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That I'm not sure of. I know from watching the manifold during filling that when the fans on the condenser kick on, the pressure drops, as the refrigerant is a gas in most of the system. Temp/pressure are directly related for gases. I couldn't tell you if it controls the compressor or not...

So the trucks that have these factory installed use the passenger side condenser for the AC built into the dash/heater core area. The driver's side unit is for a rear AC that sits between the rear seats on a 4 door truck. From what I can tell they are both run to a single compressor, so if you...

So I spent the extra money and installed a fender mount condenser. But that is because I treat my M1123 like it's made of Legos. I switch between 2 man pickup, 2 man troop carrier, 4 man helmet hardtop (tall version), and most recently it's been a 2 man with BEOD (Body, Explosive Ordnance...

I had the same thoughts, if you can't tell then likely something is wrong. Even running AC on high, having the BEOD (large box basically) on back of the truck, and towing a loaded DRASH type trailer at 65-70mph the fan comes on, runs a minute or so, then goes back off for a few minutes. If...

Going off what Katavic is asking, you can ONLY use 16.5" tires on 16.5" rims. DO NOT try putting them on any other rim size, as that is dangerous. I doubt you could find a shop willing to do it anyway due to liability. (16.5 is a 16" size, not a 17" anyway, just different bead and seating than...

If you buy a different type of rim, then you just go with tires that work with those rims. You don't HAVE to have any of the military wheel/tire stuff if you don't want to. With aftermarket rims you do NOT need any run flats, bead locks, bolts on the rim (unless they are made that way) or...

So you said 400 amp service, but a 150 amp inside sub panel (fed off a 200 amp breaker in the main panel) If you want to transfer the entire 400 amp service, yes, you need a 400 amp transfer. However if you just want to transfer the 150 amp sub panel, then a 200 amp could be used instead. Or...

I would say you should charge them up above 12.6 before doing a load test, as 12.3 is nearly a dead battery, but other than that I agree. 6 month warranty on the 6T is stupidly short, and if the manufacturer actually believed in their quality it would be at least a year or two full coverage and...

Most people say go with the 6T from NAPA if being cheap, or spend the big bucks on the 6TAGM. Reality is, as long as the CCA is above what the 6T is designated at, and has a decently large reserve capacity, you can use pretty much anything that will fit in the truck. Military likes huge...

When I first got my truck I tossed in an old pair of batteries just to move the thing around. 650CCA each I believe. During startup it would go up into the red for a little bit before settling back down where it is supposed to be. It stopped doing that when I put in new, higher capacity...

Not a problem. I actually do civilian generators for a living, primarily home standby units. Everyone has different goals for generators, so I get asked a lot about what generator to buy. Some people I recommend things like the little Champion 2800 dual fuel generator (propane or gasoline) if...

Military gen sets are made specifically as "prime power" units. What this means is they are made specifically to run for weeks or even months on end, with the only shut downs being for regular maintenance, which is a lot less frequent than one you can go down and pick up at the hardware store or...

Using Adobe reader makes it pretty easy, you just have to use the "find" function and type in the word you are looking for. It helps if you know the actual military name, but if you know a basic description or the name of a part in the assembly it narrows it down a lot.

if it's the 60 amp then adjust down your regulator to the proper voltage, and then recheck the batteries. If 100/200, then you likely need a new regulator. Do you have any 12V accessories tied to the batteries? Also, the forward battery tends to get more voltage than the rearward battery...

If you can't tell, I'm using this thread to write down all the various thoughts going through my head on the subject. I still don't know what I'm going to do or even if I will end up doing anything, but found this to be an interesting problem to work through and find possible solutions for...

So here are my current thoughts for going with an electric over hydraulic (EOH) brake actuator (or rather using two of them) I found that someone does actually make a brake controller that works with 24V electrical systems. Then discovered that the EOH actuator only requires 5 amps from the...

So to add some pictures and some more info/thoughts since looking at it closer. HMMWV wheels won't work on it, too much backspacing, and I'd rather not make the spindles stick out any further than they already are. The wiring input into the dolly is actually a commercial 7 pin round plug (not...

There are something like 2 self resetting breakers, and zero fuses. If the dash isn't working, then likely you have an issue with an electrical ground connection. It's common with these trucks to have bad connections. You have to basically just keep checking every connection until you find the...

A2 are vented rotors. The part numbers for them are the ones in the standard parts manual, not the ECV parts manual. None of the others will be in TM 9-2320-280-24P (books one and 2) Unless you have an ECV or REV truck then that's where the numbers would be.

Thank you for that, I hope you don't mind me borrowing it for this discussion (I did make sure to show where it came from)