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The cable end kit came with an extraction and insertion tool for the pins. I haven't been able to figure out how the extraction too works, yet...
Sounds like your FWCM was faulty. If it was plug wires with bad connections, I don't think a new FWCM would have helped you.
I'm betting, based...
Actually, ours is MS3456W18-1S and those kits are MS3456L18-1s
I think that's a "class" difference. What that means as far as compatibility of the plugs/receptacles... I don't know. The body looks very similar to the one on the truck, aside from paintjob. The pins and sockets it comes with...
Using my multimeter to measure resistance:
One lead on the copper grounding connector coming out of the FWCM and the other lead on socket J (wire going to air light), resistance reads consistently over 125k ohms.
Same ground point, other probe on socket G, inconsistent results. resistance...
The plug (the part with the wires from the harness going into it) is serviceable, but you need the Jonard insertion and extraction tools. Which I found for about $45 and $49 apiece on allied elec. They come in three different sizes from largest to smallest: R12, R16, and R20.
Going to go...
I don't think I'm goinng to be able to dissasemble the cannon plug without damaging something. It doesn't appear to be made to take apart.
What I'm thinking about doing now is cutting the two wires that go from the FWCM to the Parking brake light and the low air light. Then splice a wire...
I think you may be onto something... but the problem is, I think, whatever connections have poor contact are probably inside the FWCM itself. I'll try cleaning the pins and sockets of that cannon plug tho to see if that helps at all. I did unplug it and plug it back in earlier, but that...
I looked again. It's on the diagram for the 939 and 939A1 trucks... but the 939a2 has it's own diagram.
For the 939 and 939A1s, wire 35 goes from Pine E on the FWCM to the Engine hot warning light. On the 939A2s, pin E is unused and no hot engine warning light is apparent.
I guess they got...
Check to see if there's a wire coming from the cannon plug on the FWCM that doesn't go anywhere. Wire #35 goes to the hot engine warning light, according to the diagram.
Well I was able to get the buzzer to come on... by tapping it's face on the FWCM.
Prior to that, I went out side to go run errands in town. Just for grins, I went and flipped the switches and lo and behold... the parking brake warning light came on. Steady flash. Cool.
45 minutes later...
Unfortunately, I haven't been able to get either of the lights to work at all. Not even briefly.
Electronics people... would it make sense for them to have put some auto-resetting circuit breakers to protect those lights inside the FWCM?
I am so tempted to go messing with my FWCM, but I've...
I haven't been able to get either my low air light or parking brake light to flash even once.
I have gotten the buzzer to sound for the low air and for the brake, but not very reliabily. That is to say, when it's working I can turn the buzzer on and off at will... until it stops working.
The...
I found a somewhat detailed wiring diagram for the entire truck in apendix H of the -24 manual but it's hard to follow on screen. Resolution is quite low. Volume 5 of the -23 (the 2012 updated version) has the same but with higher resolution.
Unfortunately... it doesn't show what's INSIDE...
I took my FWCM off, sanded down the copper grounding terminal and the sidewall of the cab and reinstalled it. And I was immediately able to get the low air buzzer to sound... but not the light.
So I taped together the leads that normally go to the air pressure switches to shut off the low...
Have you taken any of your FWCM's apart?
I'm wondering how user serviceable they are. The -24 does describe a little bit of multi-meter diagnostic involving the module.
eta: Here's how the system COULD work, and it could explain why some things are working when others are not. All...
Thanks, sounds like artisan had the same issue as myself.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?105024-Failsafe-Warning-Control-Module-Plug-Repair-Help&highlight=low+air+buzzer
I'm going to start by cleaning and re-seating every ground I can find.
With the tanks pressurized, each switch measures about 0.7 ohms resistance across the contacts. With the tanks drained, open or infinite. Which seems reasonable to me...
Buzzer worked briefly while I was testing this time then inexplicably turned off again.
I'm at a loss.
Thanks, but those appear to be the same manuals from 1998 I've been reading.
Looking again did give me a good reference for testing the switches themselves, tho. In the "activated" position (system at normal pressure), the resistance across the switch should be 300 ohms or less.
Granted, the...
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