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I've had it on the back burner. Hopefully have time this winter.

You sir, are an encyclopedia! Thank you!

Not specifically what -24P means, but reading through the TM it seems to be the parts diagram. The other TMs are operational and shop manuals. Am I correct? Thanks

Sorry, I thought I had downloaded all of the TMs. This one wasn't on the list. I found what you referred to exactly where you said. Thank You!

I am trying to find the NSN for the transformers in the static exciter board. I have the numbers on the parts themselves, but don't seem to be in proper format. I also thought the TM would have some specs for the transformers. I'm at a hurdle. In TM 9-6115-464-34, page 3-271, item #'s 24,36,45...

Yes, I didn't check resistance. That's the reading I got with the base as cathode. The part # being 1N1009R, I found to be a reverse diode. I did not remove them, which I could. Do I need to re coat the parts with anything when I'm done? Thank you much Doug

I did check the diodes and all 6 came in at an average of .42 for continuity. Having pierced the coating to make contact, do I need to re-coat or repair the coating? As I read the TM test procedure for the windings, I don't have the equipment, just a DMM. I will check the other transformers in...

😂😂😂 I'll dig into the exciters and diodes. The transformer that was over 400 deg was concerning to me, purely from a logic standpoint.

Are those temperatures abnormal?

I was testing some voltages this afternoon and checking some temperatures. The unit was running for approximately 10 minutes when the thermal temp was taken. My question is, is this cause or effect? On the larger trans. I got the following volt readings- H1 - 179V H2 - 181V X1 - 30.3V X2 -...

I'm going to have to show my ignorance at to where the static exciter or bobbins are. I was looking through the TM and cannot locate a decent image or schematic.

As I understand some of these basic electronic testing procedures, I am going to have to remove the capacitors from the board to test them? I also tested the new diodes and 3 of the 5 are not blocking current. I've also tested the three resistors on the board. I'll have to look for the values...

Nothing looks Correct, nothing looks burnt, no wires off or broken. I don't have access to anything like an exciter bobbin other than what's on the machine. My meter can check capacitance. I guess I should check that in the regulator? I'll pull the regulator and check components individually...

Yes. All the same voltage at the lugs regardless of S8 setting.

The only thing I can change the voltage with is engine speed. That's a nominal change at best. Setting engine speed to produce 60Hz makes 180+/- volts everywhere, except the voltmeter on the dash. That reads 180+/-with the volt/amp gauge to the right or 300+/- on the left.

No

180v regardless of s8 setting or lug.

I did in fact get the hertz adjusted via the throttle. It settled in around 60. I could at not get the voltage to change, other than if I sped the engine up, the voltage increased. I did (after shutting down) switch the voltage/phase switch to the left (416?) and the voltmeter registered around 300.

Well, we have good news and bad news. I put a couple of new batteries in the generator this afternoon and the engine fired up and ran flawlessly. The bad news is, after putting 5 new diodes in the voltage regulator, I'm still in the same boat. Although slightly less than before, I now get a...

They looked discolored and had some white powdery stuff coming out of the ends. With the voltage issues, this was the most logical component to repair first.