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reduce value immensely? Nope Reduce value a little bit? Maybe, depends on the buyer. A couple hundred in parts usually.

measure the diameter of the pulley. To me it looks too small, but without a good size reference we could be wrong.

if it hasn't been cranked over, then it can likely be torn down, thoroughly cleaned in a hot tank, and then reassembled with minimal new parts. If someone cranked it over, toss it and get a new one.

if it was me I'd do it from underneath the truck, aimed at the crankshaft pulley. That's pretty much the only thing that is guaranteed to be at crankshaft speed.

for the 101/116 series there are some people that claim they can tilt. They can sort of, but it wasn't designed for it and can break the frame if you do it just a little too much/too far. Definitely not recommended.

pulley size definitely affect it. The earlier trucks used a drive off the oil pump for the tach. With the turbo on there there is no room for that drive, so instead it takes a signal from the generator, and since that's belt drive, changing the pulley size affects how fast the generator spins...

The tach is a handheld unit. You just point the end at the moving object to see how many times per minute the shiny tape you put on it goes past. In this case you'd want something on the crankshaft, as that's the speed you are trying to determine. However, the added information that you have...

just to verify, what generator do you have in your truck? As the other thread said, if it's the 400 amp then it has a smaller pulley and will change what the tach reads.

the one he linked there just requires a shiny spot on a moving object in order to get it's RPMs. It comes with a strip of shiny tape. You put a piece of tape on one side of the rotating object, and every time it goes past a light from the tach gets reflected back at it. You'll likely have...

Good news, looks like we WILL be holding the rally this year, 3rd weekend of July, in the same place as usual in Winlock WA. Details will be in the PNW SS facecrook page

You can always replace the stock axle with one for electric brakes and run whatever tires the tow vehicle has. With smaller tires can also move the axle to above the springs. Or replace the axle and springs together for some lower ones and use smaller tires.

I suppose it could be the the transmission slipping somehow, but if it's really slipping that much it's probably already toast, and the smell of burnt transmission fluid should be pretty obvious when you pull out the dipstick. Once you hit lockup on the transmission there shouldn't be any...

This will sound a little rude, and I apologize if it does. Everything points towards the tachometer giving you a bad reading. This is the second thread you have started for your issue. The information we have to go off of is: You bought a truck with a hacked up wiring harness. the...

So how to verify any of this? Block the front tires, both in front of and behind, to keep it from rolling anywhere. Put the transmission into neutral. Can instead put the transfer case in neutral instead, but transmission is easier usually. Jack up one rear tire of your truck. Put a mark on...

Now you're talking about a differential gear ratio of about 5.05:1 A work truck will "feel" a different speed than a hmmwv. You're at different heights from the road, different viewing angles, different lots of things. A work truck built for the civilian market will have a lot different "feel"...

2nd gear with 40 inch tires would max out at 4000 rpms at 55mph. This sounds like where you were at. What did the RPMs read on your tach? doh, would be over max. How about this to check it out. Put the truck in first gear. Drive at 25mph. Your tach should read right about 3k rpms. Or do...

At the bottom of your posts there should be an "Edit" option right about here -----------VVVV

if the rear end is fried you aren't driving it anywhere. Either jack it up and rotate the wheels and count driveshaft rotations to figure out the gearing, or pull the differential out and pop the cover to check and count all the teeth on both the ring and the pinion to figure out the ratio...

the ECV/REV manual only has one part number each for ring and pinion.

manual wheel brakes for parking and keeping it from rolling. Nothing to do with the air system to my knowledge, just a mechanical parking brake same as the parking/emergency brake on any car. Nothing to do with tilting