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Nice!
A wife that listens to what you say when you are telling her about your truck repairs... Hard to ask for more than that - and then she buys you truck parts too!! Better hang onto her for sure :)
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Yes! And working for a company with a blue logo and three letters in the name - it was incredibly cool to have the printer room deliver a skid of punch cards to your office. That same amount of information would be stored today on a small USB drive. I also remember when we got dot matrix...
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Those portables were really useful.
In later life, when the 286 motherboard had rolled over and died I did upgrades to several. I remember when the 486 and following that the Pentium (woooo!) boards and IDE hard drives made them into little screamers - that were "luggable lunchboxes" that...
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Yes Sir.
Button resets if there is a sudden pressure drop in the brake lines.
Opening the bleed screw rather than "cracking it open" - especially if you have a power bleeder setup will (could) set it off.
The wire does nothing but light up the bulb on the dash.
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Agreed. Proportioning Valve "saves your bacon" if the front OR rear brake lines (rubber or steel) are cut, broken, or yanked loose from the frame or axle. Brake performance is reduced - especially if it is the front brakes. After you make the needed repairs, pressing the little button under...
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Could be that the puller attached overnight with your version of Slick-em soaking overnight... Then tomorrow morning, bring a 3# hammer and give the screw on the puller one solid "love tap" and see what happens.
The rust has been there for a while. Save Up! More than likely it took years...
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Like royalflush55 said, you need something to break loose the rust.
That isn't going to just "pop" off the column. Puller that cucvrus recommended will work better for sure. If I were you, I would soak it with your favorite penetrating oil then attach the puller and tension it - and go...
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Under the door... Rocker Panel... I saw a thread somewhere here recently about making those repairs. Sheet metal bent to shape, then welded. Not something I know how to do but the thread was really interesting.
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Before you close up the rear gate / window and call that a job completed, it needs to be lubed. I have read several posts from @cucvrus mentioning proper lube and of course not forcing the hand crank. That way you won't be doing this same job again in a few months...
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Back in the day - they were just fine how it is. Now days, nobody knows what might happen to it as the raw metal it is now... If you decide to paint it, I would mask off the gear ring and the center where the flywheel is attached.
Seems like I remember POR15 Paint, so that is an idea too maybe?