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drove it to work saturday and then took a 50-60 mile detour on the way home for the longest run by far i've taken it on and it behaved itself nicely, one hotter hub on the middle axle then the rest will get checked out as i mayve gotten it too tight when i serviced them during the mrap wheel...

always wondered what became of that after the show, if someone squirreled it away or fed it into the nearest shredder

did it, el-cheapo threaded body brake light switch from phartz stoor on a metal bracket screwed to the floor where the pedal arm can contact it, crimp on bullet connectors fit into the original plug so no modifications done to anything except a couple bit tip screws through the floor

all of them, got mine to 55 once on stock wheels and was wound up tight, now it cruises at 60 on 395s at around 2250

yea i need to do all 12 of my rod ends, not looking forward to it. welded plates across the ends in attempt to keep any from popping off till i can fix em properly, problem is whatever the centers are made from sucks to weld and booger welds aren't strong welds

yea mine decided to kick in at 45 mph in the interstate, the bucking kicked off a upper dogbone end but somehow didn't damage the drivers seat cushion, figured out what happened when i looked back and saw the marks the front tires made

musing around about a modern or at least less primitive turbo with the prime suspect being my hx-35 that got evicted from my 12v cummins by a turbonetics ball bearing unit, but this talk of e-brakes got me thinking of failed project i own, scored a perfectly good he351vgt from a common rail...

whats that tucked in above the spare?

safeish, helps contain the big pieces if it blows but not shrapnel, unless its also chained to something heavy flight is still possible. a clip on hose and plug the hose in around the corner is still preferred, so at worst you only hear it blow up

could always make C channel with 2 piece of angle and a flat plate per side if you are welding savvy

lubricating all of the moving points helps too, when i had my seat out to swap out the sprag for a airshift/vacuum the mouse crap out of the cab, i lubed it up good and the whole seat works much better

heard rumors someone was building one a few years ago but as it won't fit under my dodges hood i didn't pursue, if my multifuel takes a terminal dump a 12v cummins is totally going in

couple pic links to chain tracks http://www.goldenbellinc.com/track29.jpg http://www.eelriversteel.com/images/eel-trax.jpg my own grouser tracks the chain style would be easier and weigh less, these are a royal pain to reinstall even with the screw track jack i built due to the weight and...

i think those are 50/50 offset as opposed to the normal deep dish, my steel wheels, adapters, bead locks, tires and hardware scaled at 470# i put 1.5# of lead shot in each tire and so far it doesn't have any balance issues. the ride is better and the m109a3 bounce dropped a good 10 mph and is...

if the tandems stay at a pretty regular distance apart during articulation building grouser tracks like a skid steer uses would be fairly easy, if they travel apart more then a acceptable amount of slack can absorb the binding may damage the rear suspension, weak point would likely be kicking a...

are the lds 427 and lds 465 intake rocker arms the same? i am wanting some for my ldt

my 5.9 6bt likes the overflow valve tweaked to mid 30# of fuel pressure running down the interstate which at idle is upper 20s, seemed to be the sweet spot, assuming the 8.3 and its little bit differently configured version of the bosch p series pump this may be useful info, the spring can be...

all i could get around here was "the general" 800 and change for a year, i guess AAA is happy with just 4 of my vehicles as they've so far all but said get bent

i find the best way to find a custom charge is get the system running with all of the air flow you can get across the condenser and engine around operating speed (for a gas car with a hydraulic fan clutch id say 2k if the clutch will stay locked up at that speed, not sure with your remote...

planning on mounting my warn 18k in a similar way to shoot under the notch and plating the top for a standing area, but not planning on running a 2nd bumper, though it does look pretty mean, almost looks like a wrecker. i scored a cheap set of bumper extensions and garwood mounts for a reduction...