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Thanks Bill, I thought mine could use a couple degrees more too. I will put the Vac gauge on it and give that a try. Back in my mechanic days, late 60's, I always found Detroit to be on the light side when it came to timing and always pushed the initial timing up above what specs called for.
Last week I started up the engine on my restoration project for the first time. When I set the timing, which right now is at 2 degrees BTDC, two things occured to me. First the pointer is so big it would seem that accurate setting is pretty tough to do based on looking at the pointer in...
Not sure if you solved your wiring issue yet. I had Vintage Wiring build a harness for my frame off restoration. Beautiful work and worth the money. Also a perfect fit. It was on the upper end for cost but I figured with all the other work I had I needed to farm out some of the more time...
Enjoyed reading all the comments. I guess I will put in my 2 cents now. I have about 30 some years of mechanical backround and have built a lot of engines. And yes that makes me also qualified as an old fart. Anytime a engine is boarderline and is put back together piecemeal the chances of...
All the previous info is spot on, especially for the gear lube. My personnal choice for engine oil is Valvoline 30wt or 10W30 racing oil. Has a high zinc content which is important when it comes to flat tappet engines. Going on my machine shop guys 411 since he builds a lot of engines for...
Call John at MW Military. He has rebuilts and I believe he just recently scored a bunch of used ones. He has kits too so if you are good at rebuilding keep yours as a spare. I keep both a carb and fuel pump on the shelf.
Just as a FYI. I picked mine up on ebay for a reasonable price, IE a little less than my welding guy was going to charge me to make them. But if anyone out there is interested I have a set of USMC drawings for the fabrication work to make them. It appears these were depot made additions, like...
Recently while rebuilding my front axle I noted it was evident that very little in any grease gets down into the lower bearing on the steering knuckle. It is also the place where any and all condensation or moisture seems to collect. To help eliminate this problem I drilled a hole in the lower...
I am in the process of rebuilding both third members on my baby (M37). My manual calls for 30 to 70 inch pounds on the pinion bearing preload. I have mine set on the button at 40. Even though this is in the middle of the spec range it seems like a lot compared to a lot of other drive axles I...
Rapid Syncro failure can be traced to the wrong lubricant being used. Make sure you use a lube with a GL4 classification. Amsoil also has products made for transmissions that have non ferrous metals in them. If you use high pressure lubricants with a GL5 rating expect problems.
Not sure what you did with your gas tank. Mine was in good shape but I had a process done to it by Gas Tank Renu. They coat the inside with a sealant and rhino coat the out side. Not cheap but life time warranty. John Bizal at Midwest Military also scored a couple nice tanks this fall so you...
Not sure about the top being GI. But it looks like you have good solid fenders. In most cases they are rotted out under the head lights. I found a set fro mine in AZ. But fenders are one of the few parts for M37's that are hard to come by.
Call John at Midwest Military (hit google to go to his web site). He scored a ton of M37 parts this fall. I have been dealing with him over the last year on my restoration and have also met him in person. He is a super guy and has a wealth of knowledge when it comes to HMV's. Tell him Larry...
I have used the suction pump myself (no fun) but if you have one of the quart size bottles and have the room you can cut the tip off and squeeze it in pretty quick and easy. You can also put that tip on a smaller bottle if space is an issue. I am doing a frame up (or off) restoration so I have...
Did a lot of reaserch on this subject for my M37. Also read a lot of stuff from the vintage muscle car guys. The simple answer with out all the chemical engineering stuff is this. If it has all steel parts inside GL5 lubricants are fine. So transfer cases, front and rear axles are all good...
I think I can find you some wire, I just got some from this gent. Google Hayes Otoupalik. He is a military collector / sales person. High quality stuff and has a lot of hard to get things. Prices are fair given the rarity of some items.