Before you run out and buy a new switch, you need to prove the one you have is broken.
Click to expand...
Guyfang Sir thank you. To keep the generator running I need to keep my hand on the selector knob indicating run start. The moment I disengage from holding that switch, the generator completely shuts down. I do have some manuals that are downloaded from another source and have used that manual along with schematics and comprehend them Fairly well. I do own a multimeter and other tools to possibly troubleshoot the Genset.
And finally, the generator only ran once and produced electricity once without issue. And that was only one time and since then have been played with this issue.

I think what I have become complacent about is other threads that indicate that it is the switch that is malfunctioning. Nevertheless, in a perfect world – if I was handed a brand new switch, I would want to know which one should I put in?
 
M51clueless

M51clueless

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Daniel, I have 2 MEP804A’s I just bought off iron planet. Advertised as working, both with about 3 hrs on them. one of them has the same symptom you describe, would start but would not continue to run if I release the switch to the run position. In my fiddling with it I discovered that if I carefully released the switch (holding some pressure on it ) the generator would continue to run. After letting it run for an hour or so I found the switch has come back to life and now is functioning properly. Don’t know if yours will do the same but can’t hurt to try. Think most of my troubles are for this thing sitting for 15 years
 
M51clueless

M51clueless

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As for my situation, think I Was just lucky with my switch, my loose plan was to disassemble the switch and clean it. Not sure how far you can go getting them apart. If that didn’t work , was going to find a replacement. Course what Guyfang said there are a lot of things that will cause it to shut down, and what’s wrong could easily not be the switch itself.
 
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LuckeyD

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The attached is gonna help. They are available in the TM section. Now you say it runs as long as you hold the start switch n the start position. Release it to the run position it no longer wants to run. OK lets do the following tests:

1. Dead crank in normal, CB1 pushed in, F1 checked and OK. Turn the S1(start Switch) to run. You should see gages work. See if any faults show up on the fault panel. If so reset this puppy so they all go out and turn off the S1 and then back to run. No faults, All the gages doing something maybe, Battery, fuel, temp . Yes go on to 2; No, the S1 Pin 3 has no power. Check it to chassis ground for 24VDC with S1 in run. No Power you confirmed what all the members are saying, and this probably needs replaced but it is tested this way- battery power should be available to Pins 2,4,6,and 8. There are jumpers on there and if one is missing it won't work. Just check. OOPs one missing, Use a piece of wire to make that connection. Now give her a go. S1 schedule with 2,4,6,8 connected-Run you get power to Pin3, start power is at Pin 7, aux fuel is pin 5, and Pin1 works in preheat or in start. If your S1 is faulty on pin 3, you have to replace it. If you have a food freezer keeping food for 3,000 soldiers and no way to fix this for a week or 2 like several of us have had, grab a toggle switch, one piece of wire to pin 1 of the s1 and on the other side of the toggle put the wire that was on Pin 3. Now to stop the gen you got to flip the toggle switch off after the S1 is in off. Not gonna say how many of those S1 switches I took apart and fixed, but it is possible. Big table, lots of light, and take pictures as you go, one section at a time.

2. Lets go on if all gages are doing something and no faults show up on the fault panel. S1 off. Reach in after finding K19 and K12 and swap these. Now look at that blue A5 module. This thing works as long as battery B+ voltage is applied to Pin 3 as you start the thing. When you turn the S1 to Start several relays activate and K21 contacts close applying Voltage to Pin 3 allowing the A5 to start working and its holding contacts of K21 keeps it active. Power from the s1 goes thru a set of K12 contacts to those holding contacts. So either the s1 or the K12 may have an issue. The gen starts so the actuator, MPU, K15, K21, and CR4 are probably OK. With a DMM on Pin 3 to chassis you can see as you perform starting action 24VDC is on Pin 3 and if it dies as you release s1 to run the 24VDC goes away. Now if after swapping the K12 and K19 fixes your issue, the K12 is probably suspect. If the gen dies again now reach in and unplug the fault panel if your test of the S1 says you had power in run on pin 3. Give her a try. Now does it run? Let us know what happens....
 

Attachments

SlateRidgeFarm

SlateRidgeFarm

New member
7
3
3
Location
West Pawlet Vermont
LuckeyD said:
The attached is gonna help. They are available in the TM section. Now you say it runs as long as you hold the start switch n the start position. Release it to the run position it no longer wants to run. OK lets do the following tests:

1. Dead crank in normal, CB1 pushed in, F1 checked and OK. Turn the S1(start Switch) to run. You should see gages work. See if any faults show up on the fault panel. If so reset this puppy so they all go out and turn off the S1 and then back to run. No faults, All the gages doing something maybe, Battery, fuel, temp . Yes go on to 2; No, the S1 Pin 3 has no power. Check it to chassis ground for 24VDC with S1 in run. No Power you confirmed what all the members are saying, and this probably needs replaced but it is tested this way- battery power should be available to Pins 2,4,6,and 8. There are jumpers on there and if one is missing it won't work. Just check. OOPs one missing, Use a piece of wire to make that connection. Now give her a go. S1 schedule with 2,4,6,8 connected-Run you get power to Pin3, start power is at Pin 7, aux fuel is pin 5, and Pin1 works in preheat or in start. If your S1 is faulty on pin 3, you have to replace it. If you have a food freezer keeping food for 3,000 soldiers and no way to fix this for a week or 2 like several of us have had, grab a toggle switch, one piece of wire to pin 1 of the s1 and on the other side of the toggle put the wire that was on Pin 3. Now to stop the gen you got to flip the toggle switch off after the S1 is in off. Not gonna say how many of those S1 switches I took apart and fixed, but it is possible. Big table, lots of light, and take pictures as you go, one section at a time.

2. Lets go on if all gages are doing something and no faults show up on the fault panel. S1 off. Reach in after finding K19 and K12 and swap these. Now look at that blue A5 module. This thing works as long as battery B+ voltage is applied to Pin 3 as you start the thing. When you turn the S1 to Start several relays activate and K21 contacts close applying Voltage to Pin 3 allowing the A5 to start working and its holding contacts of K21 keeps it active. Power from the s1 goes thru a set of K12 contacts to those holding contacts. So either the s1 or the K12 may have an issue. The gen starts so the actuator, MPU, K15, K21, and CR4 are probably OK. With a DMM on Pin 3 to chassis you can see as you perform starting action 24VDC is on Pin 3 and if it dies as you release s1 to run the 24VDC goes away. Now if after swapping the K12 and K19 fixes your issue, the K12 is probably suspect. If the gen dies again now reach in and unplug the fault panel if your test of the S1 says you had power in run on pin 3. Give her a try. Now does it run? Let us know what happens....
Click to expand...
Okay give me some time to excite this and report back.
 
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